Finally, an OMP solution!!
#1
Finally, an OMP solution!!
Right then - I've found places that build the adaptors which allow you to run the stock OMP with a seperate oil resevoir. But at $80 (plus import tax to UK) is a tad more than I was hoping.
SO, My solution is thus:
I'm converting the OMP to accept a resevoir. This involves capping off the original oil inlet, and either drilling a hole into the side of the casing to hi-jack the original feed line, or (preferably) put a new feed line in whichever *end the oil first comes out of
*the caps on either end of the OMP
I'll be dismantling my OMP tomorrow and using water to check where the oil flows, then begin the modifications, I'll keep you all updated.
P.S: All the modifications will be done using simple tools, and simple parts. Mainly to make it easy to copy, but also because I'm cheap like that
SO, My solution is thus:
I'm converting the OMP to accept a resevoir. This involves capping off the original oil inlet, and either drilling a hole into the side of the casing to hi-jack the original feed line, or (preferably) put a new feed line in whichever *end the oil first comes out of
*the caps on either end of the OMP
I'll be dismantling my OMP tomorrow and using water to check where the oil flows, then begin the modifications, I'll keep you all updated.
P.S: All the modifications will be done using simple tools, and simple parts. Mainly to make it easy to copy, but also because I'm cheap like that
#2
That would be the one sold by Richard Sohn via rotaryaviation. I've been running one on my otherwise stock 12A-powered '85 GSL since March of this year. The unit works fine and was definitely worth the price of admission, even in our worthless Canadian pezos.
One caveat though--- do not use plastic reserviors like those used for washer-fluid containers. the oil eats them, as well as any glues you might use to attach a fitting onto the bottom of the container. Instead, use a power-steering fluid reservior or other small tank that's impervious to oil. If you go with the power steering unit it will be necessary to clamp a short length of neoprene hose to the larger outlet and then plug the other end of this short length of hose with a large bolt and clamp. Other plugs tend to either get eaten by the oil or leak. Use neoprene fuel hose to route the oil to the omp and you should be ok. Finally, be sure to mount the reservior so that the lowest level of oil in it is at least six inches above the level of the metering pump for better gravity feed.
If your car has the carbureted 12A this system is excellent. Unlike the fuel-injected models, the oil from the metering system is pre-mixed in the float bowls for much better distribution, lubrication, and burning.
Do keep us posted with regard to how your custom solution works out. I'm sure there are others who would like to try this.
One caveat though--- do not use plastic reserviors like those used for washer-fluid containers. the oil eats them, as well as any glues you might use to attach a fitting onto the bottom of the container. Instead, use a power-steering fluid reservior or other small tank that's impervious to oil. If you go with the power steering unit it will be necessary to clamp a short length of neoprene hose to the larger outlet and then plug the other end of this short length of hose with a large bolt and clamp. Other plugs tend to either get eaten by the oil or leak. Use neoprene fuel hose to route the oil to the omp and you should be ok. Finally, be sure to mount the reservior so that the lowest level of oil in it is at least six inches above the level of the metering pump for better gravity feed.
If your car has the carbureted 12A this system is excellent. Unlike the fuel-injected models, the oil from the metering system is pre-mixed in the float bowls for much better distribution, lubrication, and burning.
Do keep us posted with regard to how your custom solution works out. I'm sure there are others who would like to try this.
#4
I'd probalby just kee forgetting to put teh oil in the tank - so pre-mix is a big no no for me.
The resevoir I'm using is a tin 2L Stella Artois "Keg" (why not?)
And after that (pretty vital!) advice I'm going to use epoxy resin to seal all the joins. But I'm using copper piping (like used on the brake lines) for the majority of the oil-run, only using flexable joins on the ends
The resevoir I'm using is a tin 2L Stella Artois "Keg" (why not?)
And after that (pretty vital!) advice I'm going to use epoxy resin to seal all the joins. But I'm using copper piping (like used on the brake lines) for the majority of the oil-run, only using flexable joins on the ends
#5
Right then.
Finally got round to buying some white spirit to clean my OMP. Didn't realise it could get that clean!!
But back to the original subject, After carefull inspection, I found that the end plate which is right next to the adjustment arm is where the oil is fed into.
So all I have to do is seal off the inlet with some epoxy resin, and tap an inlet into the side plate. I'm using a screw-in adaptor used for RC planes, it has approximately the same ID as the OE oil inlet.
I'm going to be testing some rubber tubing I have to see if that will withstand solvents - I think it's the hosing used for the rear screen washer. I that works, then that's even less money I have to spend!!
################################
So here are the instructions on how to modify your OMP to run off a remote resevoir:
1 remove the two bolts holding the OMP on, remove the oil pipes, and then the linkage arm to the carb.
2 carefully remove the OMP and give it a good clean in either oil, white spirits, or fuel (not diesel!)
3 Remove the end plate closest to the Movable arm. It's held on with two small screws. If (like mine) the screws are rusted to hell and no longer have any *usable* heads, a pair of pliers will help you undo them.
4 Get a screw-in hose attatchment. This has a small amount of thread on it, then a nut shape middle, with a small tube with a "bellow" on the end. This is what the oil resevoir will connect up to, so it's best to get one with a hole close enough to the size of the small rectangle next to the external shaft (the one which slots into the engine).
5 Drill a small hole just a bit smaller than the attatchment, into the metal cover you removed earlier. Now tap it to the required size and fit the attatchment.
6 Get some resin and put a small amount into that rectangular hole I described earlier - it needs to be completely blocked off, but not go into the main chamber (you need that stuff to move!). Leave it to set, then pour a small amount of oil into the OMP before replacing the cover.
Now for the resevoir
7 find a 1L - 2L metal container which is watertight and has a removable lid. I'm using a "stella Artois" 2L beer Keg.
8 Drill a hole and tap it to accept another one of those adaptors into the bottom of the container.
9 Drill a small hole into the top of the container. This is need so you don't get a pressurised container, which means the oil won't flow. I'm using a small K&N breather-filter over the hole, but you don't need to use anything really.
10 Re-intall the OMP and remeber to use new gaskets
11 Now figure out a way to mount the container at least 6" above the OMP inside the engine bay, then connect the resevoir to the OMP using some hosing which won't decay from the oil (neoprene hosing and the such)
And that's it! Prime the system with whatever oil you're using and make sure to keep it topped up. As an extra safegaurd, I'm fitting an oil level sensor to my resevoir to tell me when it's almost empty - but then again, your memory might be better than mine!!!
Hope this all helps
P.S: I would post pictures, but I don't have a diggi
Finally got round to buying some white spirit to clean my OMP. Didn't realise it could get that clean!!
But back to the original subject, After carefull inspection, I found that the end plate which is right next to the adjustment arm is where the oil is fed into.
So all I have to do is seal off the inlet with some epoxy resin, and tap an inlet into the side plate. I'm using a screw-in adaptor used for RC planes, it has approximately the same ID as the OE oil inlet.
I'm going to be testing some rubber tubing I have to see if that will withstand solvents - I think it's the hosing used for the rear screen washer. I that works, then that's even less money I have to spend!!
################################
So here are the instructions on how to modify your OMP to run off a remote resevoir:
1 remove the two bolts holding the OMP on, remove the oil pipes, and then the linkage arm to the carb.
2 carefully remove the OMP and give it a good clean in either oil, white spirits, or fuel (not diesel!)
3 Remove the end plate closest to the Movable arm. It's held on with two small screws. If (like mine) the screws are rusted to hell and no longer have any *usable* heads, a pair of pliers will help you undo them.
4 Get a screw-in hose attatchment. This has a small amount of thread on it, then a nut shape middle, with a small tube with a "bellow" on the end. This is what the oil resevoir will connect up to, so it's best to get one with a hole close enough to the size of the small rectangle next to the external shaft (the one which slots into the engine).
5 Drill a small hole just a bit smaller than the attatchment, into the metal cover you removed earlier. Now tap it to the required size and fit the attatchment.
6 Get some resin and put a small amount into that rectangular hole I described earlier - it needs to be completely blocked off, but not go into the main chamber (you need that stuff to move!). Leave it to set, then pour a small amount of oil into the OMP before replacing the cover.
Now for the resevoir
7 find a 1L - 2L metal container which is watertight and has a removable lid. I'm using a "stella Artois" 2L beer Keg.
8 Drill a hole and tap it to accept another one of those adaptors into the bottom of the container.
9 Drill a small hole into the top of the container. This is need so you don't get a pressurised container, which means the oil won't flow. I'm using a small K&N breather-filter over the hole, but you don't need to use anything really.
10 Re-intall the OMP and remeber to use new gaskets
11 Now figure out a way to mount the container at least 6" above the OMP inside the engine bay, then connect the resevoir to the OMP using some hosing which won't decay from the oil (neoprene hosing and the such)
And that's it! Prime the system with whatever oil you're using and make sure to keep it topped up. As an extra safegaurd, I'm fitting an oil level sensor to my resevoir to tell me when it's almost empty - but then again, your memory might be better than mine!!!
Hope this all helps
P.S: I would post pictures, but I don't have a diggi
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#9
as he said he has an oil level sensor....try reading the whole thread from the top before firing the already answered questions!
good job chairchild....what kind of oil level sensor did u use? this will definately be a good project for a weekend!
good job chairchild....what kind of oil level sensor did u use? this will definately be a good project for a weekend!
#13
Originally posted by chairchild
The resevoir I'm using is a tin 2L Stella Artois "Keg" (why not?)
The resevoir I'm using is a tin 2L Stella Artois "Keg" (why not?)
Anyway, these kind of DIY "conversions" have been done for a while now. The Dutch RX7 club had a describtion on how to do it in on of their lates magazines, and the NSU drivers are doing it for years.
I'm going to see how to do it with my car aswell, I'll have a look this winter.
#14
For the resavoir...I know you've already got your setup, just for those who may take on this project...in MKIII supras (and IV's I believe) the overflow resavoir has a built in level sensor...easy hook up, using one as a fuel level sensor on a small engine...something to think about.
#19
Sorry, as I said, I don't have a diggi
But it's not much to look at - it's just a black tube sticking out of the OMP at the moment
I havn't yet made the resevoir - so I don't have the exact details on it. But I'm planning on using an oil sensor from a car out of a scrap-yard. I'll use whatever comes off easiest!!
They (normally) give an on/off output, so a bulb on the dash will tell me when it's low - best make sure it's a bright one!!
Yup, and I'm even thinking about adding a tiny amount of carb cleaner to the resevoir to get the engine clean at the same time as lubricating it. I know I should just stick it in the fuel tank - but I want to use my mod (But hey, it's going in a beetle anyway!)
But it's not much to look at - it's just a black tube sticking out of the OMP at the moment
I havn't yet made the resevoir - so I don't have the exact details on it. But I'm planning on using an oil sensor from a car out of a scrap-yard. I'll use whatever comes off easiest!!
They (normally) give an on/off output, so a bulb on the dash will tell me when it's low - best make sure it's a bright one!!
this means u can use any kind of oil for the motor without having any fear of it not burning well or watever
#21
I was thinking of the stock oil level sensor in my 85's.
It has a light in the idiot cluster.
Get a spare sensor and find a spot to put a light or buzzer or somthing...
It has a light in the idiot cluster.
Get a spare sensor and find a spot to put a light or buzzer or somthing...
Originally posted by Mr BiG G
smnc....does the oil level sensor have like a warning light or something u mount in the cabin or is the output in the form of a gauge?
smnc....does the oil level sensor have like a warning light or something u mount in the cabin or is the output in the form of a gauge?
#23
Originally posted by Aviator 902S
If your car has the carbureted 12A this system is excellent. Unlike the fuel-injected models, the oil from the metering system is pre-mixed in the float bowls for much better distribution, lubrication, and burning.
If your car has the carbureted 12A this system is excellent. Unlike the fuel-injected models, the oil from the metering system is pre-mixed in the float bowls for much better distribution, lubrication, and burning.
#24
Originally posted by Makenzie71
Or you could get the sensor and splice into the stock wiring. Run the two sensors in parallel that way it will light up the stock idiot light...regardless of which oil level it's reading.
Or you could get the sensor and splice into the stock wiring. Run the two sensors in parallel that way it will light up the stock idiot light...regardless of which oil level it's reading.
#25
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Hook the sensor to the relay and the relay to the fuel pump... No oil and your car goes nowhere. Fool proof way to stop you from forgetting, because remember: Marijuana affects the memory.