Found a Cure for Wheel well rust!
04-05-06, 11:27 AM
#1
Found a Cure for Wheel well rust!
Its called stainless steel.......
The car was totally sandblasted, and any areas that need to get repaired are being done in stainless steel. I dont want to ever have to worry about anything again! Plus its MUCH MUCH thicker than factory stuff, so it should strengthen it nicely...
Last edited by JIMMY54; 04-05-06 at 11:36 AM.
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04-05-06, 04:12 PM
#9
Perfect circle, stainless material 175 canadian with tax plus
stainless welding wire was 100 bucks
welding gas was 80 bucks (used entire bottle)
It gets expensive using stainless, but I want this car to last.
Trochoid, I still have the blue car but this is the replacment shell. But no worries this car will look exactly like the blue car when finished. The only difference will be the larger brakes, painted spoiler, and fully polished turbo'd 6-port motor.
dj55b, If you are interested in something like this, it is possible. PM me and we could work something out. Hopefully your car isn't as bad as mine was!
stainless welding wire was 100 bucks
welding gas was 80 bucks (used entire bottle)
It gets expensive using stainless, but I want this car to last.
Trochoid, I still have the blue car but this is the replacment shell. But no worries this car will look exactly like the blue car when finished. The only difference will be the larger brakes, painted spoiler, and fully polished turbo'd 6-port motor.
dj55b, If you are interested in something like this, it is possible. PM me and we could work something out. Hopefully your car isn't as bad as mine was!
04-05-06, 06:13 PM
#12
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Looks nice! As always 
Just wondering how it will hold up, welding thick stainless to thin steel can create problems with penetration, to much on the steel and not enough on the stainless. Just a curious point.
Thick steel would last about as long after you undercoat everything.
Now where is it going to start rusting? hehe
Nice work though!
Just wondering how it will hold up, welding thick stainless to thin steel can create problems with penetration, to much on the steel and not enough on the stainless. Just a curious point.
Thick steel would last about as long after you undercoat everything.
Now where is it going to start rusting? hehe
Nice work though!
04-05-06, 07:33 PM
#14
Old [Sch|F]ool
STEEEEEEEVE! (I know you're going to read this thread)
We gotta finish your car this weekend, now, if I have to drive straight to your place on Friday and fabricate until it's time to leave for work Monday morning
BTW - Jimmy: What happened to the brace in front of the shock tower? That dealy is somewhat important, it translates the spring loading from the fairly weak floorpan to the incredibly overbuilt side panels.
We gotta finish your car this weekend, now, if I have to drive straight to your place on Friday and fabricate until it's time to leave for work Monday morning
BTW - Jimmy: What happened to the brace in front of the shock tower? That dealy is somewhat important, it translates the spring loading from the fairly weak floorpan to the incredibly overbuilt side panels.
04-06-06, 08:05 AM
#18
peejay, that support bar that I removed will be replaced with one made of tubular steel. You are totally right the car would flex big-time without that brace....
Max 7, I wish I knew what guage of stainless I'm using, It is slightly thicker than the factory sheet metal, but just that amount makes it so much harder to shape and cut. As for penetration on the welds, didn't have much problems, and it's welded on both sides just to be sure it's strong.
Now 100 years from now all you will find are my wheelwells in the middle of a field! LOL Everything else has rusted away. LOL
Rx440, Thanks for your help with the welding tips! For you guys that don't know him, he is a professional welder, that came by every so often. You can see his dinky escalade in the backround.
Max 7, I wish I knew what guage of stainless I'm using, It is slightly thicker than the factory sheet metal, but just that amount makes it so much harder to shape and cut. As for penetration on the welds, didn't have much problems, and it's welded on both sides just to be sure it's strong.
Now 100 years from now all you will find are my wheelwells in the middle of a field! LOL Everything else has rusted away. LOL
Rx440, Thanks for your help with the welding tips! For you guys that don't know him, he is a professional welder, that came by every so often. You can see his dinky escalade in the backround.
04-06-06, 08:12 AM
#19
For you guys thinking about welding...
I'm using a lincoln electric 3500 HD, It welds up to 5/16 thickness, with bottle attachment for stainless and aluminum. Perfect machine for all you guys at home. Works off your standard outlet plug.
Good for manifolds, IC pipeing, sheet metal, exhaust etc.
I'm using a lincoln electric 3500 HD, It welds up to 5/16 thickness, with bottle attachment for stainless and aluminum. Perfect machine for all you guys at home. Works off your standard outlet plug.
Good for manifolds, IC pipeing, sheet metal, exhaust etc.
04-06-06, 07:39 PM
#22
Old [Sch|F]ool
He didn't say how much he cut out.
On the driver's side of my GSL, imagine all of what he put in... gone. I screwed the interior vinyl to the coverplate to keep the wind from blowing it open.
Passenger side isn't much better.
On the driver's side of my GSL, imagine all of what he put in... gone.
I screwed the interior vinyl to the coverplate to keep the wind from blowing it open.Passenger side isn't much better.
04-06-06, 08:42 PM
#24
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nice!
Just wanted to ask if rust under the cowl, by the windshield wiper motor, was also a common problem?
I found some on my 80 and debating if I should even attempt to fix it, or put the bondo back over it...
Just wanted to ask if rust under the cowl, by the windshield wiper motor, was also a common problem?
I found some on my 80 and debating if I should even attempt to fix it, or put the bondo back over it...