1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

font rotor magically un-blew an apex

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Old 01-31-04 | 11:49 PM
  #26  
wwilliam54's Avatar
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it WILL run
 
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From: Raleigh,MS
Originally posted by bliffle
Geez, you guys. Just add 4 to 8 oz. of MMO to every tankful and it works fine.

B
i know why mine did what it did

carb was screwed up
running super super rich

i drove it like that waiting on my carb rebild kit

its amazing how fast carbon can biuld up
Old 02-01-04 | 04:59 AM
  #27  
peejay's Avatar
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From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
MMO LEAVES deposits when it burns. Just like ATF does. You do NOT want that stuff burning in your engine, any more than you want motor oil burning in your engine. Remove the OMP already and premix 2-cycle oil, which is something *designed* to be burned.

When I worked at Saturn we used some intensely strong decarbonizing agent as part of the regular maintenance schedule. It was so strong the engines would run like crap until they cleared out, and this was with cranking the engines with no spark plugs for ~10-15 seconds and then putting fresh plugs in. NARSTY stuff. Any GM dealer should have it.

I have heard many good things over in the Z community and from Larry Widmer over at Endyn called "Sea Foam", I guess NAPA sells it. (At least, the shop where i work has some listed in inventory and the supplier was NAPA) Supposed to be really strong stuff on par with the GM stuff.

In a pinch, you could use what i use - NAPA brand carb cleaner. THE strongest carb cleaner money can buy. Not as strong as the GM stuff, but it comes in a spraycan so it's easier to meter into the intake, and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I sprayed about half a bottle of this stuff into my engine while it was running at the track, because it was fouling the plugs while waiting in the shutdown lane because of continual SNAFUs at the timeslip booth causing heavy delays. (Nothing scarier than having some 3200lb Chevelle hitting 130mph, 1/4mi upstream from where you are parked in a traffic jam!) Just holding the throttle linkage open to about 2500-3000 and spraying down the carb one rotor at a time. Runs REALLY bad when spraying, massive black spooge cloud coming from the exhaust, but after doing this I puleld the plugs and they looked clean! But driving on the way home, the car lost compression at the gas station 1/2mi from the track. WOULD NOT idle, when shut down it had no compression. Popped some 2-cycle down the carb throats and we had compression again. STRONG stuff, that carb cleaner.
Old 02-01-04 | 12:40 PM
  #28  
wwilliam54's Avatar
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it WILL run
 
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Raleigh,MS
Originally posted by peejay
MMO LEAVES deposits when it burns. Just like ATF does. You do NOT want that stuff burning in your engine, any more than you want motor oil burning in your engine. Remove the OMP already and premix 2-cycle oil, which is something *designed* to be burned.

When I worked at Saturn we used some intensely strong decarbonizing agent as part of the regular maintenance schedule. It was so strong the engines would run like crap until they cleared out, and this was with cranking the engines with no spark plugs for ~10-15 seconds and then putting fresh plugs in. NARSTY stuff. Any GM dealer should have it.

I have heard many good things over in the Z community and from Larry Widmer over at Endyn called "Sea Foam", I guess NAPA sells it. (At least, the shop where i work has some listed in inventory and the supplier was NAPA) Supposed to be really strong stuff on par with the GM stuff.

In a pinch, you could use what i use - NAPA brand carb cleaner. THE strongest carb cleaner money can buy. Not as strong as the GM stuff, but it comes in a spraycan so it's easier to meter into the intake, and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I sprayed about half a bottle of this stuff into my engine while it was running at the track, because it was fouling the plugs while waiting in the shutdown lane because of continual SNAFUs at the timeslip booth causing heavy delays. (Nothing scarier than having some 3200lb Chevelle hitting 130mph, 1/4mi upstream from where you are parked in a traffic jam!) Just holding the throttle linkage open to about 2500-3000 and spraying down the carb one rotor at a time. Runs REALLY bad when spraying, massive black spooge cloud coming from the exhaust, but after doing this I puleld the plugs and they looked clean! But driving on the way home, the car lost compression at the gas station 1/2mi from the track. WOULD NOT idle, when shut down it had no compression. Popped some 2-cycle down the carb throats and we had compression again. STRONG stuff, that carb cleaner.
all right ill give the carb cleaner a try next weekend
btw I already premix
Old 02-01-04 | 01:01 PM
  #29  
peejay's Avatar
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From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Do you premix in addition to the OMP or is the OMP disabled?

You don't want both. Too much is as bad or worse than not enough.
Old 02-01-04 | 01:13 PM
  #30  
wwilliam54's Avatar
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it WILL run
 
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From: Raleigh,MS
Originally posted by peejay
Do you premix in addition to the OMP or is the OMP disabled?

You don't want both. Too much is as bad or worse than not enough.
no omp
Old 02-01-04 | 02:25 PM
  #31  
wwilliam54's Avatar
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it WILL run
 
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From: Raleigh,MS
ill post results next saturday
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