Not in a good way... the darn thing was running great. Went out to the garage started it and it did not idle right. Drove it home and it was leaking collant looks like around the lower spark plug closer to teh fir wall. Plenty of white smoke. Read up on some posts and it seems like it is rebuild or replace time....

Saw this out on ebay... would any of you serious rotary mechanics even consider this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...spagenameZWDVW

 

I wouldn't. The ad says it has been sitting for 20 years, and is locked up. Likely has nothing useable left to it.

 

Im not a serious mechanic but I would keep looking for anothe engine that looks like it would be pretty rusted and not worth the time dealling with. Just search the FS section for some one partying out a car.

 

You can't always count out the cars that have been sitting. Mine was sitting for 12 years and, aside from being a clusterfuck of problems, its great!

 

Did you look at that ad? The pic clearly shows a 12a shortblock, severly rusted.
A car that has been sitting can be rivived much easier than an engine that has been sitting open to the atmosphere for 20+ years.

 

OH JESUS CHRIST!

It looks like it was used as Satan's coffee table!

ITS A TRAP!

 

if it's been sitting out in the weather like that, it's a paperweight. even if it was in the car without the carb on it and was been pulled out of the car for this auction, i still wouldn't chance it. moisture has made it's way inside, rusting everything in site. keep searching.

 

Point taken... thanks....

Maybe I'll just use the procedures outlined for the block sealant stuff and see if that get me going for a while (just dont feel comfortable with patching it). wonder if that was what was done to it before I bought it a few months ago???

Also noticed someone else on the forum whose pulling their 12a and asking if anyone wants to buy it.... Just sent them an email.


If I'm not a mechanic, but I've done a decent amount of work on all my cars do you think swapping this engine is a crazy thing for me to do?

Otherwise... Does anyone know of any good shops in the Tampa area?

It's a sad day....

 

That eBay engine is no more than a $25 paper weight. It would be worth that for someone to practice/learn teardown and porting. If it is too rusted inside, it may not even be worth that.

 

Engine swap on these cars is not hard. Great car to cut your teeth on.

 

What about this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FULL-...spagenameZWDVW

Please let me know what you think I live close to this guy and I could pick it up asap, but I asked for the paperwork on the rebuild and he doesn't have any... Just dont want to get burned again...

This is the info I got

Make me an offer but i need a good price for this motor. Im sorry to say i dont have the receipt anymore. The motor was built be a guy in jacksonville tahts builds racing rotarys. The name of the shop was Driving Force. He is highly known and use to sell his motor on ebay. Thats where i got his number. Like i said the motor only has about 800 miles on it. The turbo was also just rebuilt at the same time as the motor by Time Turbos. Also did a very professional job. Let me know. I need to sell this motor.

 

Personally, I would prefer to see the engine in the car and running. It looks like a homemade blowthough turbo setup, with very few details given. Find out what carb it is running, specs on jetting and turbo, was it dyno tuned, or has it even had it's final tune after break-in.

I'm not sure if I buy the idea that he needs money for another motor. I suspect he is disappointed in the results of this one. Also ask if the entire fuel system comes with it. Blow through turbos can be tricky to set up, not usually a good place to start for a first timer/beginner/learner.

Find out all of the details about the build, which parts were replaced and what mods/upgrades were done to handle boost. Pin him down on what his breakin proceedure was. Do a compression test and see if you can talk to the builder.

 

Thanks.... just copied your questions in an email to him, and will wait for a response.

 

Don't blow though set ups usually push boost through the carb from the top?

 

It appears to be a drawthrough setup, look at the closeup of the side of the carb.

 

Asked the questions you guided me to, and got this for an answer....

The motor was put together with all brand new seals and gaskets. Low compression rotors were used. The carb is stock with stcok jetting and it was never dyno tuned. i dont really have a way to compression test it cause its out of car.

Sounds like there are too many unknowns to go forward with this one?

I'll continue to look. Thanks.