FC Radiator in FB
12-25-07, 04:00 AM
#27
FB+FC=F-ME
No doubt the stock fan and shroud does the best job for cooling.However.........
I have found that my power,throttle response and turbo lag are at their respective bests, when the engine temp is relatively high.Usually when the stock gauge is between 1/2 and 3/4,which coresponds to about 92-93* Celsius on my digital temp/fan controller.....just under 200*F.Most guys will start to freak when the stock gauge gets over 1/2,but its WELL within the allowable operating range of our engines,and the she really goes like stink at that temp (provided the air intake temps are controlled)
With all my old engines,I always setup the cooling system to keep the needle down around the 1/3 range on the stock gauge.Probably cost me a few HP,but there was the paranoia factor regarding rotary engines and heat and there was less penalty with an N/A engine that with a turbo.Nowadays,I look more at the total max capacity of the system when the power and boost is on for extended periods,rather than normal operating temps when driving around.If the system can keep up with extended full power and keep the temps during those conditions around 94-97*C,then I dont worry.With the electric fans,I do get large variations in temps when city driving,due to the total lack of airflow when they are off,and the onslaught of air that hits my 4 heat exchangers when I'm moving.
All engines (and especially turbos) need heat to work their best,especially the rotary with its heat robbing combustion chamber.Im sure Mazda took that into account when they programmed the cooling fan settings of the FD.True,heat destroyed the REW,but it also allowed it to make its phenominal power numbers during that short life.I kinda split the difference between the likely overcooling abilites of the mechanical FC fan/shroud system and the hell-for-hot setup of the FD,which sacrificed longevity for maximum thermal effeciency.The FD's dual fans dont even come on full speed until the coolant reaches something like 240*F!!!
I have found that my power,throttle response and turbo lag are at their respective bests, when the engine temp is relatively high.Usually when the stock gauge is between 1/2 and 3/4,which coresponds to about 92-93* Celsius on my digital temp/fan controller.....just under 200*F.Most guys will start to freak when the stock gauge gets over 1/2,but its WELL within the allowable operating range of our engines,and the she really goes like stink at that temp (provided the air intake temps are controlled)
With all my old engines,I always setup the cooling system to keep the needle down around the 1/3 range on the stock gauge.Probably cost me a few HP,but there was the paranoia factor regarding rotary engines and heat and there was less penalty with an N/A engine that with a turbo.Nowadays,I look more at the total max capacity of the system when the power and boost is on for extended periods,rather than normal operating temps when driving around.If the system can keep up with extended full power and keep the temps during those conditions around 94-97*C,then I dont worry.With the electric fans,I do get large variations in temps when city driving,due to the total lack of airflow when they are off,and the onslaught of air that hits my 4 heat exchangers when I'm moving.
All engines (and especially turbos) need heat to work their best,especially the rotary with its heat robbing combustion chamber.Im sure Mazda took that into account when they programmed the cooling fan settings of the FD.True,heat destroyed the REW,but it also allowed it to make its phenominal power numbers during that short life.I kinda split the difference between the likely overcooling abilites of the mechanical FC fan/shroud system and the hell-for-hot setup of the FD,which sacrificed longevity for maximum thermal effeciency.The FD's dual fans dont even come on full speed until the coolant reaches something like 240*F!!!
12-25-07, 10:24 AM
#28
When I had the electric fan it would always hang around 3/4 area on the stock gauge, went back to the OEM setup and now it's always around 1/4 - 1/3 area just like you said... paranoia factor. I know something is up RIGHT AWAY if I'm in or past the 1/2 mark.
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