Family keepsake 1978 Savanna rx-7 - rebuild or replace?
#26
Your right, although it was part of the Ca emissions, the EGR didn't apply until 1980. Interesting that the whole carb may be different for JDM cars. The Aussie forums may be a better place to gain JDM specific info. Hopefully, KYPRO can hook you up.
#28
I know that from getting the vehicle CA emissions certified 15 years ago, that the vehicle does require an EGR and is not exempt- as you can see here from this CA cert:
Also, isn't this the EGR? Lower Center of this picture:
KYPREO- Thank you for posting those carb pics, though the air horn is definitely quite different from mine.
I think the AUS market may be useful for possibly attaining any body/suspension oriented parts I may need, but as far as the carb goes it's starting to appear that I may have to Frankenstein the carb rebuild until further notice.
Also, isn't this the EGR? Lower Center of this picture:
KYPREO- Thank you for posting those carb pics, though the air horn is definitely quite different from mine.
I think the AUS market may be useful for possibly attaining any body/suspension oriented parts I may need, but as far as the carb goes it's starting to appear that I may have to Frankenstein the carb rebuild until further notice.
#29
That does look like it may be an EGR valve, I dont have anything on my center iron in that area but the oil filler. Perhaps JDM Emissions required EGR when USDM Federal didn't. My car is a 50 state car, passed CA smog in january, and I dont have EGR.
#30
Forgive if this suggestion was made re: start-up and fuel issues.
Presume you have checked fuel tank for old gas and its condition? Change the fuel filter (rear left in front of fuel tank)?
I have found that long-term stored RXs (and likely cars in general) with incorrectly prepped fuel systems can give a new owner some headaches.
Tanks with low/old fuel, esp if exposed to repeated heat/cold cycles that can create condensation in the Tank results in the tank's insides rusting and shedding that in to the fuel. This then gets sucked up (repeatedly) into the fuel take-up in the tank and either plugs there (temporarily) and/or the fuel filter. If you do not know the storage-state the car was put in to begin with - having fuel treated or removed, etc - you may wish to pull the tank and have it cleaned and resealed. Otherwise, all the mitigation you do at the front end (carb) will be in vain if the tank keeps pumping out gunk.
POR15 makes a dandy fuel tank "liner"/resto kit for about $30. It coats the innards of a cleaned tank to seal and prevent the shedding. Tanks can be cleaned at any competent Rad shop.
If this is worth doing, be aware the SA RX7s do NOT have a tank drain point, tho most can be removed thru the Level Float sender access at the left side of the tank, behind a plastic cover in the rear driver wheel well. You WILL want to have a new (cheap, available) Sender gasket handy...
best of luck with the Resto!
Stu Aull
80GS
AZ
Presume you have checked fuel tank for old gas and its condition? Change the fuel filter (rear left in front of fuel tank)?
I have found that long-term stored RXs (and likely cars in general) with incorrectly prepped fuel systems can give a new owner some headaches.
Tanks with low/old fuel, esp if exposed to repeated heat/cold cycles that can create condensation in the Tank results in the tank's insides rusting and shedding that in to the fuel. This then gets sucked up (repeatedly) into the fuel take-up in the tank and either plugs there (temporarily) and/or the fuel filter. If you do not know the storage-state the car was put in to begin with - having fuel treated or removed, etc - you may wish to pull the tank and have it cleaned and resealed. Otherwise, all the mitigation you do at the front end (carb) will be in vain if the tank keeps pumping out gunk.
POR15 makes a dandy fuel tank "liner"/resto kit for about $30. It coats the innards of a cleaned tank to seal and prevent the shedding. Tanks can be cleaned at any competent Rad shop.
If this is worth doing, be aware the SA RX7s do NOT have a tank drain point, tho most can be removed thru the Level Float sender access at the left side of the tank, behind a plastic cover in the rear driver wheel well. You WILL want to have a new (cheap, available) Sender gasket handy...
best of luck with the Resto!
Stu Aull
80GS
AZ
#32
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