FB with Miata Torsen
#26
Originally Posted by Kill No Cone
Yes, I am married to the Miata gear set and I too like keeping the gears with the case they came with. I like it becuase I am just not up to setting the pinion lengeth and backlash.
All the first gens use a drive shaft flange with 62mm spacing right, and the second gen car use a 67mm spacing. (Right?) So, I could take an earlier drive shaft with removabel U joints. I could change the drive shaft flange to one from a second gen car with 67mm spacing and I am set.
All the first gens use a drive shaft flange with 62mm spacing right, and the second gen car use a 67mm spacing. (Right?) So, I could take an earlier drive shaft with removabel U joints. I could change the drive shaft flange to one from a second gen car with 67mm spacing and I am set.
#27
Ive been setting up rearends for a while now,and our style is by far the easiest.Regardless,you cannot afford to guess or fudge anything,its still a VERY precise proceedure,but our specific style 3rd member has an very adjustable friendly setup compared to most.
The carrier adjusters make backlash a cakewalk and the pinion depth shims are usually close when you reuse the old one from a given case.But dont count on it being dead on if you change the ring and pinion.The shims are cheap though...The pinion crush sleeve is also nice,since it eliminates another shim stack and a bunch of teardown time getting the pinion preload right.
Whatever you do,if your gonna do a rearend setup,get to the Chevy dealer and buy a small tube of REAL gear marking compound.Its the ONLY way to go,forget prussian blue,forget white grease...this stuff makes pattern reading super easy and its only a few bucks.The tube will last you a liftime and its very,very high pigment,mustard yellow so theres no doubt.You also must have dial indicator on a magnetic stand,theres just no getting around that one,expect about 40-60 bucks for that one.
Everything else is just handtools.No voodoo or special,crazy tools....although a bearing press can make it nice for installing new bearings.
The carrier adjusters make backlash a cakewalk and the pinion depth shims are usually close when you reuse the old one from a given case.But dont count on it being dead on if you change the ring and pinion.The shims are cheap though...The pinion crush sleeve is also nice,since it eliminates another shim stack and a bunch of teardown time getting the pinion preload right.
Whatever you do,if your gonna do a rearend setup,get to the Chevy dealer and buy a small tube of REAL gear marking compound.Its the ONLY way to go,forget prussian blue,forget white grease...this stuff makes pattern reading super easy and its only a few bucks.The tube will last you a liftime and its very,very high pigment,mustard yellow so theres no doubt.You also must have dial indicator on a magnetic stand,theres just no getting around that one,expect about 40-60 bucks for that one.
Everything else is just handtools.No voodoo or special,crazy tools....although a bearing press can make it nice for installing new bearings.
#28
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Ive been setting up rearends for a while now,and our style is by far the easiest.Regardless,you cannot afford to guess or fudge anything,its still a VERY precise proceedure,but our specific style 3rd member has an very adjustable friendly setup compared to most.
The carrier adjusters make backlash a cakewalk and the pinion depth shims are usually close when you reuse the old one from a given case.But dont count on it being dead on if you change the ring and pinion.The shims are cheap though...The pinion crush sleeve is also nice,since it eliminates another shim stack and a bunch of teardown time getting the pinion preload right.
Whatever you do,if your gonna do a rearend setup,get to the Chevy dealer and buy a small tube of REAL gear marking compound.Its the ONLY way to go,forget prussian blue,forget white grease...this stuff makes pattern reading super easy and its only a few bucks.The tube will last you a liftime and its very,very high pigment,mustard yellow so theres no doubt.You also must have dial indicator on a magnetic stand,theres just no getting around that one,expect about 40-60 bucks for that one.
Everything else is just handtools.No voodoo or special,crazy tools....although a bearing press can make it nice for installing new bearings.
The carrier adjusters make backlash a cakewalk and the pinion depth shims are usually close when you reuse the old one from a given case.But dont count on it being dead on if you change the ring and pinion.The shims are cheap though...The pinion crush sleeve is also nice,since it eliminates another shim stack and a bunch of teardown time getting the pinion preload right.
Whatever you do,if your gonna do a rearend setup,get to the Chevy dealer and buy a small tube of REAL gear marking compound.Its the ONLY way to go,forget prussian blue,forget white grease...this stuff makes pattern reading super easy and its only a few bucks.The tube will last you a liftime and its very,very high pigment,mustard yellow so theres no doubt.You also must have dial indicator on a magnetic stand,theres just no getting around that one,expect about 40-60 bucks for that one.
Everything else is just handtools.No voodoo or special,crazy tools....although a bearing press can make it nice for installing new bearings.
How do you determine which spacer shim you need? There's several of different thicknesses available.
#31
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
What they are not great for is turbocharged,drag racing, clutch drops.
Not that you couldnt put a Torsen in a turbo car,its just that they dont take kindly to shock loading abuse.
Not that you couldnt put a Torsen in a turbo car,its just that they dont take kindly to shock loading abuse.
#33
Originally Posted by Manntis
Audi didn't have a problem putting TorSens in their turbo'd Quattro Coupes of the 80s. Won quite a few hillclimb races (such as Pike's Peak) with it, in fact!
Either way, difficult to get one wheel spin when it has to spin 4x instead of 2x. AWD is much easier on differentials than 2WD in loose conditions.
AWD is weird, anyway. They use viscous-clutch diffs to good effect, too!
#35
Nah. Audi was just outclassed. They were trying to make huge power in order to overcome the huge aerodynamic aids they needed to keep the car stable with an 85" or so wheelbase that they homologated back when the cars were a lot slower...
AWD was never made illegal, they just took away the big aerodynamics, carpet fiber materials, and 500+hp engines. And the end result today is cars with half the power and more weight running faster stage times than the Group B era.
AWD was never made illegal, they just took away the big aerodynamics, carpet fiber materials, and 500+hp engines. And the end result today is cars with half the power and more weight running faster stage times than the Group B era.
#36
Audi Quattro tech was banned from a number of races including everything from SCCA Trans-Am series (1988) to TOCA (1997) - in all cases Audi was racking up wins, then saw their quattro banned for "unfair advantage." Australia is now the only country in the world where Audi quattros are still permitted to race in the super touring car series. Elsewhere, quattro has been banned as it is considered to be an 'unfair advantage' over competitors, despite the extra weight carried by the vehicles.
and back on-topic, Audi was sending 500hp through the TorSen in both off-road rallying and touring car race conditions. As Peejay said it was in AWD application, but impressive nonetheless.
and back on-topic, Audi was sending 500hp through the TorSen in both off-road rallying and touring car race conditions. As Peejay said it was in AWD application, but impressive nonetheless.
Last edited by Manntis; 06-01-06 at 12:54 PM.
#38
X2 some pictures would be good too, im good with the spanner but never set up backlash etc
#39
Last edited by DriveFast7; 10-10-08 at 02:20 PM.
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