NCross

iTrader: (18)

I'm replacing the rear axle bearings on the SA and want to make sure I don't miss anything being my first time pulling axle shafts.

I have the shafts out of the rear end and all cleaned up. As suspected the right bearing is toast. It free spins and makes a horrible noise. The left side seems ok, but it wouldn't make any sense not to replace both sides.

Just to be sure my parts list should be...
-bearings
-bearing retainers
-bearing seals

When reassembling would be a good idea to put anti-sieze on the splines or does it matter since its not aluminum? Does putting a floor jack under the center of the dif help in reinstalling the shafts?

Lastly... there is a spot on the left axle that is possible concern. I dont feel any grooves, but it looks to be worn in one 6-7" spot. Please reassure me that its ok.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Since everything is apart, I'd powder coat the backing plate.

I powder coat my on stuff and get my powder from Columbia Coatings in Tennessee.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

here are some tips.

1. make sure you put the backing plate on first! if you don't you get to change bearings again...

2. grind a V in the retainer, and then split it with a chisel.

3. the bearing will come off in the press.

4. make sure you don't loose the spacer!

5. make sure you put the backing plate on first!

6. the new bearing should be a light press fit, the retainer is what holds it on, that should be a tighter press fit.

7. the seal is in the housing, and unless you have a seal installer, its probably easiest to put the seal on the bearing and use the axle as the seal installer.

that worn looking spot is weird, but the shaft is only on the bearing and the splines, so that shouldn't be touching anything. an B the splines are in gear oil, so no need to put anything on them

LongDuck

FSM says, unless the oil seal is visibly damaged - don't change it. The likelihood of you damaging the new one on installation is high, and the old one - if undamaged - is already a known good part.

On the other stuff, the wear spot on that axle; you really need to check it for runout along it's length. The FSM allows for a bit of run-out, but that kind of wear down to the bare steel would indicate something making contact, and I'd want to check overall diameter at that section for consistency, along with the runout. Could be it was just balanced at the factory that way by grinding a high spot, and the gear oil preserved it all this time.

Hope for that last one to be the case.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

I think my noise has been the right side bearing. There is no perceptible vibration such as drive shaft or axle vibration. Well see when i get the axles back from the machine shop and put back in this weekend.

LongDuck

I'm going to be doing this job once it cools off in a few months. Already have the parts in hand; any pro-tips you can share or time savers? Thanks,

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Well... either in the process of removing the axles or pressing the bearings off/on the retaining plates have been bent and there is excessive play in and out of the differential housing with the axles. Another concern is that the left side axle slides inside the dif housing with zero resistance. This worries me. The right side had to be tapped in with a mallet and fits quite snug.

My issue I guess is should the axle just slip in and out like that?

My other issue is what can I do to remedy the bent retainer plates other than find "new" ones?

My instinct tells me to scrap these axles and find another set. OR to say to hell with it and swap to GSL rear.

djessence

I'll let someone else speak to the tightness of axle but ours have always been tight.

If your retainer plate is bent, I would make a new one out of plate steel. We had issues with bearings on our race RX7 and ended up making new 1/4" plate retainers. Our stock retainers had warped out (flush at bolt holes and pulled away around bearing from the housing).

NCross

iTrader: (18)

On the side with axle bearing play... either the axle bearing tolerance is off (bearing too small, manufacturing defect) or the differential bore where the axle bearing slides in is worn. I can grab the hub of the axle and quickly jerk it back and forth as if it were say shifting from 1st into reverse suddenly, and sometimes the bearing itself spins inside the differential bore with the axle instead of the axle spinning inside the bearing. If that makes sense.

I would be afraid of having a spun bearing on that side.

I really just think I'm going to convert to GSL rear.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Just wondering... is it ok to swap the axles out without putting new bearings on them? Say I find a good axle with no axle noise, pull those axles out, then put them straight into the dif that is on the car currently? Or is it a safety issue where the bearing tolerance is out of spec from pulling the shafts out and reinstalling them in a different housing?

If people do it all the time (which is what I'm asking) this would work out better for me time wise being I have already swapped the whole rear assembly out and bled the brakes and everything.