A few problems
#1
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A few problems
I picked up a 84 the other day with 125k miles on it. It runs, but won't run long. The story from the guy I bought it from was that it needed to be rebuilt due to a oil seal going. Someone else said they thought it needed either a new fuel pump or a rebuilt carb. I will tell you what I have experienced so far and see what you think.
The car will start, but runs very rough and I can't get it to run for longer than 5 seconds, at most. After it runs and shuts off, fuel is dripping from the joints in the exhaust near the motor. Another issue that I noticed is that there is a loud clicking coming from the rear, pretty sure it is the fuel pump clicking. Also, there is fuel leaking from somewhere on the carb and dripping down the front passenger side of the motor. It smoked pretty heavily at first, but seems to have cleared up now. The car has been sitting for 3 years or so now.
Any advice you can send my way is much appreciated as I haven't messed with carbed motors in many many years!
The car will start, but runs very rough and I can't get it to run for longer than 5 seconds, at most. After it runs and shuts off, fuel is dripping from the joints in the exhaust near the motor. Another issue that I noticed is that there is a loud clicking coming from the rear, pretty sure it is the fuel pump clicking. Also, there is fuel leaking from somewhere on the carb and dripping down the front passenger side of the motor. It smoked pretty heavily at first, but seems to have cleared up now. The car has been sitting for 3 years or so now.
Any advice you can send my way is much appreciated as I haven't messed with carbed motors in many many years!
#2
Sounds like the fuel by the exhaust is from the drip on the passenger side? Fix your fuel leak, you might be getting air in the lines too, which could cause the car to cut.
Once you get that done check your spark at both the leading and trailing. She'll run, but not well, on only one set.
Once you get that done check your spark at both the leading and trailing. She'll run, but not well, on only one set.
#4
The loud clicking noise from the rear is likely just the stock fuel pump. They can be pretty loud.
Fix the fuel leaks before you do anything else. They are a fire hazard, and if you're leakinng that much fuel from the carb nothing else is going to work out for you until it's solved. Youcouuld have stuck needle valves in the acrb, which will cause a massive flood that can overflow/leak out of the carb.
If it sat for three years without running, odds are good that you'll need to do a carb rebuild. Not terribly hard, and not expensive, just time consuming and detailed work.
Fix the fuel leaks before you do anything else. They are a fire hazard, and if you're leakinng that much fuel from the carb nothing else is going to work out for you until it's solved. Youcouuld have stuck needle valves in the acrb, which will cause a massive flood that can overflow/leak out of the carb.
If it sat for three years without running, odds are good that you'll need to do a carb rebuild. Not terribly hard, and not expensive, just time consuming and detailed work.
#5
LS what?
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I am not sure where the stock FPR is, I will do a search and figure it out. There is a silver adjuster in line with the fuel line near the carb, it looks like some kind of FPR. You can adjust it between 1 and 8 I think. I am going to check the needle valves, replace the filter and figure out that silver regulator and see where that gets me.
Thanks for the words of wisdom and I will keep you updated!
Thanks for the words of wisdom and I will keep you updated!
#7
No fuel Pressure regulator that I know of on a stock 12A. I assume the silver thing you are talking about is the check valve in the fuel return line.
If the car has been setting that long, my first step would be to replace the fuel filter then drain the old gas and put in new. If you find rust and goo in the tank when you drain it, you will need to remove the tank and clean it. You will probably need to rebuild the carb to get it to run perfectly. You definitely need to find where the gas is leaking from. If the inlet jets are stuck open, causing the float bowls to overflow, a stiff rap on the top of the carb with the handle of a screwdriver might break it loose.
If the car has been setting that long, my first step would be to replace the fuel filter then drain the old gas and put in new. If you find rust and goo in the tank when you drain it, you will need to remove the tank and clean it. You will probably need to rebuild the carb to get it to run perfectly. You definitely need to find where the gas is leaking from. If the inlet jets are stuck open, causing the float bowls to overflow, a stiff rap on the top of the carb with the handle of a screwdriver might break it loose.
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#9
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Yes, that is a fpr you are seeing. This most likely means that the fuel pump has been replaced. What is the fpr currently set at?
Gas dripping out of the exhaust would indicate a hung up float, which is allowing gas to pour into the carb even when the demand is not there. You may be able to free it up by banging on the top of the carb (not the air cleaner, but the carb itself) with a plastic hammer or something else that won't cause damage. But really, after sitting for that long, you may as well just rebuild the carb. Plan for a few hours of work and about 40 bucks for the rebuild kit. This should also take care of the leaks on the carb itself.
Good luck....
.
Gas dripping out of the exhaust would indicate a hung up float, which is allowing gas to pour into the carb even when the demand is not there. You may be able to free it up by banging on the top of the carb (not the air cleaner, but the carb itself) with a plastic hammer or something else that won't cause damage. But really, after sitting for that long, you may as well just rebuild the carb. Plan for a few hours of work and about 40 bucks for the rebuild kit. This should also take care of the leaks on the carb itself.
Good luck....
.
#10
LS what?
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Thanks for all of the replies. It is not a humming noise at all, definitely a clicking. I got under the car today, the fuel pump looks stock, so I don't know why that aftermarket FPR would be necessary. I am thinking they were using it as a bandaid for another problem, not sure though. I think it was set at 4 or so. Regardless of where I put it, there is a terrible fuel smell and gas drips out of the exhaust.
There was a spare carb in the car and it looks like most of the parts are there. I am going to start by tearing it down and rebuilding it. Hopefully I can get these bugs figured out sooner than later. Will keep you updated.
There was a spare carb in the car and it looks like most of the parts are there. I am going to start by tearing it down and rebuilding it. Hopefully I can get these bugs figured out sooner than later. Will keep you updated.
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I had the same problem with my sa. Check the needle and seat to see if they are plugged. If they are the float will be stuck wide open and dump tons of fuel into the engine. It will run really rough and dump raw unburnt gas out of the exhaust. It is easy to get to just take the top off of the carb and they are right there. Good luck.
#14
LS what?
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Update:
Upon further inspection we found the previous owner had installed a Purolator fuel pump. (Until today I didn't know Purolator made fuel pumps!). It was replaced with a brand new, stock pump today. The fuel filter was also replaced and the aftermarket FPR has been removed. I rebuilt the carb a few weeks ago with a Bap Geon rebuild kit, new needle valves, gaskets, etc.
We tried to start it today and got the same flooding problem. With the key in the 'on' position you can actually see fuel shooting from each of the four jets, both secondary and primary. Does anyone have any ideas here?!
Thanks!
Upon further inspection we found the previous owner had installed a Purolator fuel pump. (Until today I didn't know Purolator made fuel pumps!). It was replaced with a brand new, stock pump today. The fuel filter was also replaced and the aftermarket FPR has been removed. I rebuilt the carb a few weeks ago with a Bap Geon rebuild kit, new needle valves, gaskets, etc.
We tried to start it today and got the same flooding problem. With the key in the 'on' position you can actually see fuel shooting from each of the four jets, both secondary and primary. Does anyone have any ideas here?!
Thanks!
#15
motor in pieces
Either your needles arent seating and shutting off the fuel flow which could be a fuel pressure problem, i recommend checking it with a gauge. Make sure your float level is correct(check your fuel bowl sight glasses, fuel level should be about the middle of the glass)
#16
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Yeah, if the floats were working correctly, then the needle valves would be cutting off the fuel flow. Did you get a stock pump for a carb'd 7? If you got one for a fuel injected model then the fuel pressure would be way too high.
If you have the correct pump, you might try banging on the top of the carb with a plastic mallet or similar item that won't damage it, and see if you can shake loose the floats. Otherwise, pull the top of the carb off and inspect the movement. Sometimes when you install the floats, they can get hung up and stay open full time.
If you have the correct pump, you might try banging on the top of the carb with a plastic mallet or similar item that won't damage it, and see if you can shake loose the floats. Otherwise, pull the top of the carb off and inspect the movement. Sometimes when you install the floats, they can get hung up and stay open full time.
#17
LS what?
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It was ordered from Ray at Malloy, it is for a 12a. I will take the top of the carb off to get to the floats and needle valves the next time I am home.
I will also get a gauge to check the fuel pressure, shouldn't it be 3.5psi or so?
Thanks!
I will also get a gauge to check the fuel pressure, shouldn't it be 3.5psi or so?
Thanks!
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