cletus

Started trying to take the oil pan off last night to put a new gasket on. I gave up after 3 bolts, since all 3 of those sheared off (with minimal force applied). It has been suggested I pull the motor to get them out, but I'd rather not do that if possible.

Anyone else gone through this? If not, thanks for allowing me to vent.

Man, I really don't want to attempt the rest at this rate .

-=DanK=-

What I have done with other oil pans was make sure the engine is at operating temperature and use a small propane or butane torch to heat up the bolt, it should help break the seal if theres any thread locker in there that you are fighting, and it makes the metal expand so it should break loose easier. Of course you will see people reply after me telling you not to do the torch thing, I just know that in my experience it has worked. Just make sure you watch where you point the flame so you dont roast any wires, and take some time to degrease the whole area, lighting the oil and grease stuck to your motor on fire could be a bad thing. Either way I hope you find something that works, Good luck!

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Yeah those shear easy.... Drill em out... Damn that sucks.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Heat works, when used safely, also slightly tighten the bolt 1st will sometime loosen the bond.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

like the head broke off or you rounded the head?
10mm socket right??

cletus

Head broke off. I honestly forget what size socket it was, but that wasn't the issue.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

It's an M6 x 1.0 thread. Cletus and I have already discussed offline, but so others know - inserts are available through McMaster, PN 90245A171.

You've just got to pull your motor. Pulling it is the safest way to get squarely on your snapped shanks, as you can chuck it up into a mill and stay nice and square. As long as it needs to come out to get those 3 cleanly, it might as well come out now so you can heat the rest more easily.

(shameless plug) By the way, you can also ask at vintagerotaries.org, because Billy and I are over there a lot, and can help out locally. (/shameless plug)

matts85rx7

Pulling it is not necessary, I may be new to rotaries, but I know my way around cars damn well. Its easy, use an easy-out with the proper drill bit size (tells you on the extractor) being sure not to let the easy out get broken. I have done this before with awesome success. Screw pulling the motor.....

cletus

I pretty much wanna try to avoid pulling the motor because if I do, it means the 3 events I want to run in march are pretty much out the window.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Unfortunately, you may need to bit the bullet on this one. Easyouts often break on this small of a diameter bolt and trying to drill and retap them with the engine still in the car is iffy at best. End result is usually more oil leaks than most owners wish to deal with.

You have 3 weeks till March, time to get busy and call all of those friends that owe you favors. I'm a firm believer in do it right the 1st time, not the 2nd time.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

You're currently 0 for 5 (2 were missing, or I'd bet broken, by previous a owner), so it doesn't look good for the remaining screws. What's more, I'd doubt that you'll get them all back out without the extractor. Pulling the engine really won't take more than 2 hours, and you can then get to everything you need, and can heat / massage the remaining screws much easier. I've got to look for houses in the coming weekends, but we can get your block to the Athens machine shop (and replace main seals) with a quickness.

Really.

When's your first event?

cletus

Figured I'd post a follow up in case someone ever found this searching.

Crit came by and we ended up pulling the motor. Not exactly my first choice, but, it is what it is. Was good to be able to look everything over (and unfortunately started a snowballing to do list).

I was able to get the remaining 16 bolts out carefully without breaking any. A little PB blaster, tapped them a few times, then tried the slightly tighten and loosen approach. Then was just able to take them out fine.

For the 6 broken ones, I picked up a set of the left handed drill bits and a set of easy outs. Never even touched the easy outs. The left handed drill bits backed the screws out every time. Started with the smallest, and if that didn't work, stepped up to the next size and that usually pulled it out. Ended up being able to get them out without even messing up the threads, which is nice.

So, I probably could have managed this without pulling the motor, but it was a lot easier this way (the bolts, not the pulling/reinstalling ). Now if my oil pan baffle and 2nd gasket get here soon, I can work on putting the motor back in.

Thanks folks.

81gsl12a

iTrader: (1)

could have welded a nut to the broke bolt.. if they where in the aluminum a day late and a buck short ... good to see you got them out

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

I don't know the name but they have a rubber like cresent wrench for sensitive bolts.


Sort of like this but it has a handle and everything

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Best tool for the job (before breaking the bolts) would have been a 3/8" cordless impact. Yes, yes I know everyone doesn't have one, but they are not stong enough to break bolts unless you really are hammering on it. Also they are very fast, which is the reason I have one they are an amazing time saver in the trade. Can take an oil pan off in almost no time!