Finally got it....
01-19-06, 07:48 AM
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Finally got it....
Here's the 81 that my friend gave me. Last insp sticker on it is from 89....He said the last time he ran in..about 10 years ago...he had to dump fuel into it, to keep it running....into the carb that is.....must have a bad fuel pump.
got it for free....gonna start on it shortly....cannot wait.....gotta find a sunroof thought....it is rusted!!
Heres a photo before towing it home....
got it for free....gonna start on it shortly....cannot wait.....gotta find a sunroof thought....it is rusted!!
Heres a photo before towing it home....
01-19-06, 10:45 AM
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definitly a good thing...it is soo much easier to find things for a gsl-se that anything else and generally they come pretty well with all dealer options...disc all around...13b motor which is awesome...nothing like a massive 13btt monster...sunroof...well all I can say is go glass...I have the limited edition sunroof factory bronze tinted and I love it!...you'll love your car...and treat her right and she'll...well she'll do the best she can until you do a complete rebuild...top to bottom but that takes time...
01-19-06, 11:03 AM
#5
^^^ He said GSL not GSL-SE
So a GSL comes with Disc brakes on all four corners and you get a limited-slip differential (lsd). Othere than that the only other diffferences would be maybe leather interior(optional) and power windows and maybe upgradded stereo. By the Way you have a 12a. Nice find and good luck with your new 7
So a GSL comes with Disc brakes on all four corners and you get a limited-slip differential (lsd). Othere than that the only other diffferences would be maybe leather interior(optional) and power windows and maybe upgradded stereo. By the Way you have a 12a. Nice find and good luck with your new 7
01-19-06, 11:30 AM
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thanks very much!!...Yeah, it is loaded on options. Everything!!!
I noticed the interior is "MINT"...not a mark anywhere!
I will go glass on the roof, it is too rusted to mess with.
I have read for the last two hours through the FAQ'S.....This site is great.....
I am a bit confused still on what oil, and what to do with the gas in the tank...I rwad you mix the gas with oil?....i guess 20w50 for the motor?
I am glad she only has 70k on it, but still will be cautious before starting her up. I found one thing odd. I popped the air cleaner off. And there is a 4 barrel on it?....Looked kinda large for a small engine. I was a mechanic for 16 years, but never go to work on a rotary car before. Carb looks large....i gotta see why the fuel isn't getting to the front to keep it running as he said before giving me the car. Probably fuel pump....
I noticed the interior is "MINT"...not a mark anywhere!
I will go glass on the roof, it is too rusted to mess with.
I have read for the last two hours through the FAQ'S.....This site is great.....
I am a bit confused still on what oil, and what to do with the gas in the tank...I rwad you mix the gas with oil?....i guess 20w50 for the motor?
I am glad she only has 70k on it, but still will be cautious before starting her up. I found one thing odd. I popped the air cleaner off. And there is a 4 barrel on it?....Looked kinda large for a small engine. I was a mechanic for 16 years, but never go to work on a rotary car before. Carb looks large....i gotta see why the fuel isn't getting to the front to keep it running as he said before giving me the car. Probably fuel pump....
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01-19-06, 01:14 PM
#8
Drain the gas out of the tank and you probably need to clean out the gas tank it might be filled with rust after sitting for so long and change your fuel filter. if you see a lot of debry in the gas when you drain it you might want to try and flush your fuel lines some how. or even replace them.
01-19-06, 01:17 PM
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Thanks...thats a definate!...I think I saw a bolt un the tank,,but I may be wrong!
i won't dare try to start this motor, until I have done everything right. It has 70k on it, I don't know what the rotarys get on mileage, but should get some more miles if I do it right I suppose.
theres a big holley on it,,,and......There's a funny looking muffler on it also. Just bare with me. I do know cars....but this is my first rx7.....
i won't dare try to start this motor, until I have done everything right. It has 70k on it, I don't know what the rotarys get on mileage, but should get some more miles if I do it right I suppose.
theres a big holley on it,,,and......There's a funny looking muffler on it also. Just bare with me. I do know cars....but this is my first rx7.....
01-19-06, 06:36 PM
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oh, I take it the 4 barrel is an upgrade?. i know theres one on there, just thought maybe they had a stock carb like that....I cannot get this car off of my mind. i wish the weather would warm up a bit...I have a 12 by 12 shop, but have to put the car in front of it, and work outside. Wished it fit inside!
01-19-06, 07:15 PM
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These cars came bone stock with a 4-barrel carb--- a Nikki 4-barrel (Japanese), not a Holley. But some owners have retrofitted Holleys on them.
Does your carb have the blue Mazda air filter housing mounted on top of it? Does this carb also have a veritable "rats nest" of vacuum tubes going into it? If so, you have the stock Nikki carb, not a Holley.
BTW, before you sink too much money into this car, unscrew and remove the plastic storage bins located behind the seats. Then inspect the area under the bins for rust. If the rust here hasn't progressed too far it may be repairable. You'll need to bead-blast all of this rust into oblivion, both inside the car and on the outside in the rear wheel wells. In fact, remove all rust on and under the car and then prime with a 2-part epoxy primer. Rust dines on these cars and hides very well--- by the time you discover it you may find that it's progressed too far and that the car is B.E.R.: "Beyond Economic Repair."
This is not meant to scare you or rain on your party, honest. In fact, if the rest of the car is in as sound shape as the interior you've definitely lucked out. But pristine examples of this model and option package can be had for between $2500 and $3000. Even if you do all of the work yourself you could be looking at the following:
Paint, primer, equipment rental and body work supplies: $1000+.
New tires: $400.
Engine rebuild kit: $1000+
Glass moonroof panel: $100 to $300.
New clutch assembly (may as well, since you've pulled the engine): $150
New rims: (to better go with that new paint job and tires): $800.
New stereo (the old one is AM/FM/cassette): $500+
Total: Almost $4000. Not to mention your time and effort. To pay someone else to do the work for you would double this figure. This also assumes that there are no expensive surprises.
If you enjoy restoring cars, there's something to be said for the pride and sense of accomplishment that comes from being able to say "I rebuilt it myself." It's an intangible that can't be measured in mere dollars.
But if you'd rather just drive it than work on it, and you're planning to spend 3k in repairs over the next few weeks or months, it's probably better to just spend that 3k on a mint example--- one that someone else already lost their shirt on restoration costs and now just wants to sell it. Then keep your current one as a parts car.
Does your carb have the blue Mazda air filter housing mounted on top of it? Does this carb also have a veritable "rats nest" of vacuum tubes going into it? If so, you have the stock Nikki carb, not a Holley.
BTW, before you sink too much money into this car, unscrew and remove the plastic storage bins located behind the seats. Then inspect the area under the bins for rust. If the rust here hasn't progressed too far it may be repairable. You'll need to bead-blast all of this rust into oblivion, both inside the car and on the outside in the rear wheel wells. In fact, remove all rust on and under the car and then prime with a 2-part epoxy primer. Rust dines on these cars and hides very well--- by the time you discover it you may find that it's progressed too far and that the car is B.E.R.: "Beyond Economic Repair."
This is not meant to scare you or rain on your party, honest. In fact, if the rest of the car is in as sound shape as the interior you've definitely lucked out. But pristine examples of this model and option package can be had for between $2500 and $3000. Even if you do all of the work yourself you could be looking at the following:
Paint, primer, equipment rental and body work supplies: $1000+.
New tires: $400.
Engine rebuild kit: $1000+
Glass moonroof panel: $100 to $300.
New clutch assembly (may as well, since you've pulled the engine): $150
New rims: (to better go with that new paint job and tires): $800.
New stereo (the old one is AM/FM/cassette): $500+
Total: Almost $4000. Not to mention your time and effort. To pay someone else to do the work for you would double this figure. This also assumes that there are no expensive surprises.
If you enjoy restoring cars, there's something to be said for the pride and sense of accomplishment that comes from being able to say "I rebuilt it myself." It's an intangible that can't be measured in mere dollars.
But if you'd rather just drive it than work on it, and you're planning to spend 3k in repairs over the next few weeks or months, it's probably better to just spend that 3k on a mint example--- one that someone else already lost their shirt on restoration costs and now just wants to sell it. Then keep your current one as a parts car.
Last edited by Aviator 902S; 01-19-06 at 07:21 PM.
01-19-06, 07:51 PM
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thanks very much for the tips....I will check those areas for rust, now ya got me wondering...LOL
I will check the carb better tomorrow, and for the rats nest...Thanks for the help, and advise...I do appreciate it much!
I will check the carb better tomorrow, and for the rats nest...Thanks for the help, and advise...I do appreciate it much!
01-19-06, 07:52 PM
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Yer welcome.
As for your suspicion that the fuel pump may be bad, turn the key to the "on" position. (not the "start" position. This also assumes you have a good battery).
You should be able to hear the electric fuel pump humming. It's located under the car on the drivers' side and just forward of the fuel tank. One thing that will need to be changed (besides the fuel in the tank and possibly the tank and fuel lines) is the fuel filter. It's an in-line type filter (about $3) and it's located just aft of the fuel pump and ahead of the tank. If this is clogged it may explain why your friend had to dump fuel down the carb.
Another cause may not have been either the fuel pump or the filter but rather, the electrical power to the fuel pump. When you check the area behind the storage bins you'll notice a plastic electrical coupler under the bin on the drivers' side. This coupler connects all electrical items in the rear of the car to the front of the car--- including the fuel pump. If rust has allowed water to pool in this area you may find that this coupler has evidence of arcing and shorting out. This is exactly what happened to my second of five RX7s--- an '82 GSL that I owned in 1994.
One more thing: if your carb turns out to be a dud and in need of a rebuild, there's a guy on here who posts under the name Sterling who rebuilds these carbs to better than stock--- somewhere on the order of 25% more CFMs I believe, and for a very reasonable price. You'll need to send him a rebuildable core, and I believe he's located somewhere down your way.
As for your suspicion that the fuel pump may be bad, turn the key to the "on" position. (not the "start" position. This also assumes you have a good battery).
You should be able to hear the electric fuel pump humming. It's located under the car on the drivers' side and just forward of the fuel tank. One thing that will need to be changed (besides the fuel in the tank and possibly the tank and fuel lines) is the fuel filter. It's an in-line type filter (about $3) and it's located just aft of the fuel pump and ahead of the tank. If this is clogged it may explain why your friend had to dump fuel down the carb.
Another cause may not have been either the fuel pump or the filter but rather, the electrical power to the fuel pump. When you check the area behind the storage bins you'll notice a plastic electrical coupler under the bin on the drivers' side. This coupler connects all electrical items in the rear of the car to the front of the car--- including the fuel pump. If rust has allowed water to pool in this area you may find that this coupler has evidence of arcing and shorting out. This is exactly what happened to my second of five RX7s--- an '82 GSL that I owned in 1994.
One more thing: if your carb turns out to be a dud and in need of a rebuild, there's a guy on here who posts under the name Sterling who rebuilds these carbs to better than stock--- somewhere on the order of 25% more CFMs I believe, and for a very reasonable price. You'll need to send him a rebuildable core, and I believe he's located somewhere down your way.
Last edited by Aviator 902S; 01-19-06 at 08:16 PM.
01-21-06, 10:17 AM
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thanks Av....i am gonna finally tear that open today, and check for rust, and the pump wiring. It has been aweful here.Too much rain to work outside.This really sucks....I orginallybuilt my 12 by 12 to work on bikes, and put my tools,compressor in.i knew I should have went bigger.....ugh!!!
if all works out with the mechanics on this car, I want to do a really nice custom paint job on it after winter is over. Maybe start calling around and getting a price on having my gagrage extended. Was good fordoing custompaint on bike tanks, but no good for cars....LOL
if all works out with the mechanics on this car, I want to do a really nice custom paint job on it after winter is over. Maybe start calling around and getting a price on having my gagrage extended. Was good fordoing custompaint on bike tanks, but no good for cars....LOL
01-21-06, 12:15 PM
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Glad you got your first seven, you got a really good deal. Your not too far from me, so if you ever need any help, feel free to get in touch with me.
As far as where to start with the car, I would just get a oil filter (preferably Mazda OEM), change the oil, drain the gas tank, change the fuel filters, inspect and possibly change the brakes, and check all other fluids, and replace them, and all other filters and etc. Also plugs.
As far as mixing oil and gas together, thats not true, unless someone has removed your oil metering pump. You will notice that the car will use oil every 500-1000miles or so. I would just run 10w30 or 10w40 in it. No synthetics, unless you really want to. (You will find thats a huge debate)
Other than that, you should be good to go, unless the carb. needs rebuilt, and other things of that nature for a car that has sat, and is a good number of years old. It sounds like you have the mechanical knowledge and experience though, and its good to hear your researching and asking questions before jumping into it.
Hope all goes well,
~Chris
As far as where to start with the car, I would just get a oil filter (preferably Mazda OEM), change the oil, drain the gas tank, change the fuel filters, inspect and possibly change the brakes, and check all other fluids, and replace them, and all other filters and etc. Also plugs.
As far as mixing oil and gas together, thats not true, unless someone has removed your oil metering pump. You will notice that the car will use oil every 500-1000miles or so. I would just run 10w30 or 10w40 in it. No synthetics, unless you really want to. (You will find thats a huge debate)
Other than that, you should be good to go, unless the carb. needs rebuilt, and other things of that nature for a car that has sat, and is a good number of years old. It sounds like you have the mechanical knowledge and experience though, and its good to hear your researching and asking questions before jumping into it.
Hope all goes well,
~Chris
01-22-06, 08:36 PM
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Thanks very much!!......I tooksome photos today. I pulled those containers from behind the seats...No rust there....Very solid.....and also checked under the car,,,very very clean!
the front innerwells are spotless...so I think I got lucky...i did check the tire carrier....its all clean also....i cannot wait to get started....just gotta finish some stuff up in my basement, so I can ignore the houseworkfor a bit...LOL
The clutch pedal is sitting on the floor. might be a slave cylinder, or just a bleeding needed done..not sure yet....I will rip the carb down for sure!
I took some photos, not the best, but to show the areas I was toldto check.
I do have to do behind the hatch lid, it is wasted there, but thats about the worst of it....
here's somephotos.....thanks for all the input, and I see tons of knowledge in the faq's,so I will try hard not to ask anything that has already been answered too.
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/a.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/b.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/c.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/d.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/e.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/f.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/g.jpg
the front innerwells are spotless...so I think I got lucky...i did check the tire carrier....its all clean also....i cannot wait to get started....just gotta finish some stuff up in my basement, so I can ignore the houseworkfor a bit...LOL
The clutch pedal is sitting on the floor. might be a slave cylinder, or just a bleeding needed done..not sure yet....I will rip the carb down for sure!
I took some photos, not the best, but to show the areas I was toldto check.
I do have to do behind the hatch lid, it is wasted there, but thats about the worst of it....
here's somephotos.....thanks for all the input, and I see tons of knowledge in the faq's,so I will try hard not to ask anything that has already been answered too.
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/a.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/b.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/c.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/d.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/e.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/f.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/benz1277/g.jpg
01-22-06, 10:24 PM
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That interior is very nice, but the rust in the storage bin area is an issue. Fortunately it's not too far gone and can be bead-blasted away. If this process leaves gaping holes they can be fixed by welding in new metal.
The exterior body metal at the base of the rear hatch is much more serious and will be a major under-taking. I'd see if I could find a car at the wreckers and cut that entire area out of it to graft onto yours--- simply filling it with bondo would only delay the inevitable.
Another area to check that I forgot to mention is the front unibody rails under the hood, particularly where the steering components (idler arm, steering box, etc) are attached. Check this area carefully because major rust here is often hidden under the paint and if it's serious enough it will not be repairable. It's not as common as storage bin rust but still...
That is definitely the stock Nikki 4-barrel carb, and the engine bay could certainly use a good cleaning/de-greasing.
The good news is that this car is pretty much stock so you're starting with a clean slate--- trouble-shooting will be a much more straight-forward task. Were you able to confirm if your fuel pump is working?
The exterior body metal at the base of the rear hatch is much more serious and will be a major under-taking. I'd see if I could find a car at the wreckers and cut that entire area out of it to graft onto yours--- simply filling it with bondo would only delay the inevitable.
Another area to check that I forgot to mention is the front unibody rails under the hood, particularly where the steering components (idler arm, steering box, etc) are attached. Check this area carefully because major rust here is often hidden under the paint and if it's serious enough it will not be repairable. It's not as common as storage bin rust but still...
That is definitely the stock Nikki 4-barrel carb, and the engine bay could certainly use a good cleaning/de-greasing.
The good news is that this car is pretty much stock so you're starting with a clean slate--- trouble-shooting will be a much more straight-forward task. Were you able to confirm if your fuel pump is working?
01-22-06, 10:34 PM
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Thanks!!..I will check the front end tomorrow...
I didn't start on the troubleshooting yet. that will be next weekend...i have some foundation work to finish on myhouse..."YUK"
the rust in the bin area, seemed to be easy to fix.I was picturing it much worse...I was ready to close my eyes when I pulled the bins out...LOL
That rear hatch area, is gonna be a problem....I dread it.....I am gonna hit the scrap yards, and try and cut one out. Then I will just tig it in, and try ,my best to get it smooth.
I didn't start on the troubleshooting yet. that will be next weekend...i have some foundation work to finish on myhouse..."YUK"
the rust in the bin area, seemed to be easy to fix.I was picturing it much worse...I was ready to close my eyes when I pulled the bins out...LOL
That rear hatch area, is gonna be a problem....I dread it.....I am gonna hit the scrap yards, and try and cut one out. Then I will just tig it in, and try ,my best to get it smooth.
01-22-06, 11:08 PM
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I forgot to mention...i was using a small hammer on those bin areas....I think the photos makes it look much worse....I hit it pretty hard,,,seems the paint just flaked there, and caused some surface rust.....Seems solid there.....although, I willstill tend to those areas....
I cannot believe the amount of stock and custom parts I am finding on the net. I am really looking forward to doing a custom job on this car.
The interioir is in great shape. No cracks anywhere. I am really not crazy about the wheels though. But I guess one step at a time. I am hoping to go larger than the 13 inch thats on there.
I cannot believe the amount of stock and custom parts I am finding on the net. I am really looking forward to doing a custom job on this car.
The interioir is in great shape. No cracks anywhere. I am really not crazy about the wheels though. But I guess one step at a time. I am hoping to go larger than the 13 inch thats on there.
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