Ok --- dumb chicky here 1st time owner of a rotary engine----first car i owned very easy to work on--------not the case w/ my 84 rx7=====having issues w/ cold weather and getting car started---since i'm a rotary virgin/moron----- flooded bad------smoke out of tail pipe---strong gas smell----new battery----spark to plugs good(although they are gas fouled)----but not so sure of input of gas in carb is strong---kinda looks wimpy---unfortunately the only carbs im familiar w/ are SU CARBS from a 67 mg midget--- but assuming it should shoot strong---so not sure if fuel pump is ok at this point ----- but have been told--- something to the effect gas did something to one of the rotors -----but dont want to have problems flooding again----supposedly simple to fix the rotor problem (and is at the "spank ya hard or bend over and let me!@## you dealership)--- so i would appreciate is some could explain to me(dumb chicky) how for me to keep this from happening in cold weather---never had a problem at all as long as it stays above 70 degrees...plz be easy w/ me i know im an idiot!!!! lol

 

NEVER start the cold engine and shut it off before it warms up enough to drop the idle. This is the biggest reason for flooding. The coldstart (choke) adds extra fuel to the mixture which often washes off the oil film needed for the rotors to seal and build compression. If you flooded it horribly, you may want to change your oil. It'll be contaminated with fuel (sniff your dipstick). I'd like to hear what the dealership promised to do to keep it from flooding. I'd check the NE forum sticky for mechanics near you. You'll do better with one recommended by a fellow rotorhead.

 

As the previous response stated never start it then move it and shut if off.
Make sure you are using ngk plugs only, all ignition components are kept in excellent shape, our rx's eat caps and rotors. Cranking compression is a must, depending how cold it gets in your area, for winter i would recommend a 10w30.
You need to do a compression test, this is easily done with a conventional tester by removing the scrader valve and checking to see a consistancy from the 3 sides of the rotor, done on both front and rear housings, the rear is the one that fails the most on 1st gens. Always use the choke when starting, make sure you are using the oem spec temp thermostat so it comes up to operating temp quicker.
Put a strong fuel systme cleaner thru the tank, i recommend the 44k made by Bg products which is available at most dealerships or garages, not sold in retail stores. Runs about $22.00, but worth every penny. Only have to put in every 60k
or so. Run it with 1/2 tank or less until almost empty, whatever gunk is in the fuel system will be gone. Make sure that both ignitors are operating when it is first fired up, this is done by putting a timing light on the leading and checking for a signal then the trailing and doing the same. When you first start it does the tach operate immediately or does it take awhile before it starts to register? Keep us informed and remember you can do all this yourself. Keep us informed, rx7doctor

 

thank---you /ya'll are very kind----although i wont find out until Monday what the Mazda dealership has to say====although im kinda expectin them to tell me for some reason i need a carb rebuild also------dont know why just a feelin----- but this information has helped me a great deal once again thank-you==== as far as the tachometer--- it reads immediately at start up

 

Hmmm... Where in Virginia are you?

Lorton here... Also Alexandria, Springfield, Annandale, Dale City/Woodbridge/Occaquan, some parts of Fairfax... I've marked my terratory.

I've been told I'm a good teacher.

 

im located in the norfolk area of va

 

Ouch... That's kinda far of a drive.

 

I'll be in Springfield for Xmas.

Hey, do you still have the MG? Need an un-cracked head?

 

If you flood it really bad once your oil will contaminated and the fuel will be mixed in with the oil as well as being dumped from the carb so basically you are washing the walls of the chambers with gas, this essentially gives you low compression #'s and no fire, hence the fouled plugs (wet I am guessing). First things first, change your oil, DRAIN IT ALL replace the oil filter, and then inject some MMO into the spark plug holes. Rotate the motor by hand if need be to work the MMo into the chamber. Reinstall your plugs and attempt to fire it up.. You still may need to pull start it this first time, I would also recomend using a thicker wieght oil at this change like 20W50 or so.. Good luck and welcome to the Board.

trevor

 

maybe I should change my log on register to a female name! this is maybe the first time I have read a post about flooding, or ignition problems, and not sse the person get flamed for not using the search button

 

Ummm, Pele, what exactly that you are going to teach her? We are still talking about automotive mechanics here, right?

 

Well...

Gotta admit, it'd be a most excellent ice breaker.

Don't think that I'm still not considering a 3+ hr drive.

 

no unfortunately had to sell my baby --hubby died and had alot of bills to pay---i had custom designed hand made wooden panels for my baby to-----it was an awesome little 4 banger

 

they spanked me hard---------996.30-----fouled spark plugs------shutter valve-----air control valve-----can ya say GOTTCHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ARGGGGGGG

 

From another chick-On cold start:
1. Make sure your battery is up to par
2. Engage the choke fully (pull hard)
3. If it doesn’t start 3rd time wait at least 10 min before you try again
4. Once it starts don’t let it shut off (don’t move till it warms up-choke auto cuts off)
If your car is stock you shouldn’t have many problems. My modified beasts always were touchy in the cold.

BTW: Nice to have another girl to talk to here.

 

thanks====and yes cool that another chicky is here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

For that amount of money, i would of flown out there and fixed it and settled for
the air fare and a couple of home cooked Southern meals, lol. rx7doctor

 

what does it mean if your tach doesnt work when the car is cold?

 

Either very poor connections on the trailing ignitor terminals or the trailing ignitor
is malfunctioning. rx7doctor

 

I'll agree with the good doctor, except to add a distributor to the list of things that could be malfunctioning. My current daily driver's tach would work when cold at first, and ended up not working ever. Wasn't a big deal since I dont particularly pay attention to it, but when I swapped distributors the problem went away.

 

I believe Jeff20B was saying that it could also be the old grease on the tach needle making it stick. Does it go up and sit at say 2200 for awhile even though the engine is changing speeds? Mine does that and I just thought it was lack of lube. I may need to check the trailing ignitor if that is the case. Would that cause a more frequent flooding issue when cold as well?