or so I think. This was "unplugged", but I dont know where it needs to go.

Searched and found nothing

 

Thats the hose beside it.

 

That one connects to a pipe on the rats nest that leads to the top of the solenoid with a blue plug (second from the back), but it looks like your rats nest is gone, so just plug it. Anyway, a vacuum leak won't make the engine run at 4000 RPM, since it provides more air but not more fuel. Have you read my post in your "adjusting throttle linkage" post? Make sure your throttle cable is hooked up right and not holding the throttle open, and try to manualy push the throttle closed too and see if the RPMs drop.

Since the online FSM i down, I'll take a photo of the vacuum diagram in my Hayne's manual (Don't have a scanner <shruggs>), in case you need to track down any more vacuum lines.

 

I have the haynes manual

I still have my rats nest as well

i unscrewed the throttle cable from the metal holder on the carb, and it still starts up and runs its way to 4k

 

The hose that connects to the circled part is only about 4-5 inches long, and it looks to bend back towards the carb.

 

Oops, just realised your car is a 79, so my advise about vacuum line is worthless. The throttle linkage still works the same though. Does your car still have a 79 engine? Is it a manual or automatic? I need to know so I can send you the right diagram.

Edit: never mind, you have the manual. It doesn't show where the hose goes? Either way, a vacuum leak won't do that.

 

its a manual 79 rebuilt 12A.

 

i wouldnt mind if it started up and idled correctly, it would be good just to get it warmed up or something. I have a new carburetor and manifold coming in soon, so hopefully that will work.

 

OK. So you disconnect the throttle cable and it still idles high. Hmmm. Have you tried to manualy push the throttle closed? Your car does have a throttle opener so make sure that isn't holding it open. Check the dashpot too, if you have one. Obvious, but have you tried to just adjust the idle screw (not the mixture screw)?

 

You might also just try looking down the carb and seeing if the throttle is open to far or not.

 

I disconnect the throttle from its perch on the carb, yes. have never touched the screws ( too afraid to mess anything up, but, ta-daa!) and I will go check/take pics looking down on the carb.

 

Make sure the choke isn't engaged either. The choke has a fast idle linkage that can push the idle up about that high.

 

here is a pic down the carb, secondaries side. have to get new batteries for the camera. it looks like the secondaries are slightly open, but I am assuming that they are sopposted to be that way, for (cant think of proper termonology) suction effect?


Take a look at the gaskets on this carburetor! all hanging off to the sides.

word of advice, NEVER USE EBAY'S KEYSTER CARBURETOR REBUILD KITS

 

Hmmm. The secondaries should be fully closed at idle. They will be a little tilted but they will touch the edge of the bore all the way around. Can't tell much from the picture I'm afraid.

 

let me snag another one, i was holding a work light to get some visibility on it.

 

The best my cam will do...

 

Good pictures but you just can't see much above with a camera I suppose. For the engine to run as fast as it is, either the primaries or the secondaries must be slightly open, and I've gone through eveything I can think of that could do that. If you haven't already, read my post in "Adjusting throttle linkage" and take a good look at those return springs I mentioned becuase they can do strange things, and try the idle speed screw. It should be on the right side of the carb in the middle on your car and the idle mixture screw should be right below it. See if the idle speed screw can get the idle down to a normal speed.

 

I want to try the Idle speed screw, but I really dont want to run the rex at 4k rpm cold, ya know? I will do it, but only as a last resort. Reading your post now.

 

You could turn the speed screw out a few turns and take note of how many, than try to start it. I believe the idle on your car is lowered by turning the screw out.

 

yes i was going to say since u rebuilt it u may have changed the idel speed screw which will cause it to rev high also if the throttle cable is bolted up tight in stead of a lil slack or being firm

 

i got the car to idle at 2200rpm now, but i would never drive it. it looks like my crappy gaskets are leaking a tiny tiny bit of gas out the sides. not taking the chance of having a hot engine getting dripped on by gasoline..

 

if you need a rebuild kit for the carb go for the smp/hygrade{pn#1556} one its of fairly high quality and comes with pretty much everything but the floats

 

no offence but I reeeeeeeeeally dont want to rebuild this carb again :p

I am getting a new side draft and manifold soon anyways