FB steering box
03-14-13, 12:49 PM
#1
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FB steering box
I have an 83 rx7 with tokiko shocks, newer bushings, new wheel bearings and RB springs, i have TOO MUCH play in my steering wheel. does anyone have info on how to adjust the steering box, OR what replacement options there are? I know there has to be others with this problem...
03-14-13, 01:31 PM
#2
This is a very common topic on this forum, do a search in the 1st gen section and 1st gen archive and you will get alot of info. The dead spot in the middle is the common complaint and there is an adjustment on the box that can take some of it out but it will still have some free play, and its easy to over tighten which makes it worse in the long run, its just inherent in the design of the recirculating ball steering box. I feel the complaints are somewhat overstated as the steering is really quite good anytime you are not going straight ahead, once you get used to it.
The only real fix is a rack and pinion upgrade and the choices are limited ,and the costs can be high. The three possibilities are Re-Speed, a second gen subframe swap and a company named CP or cp racing used to make one but its no longer available.
The only real fix is a rack and pinion upgrade and the choices are limited ,and the costs can be high. The three possibilities are Re-Speed, a second gen subframe swap and a company named CP or cp racing used to make one but its no longer available.
03-14-13, 10:56 PM
#3
I adjusted mine by following these instructions:
Mazspeed's First Generation Rx-7 Club Page
I was able to take out all of my free play, but currently the steering feels a bit too tight. I don't seem to have the knack for making this adjustment and have had to do through the process several times. I'm getting close, but since I'm doing the adjustment with the gear box in the car, it I can seem to get the steering wheel bearing pre-load correct. The first time I tried the adjustment, the car felt like a manual truck. Currently my steering wheel will return to center on its own, but not as fast as I'd like it to.
Some notes regarding the above instructions.
You can order a 40mm socket from Amazon. You will have to take the socket to a grinder and remove the campher from the edge of the socket. DON'T SKIP THIS STEP or else you will round off the top of the locknut. But the large lock nut really isn't 40mm but 40.64 or something close to that. DON'T TRY TO HAMMER THE SOCKET ONTO THE LOCKNUT. Take a dremel and a small grinding wheel and remove a bit of material until it will comfortably fit over the lock nut.
Images below:
This is the gearbox before removal of the center dust cap. Note the large brass locknut.
The 40mm socket and adapter with white out painted along the campher that needs to be ground off.
Locknut removed and measured. Note that it's not a true 40mm.
Tools needed to loosen steering shaft locknut. I used a 3/8" socket extension to make a longer chisel. The ruler is only for reference.
Place tip of chisel into notches and tap extended end to turn the locknut. Careful! you are very close to brake lines. Locknut material is soft.
Turning the sector shaft plug to adjust sector shaft preload. This isn't explained very well. There are four holes at the top of the sector shaft in which you can use a hammer and small round chisel to turn the sector shaft, but it's darn impossible. I made a tool out of a large square washer, nut and cut up drill bit. This tool made it much easier to turn the plug and more precise.
Mazspeed's First Generation Rx-7 Club Page
I was able to take out all of my free play, but currently the steering feels a bit too tight. I don't seem to have the knack for making this adjustment and have had to do through the process several times. I'm getting close, but since I'm doing the adjustment with the gear box in the car, it I can seem to get the steering wheel bearing pre-load correct. The first time I tried the adjustment, the car felt like a manual truck. Currently my steering wheel will return to center on its own, but not as fast as I'd like it to.
Some notes regarding the above instructions.
You can order a 40mm socket from Amazon. You will have to take the socket to a grinder and remove the campher from the edge of the socket. DON'T SKIP THIS STEP or else you will round off the top of the locknut. But the large lock nut really isn't 40mm but 40.64 or something close to that. DON'T TRY TO HAMMER THE SOCKET ONTO THE LOCKNUT. Take a dremel and a small grinding wheel and remove a bit of material until it will comfortably fit over the lock nut.
Images below:
This is the gearbox before removal of the center dust cap. Note the large brass locknut.
The 40mm socket and adapter with white out painted along the campher that needs to be ground off.
Locknut removed and measured. Note that it's not a true 40mm.
Tools needed to loosen steering shaft locknut. I used a 3/8" socket extension to make a longer chisel. The ruler is only for reference.
Place tip of chisel into notches and tap extended end to turn the locknut. Careful! you are very close to brake lines. Locknut material is soft.
Turning the sector shaft plug to adjust sector shaft preload. This isn't explained very well. There are four holes at the top of the sector shaft in which you can use a hammer and small round chisel to turn the sector shaft, but it's darn impossible. I made a tool out of a large square washer, nut and cut up drill bit. This tool made it much easier to turn the plug and more precise.
03-14-13, 11:21 PM
#4
Here are images of the tool I made to help turn the sector shaft adjustment plug. Note this plug is locked down by the large 40.64mm lock nut. In the center of the sector shaft plug, there is an adjuster screw and locknut. This is all confusing. But they have to be adjusted in order.
Steering shaft first, sector shaft 2nd, fine adjustment screw last.
I didn't mention a lot of things, but I'm not trying to repeat everything in the instructions, but just give some supplemental information based on my experience.
Before I started, I had over 4 inches of free play. Now I essentially have none, but as I said earlier, I'm no expert, and it is still too tight for my liking. I have to back off some more before I begin to wear down the bearings. What's apparently got my stymied is that the adjustments will change as you tighten the lock nuts. So I'm finding it hard to get the the right feel out of the steering.
I haven't mentioned the dial indicator, but it's essential. I have no free play down at the pitman arm now.
I drilled 4 holes in a large square washer at the same points as the holes in the sector shaft plug. Then I cut that drill bit into four sections and welded them into the holes I made in the washer. Then on the opposite side of the washer, I welded on a large nut. Note the nut and washer are large enough to clear the center adjustment screw. With a long extension it is easy to turn the sector shaft plug in small steps.
Steering shaft first, sector shaft 2nd, fine adjustment screw last.
I didn't mention a lot of things, but I'm not trying to repeat everything in the instructions, but just give some supplemental information based on my experience.
Before I started, I had over 4 inches of free play. Now I essentially have none, but as I said earlier, I'm no expert, and it is still too tight for my liking. I have to back off some more before I begin to wear down the bearings. What's apparently got my stymied is that the adjustments will change as you tighten the lock nuts. So I'm finding it hard to get the the right feel out of the steering.
I haven't mentioned the dial indicator, but it's essential. I have no free play down at the pitman arm now.
I drilled 4 holes in a large square washer at the same points as the holes in the sector shaft plug. Then I cut that drill bit into four sections and welded them into the holes I made in the washer. Then on the opposite side of the washer, I welded on a large nut. Note the nut and washer are large enough to clear the center adjustment screw. With a long extension it is easy to turn the sector shaft plug in small steps.
