sweetness has been achieved.

 

i need help getting my 12a started. i have a rb intake manifold with a monza exhaust i just threw together. i have a 500 edelbrock thunderseries electric choke. 1403 i have a holley fpr and taylor 10.4 mm wires. i think i am not getting enought spark with the stock coils one is reading 1.5 ohms (the front coil) and the rear is reading 1.2 ohms i think the rear is dieing. my timing was an issue for a while until i looked it up im my haynes manual. it keeps flooding out really fast and i have turned the idle mixture screws all the way lean. i havent been able to get it to fire axcept for a few 4-5 sputters as i crank it over. its been a headache for the past week for me and i am not the best at tuning out carbs even though edelbrocks are very easy to tune supposedly. this is my first rotary engine and i really could use some help. ive got spark but it doesnt look like much. brand new ngk R plugs so i know there not fouling out. good grounds to the block and everything else i just need some pointers on how to get it started because its been a year since i drove it last and i really miss her. i would take it to a rotary mechanic to have them mess with it but there isnt anyone around here that knows rotaries. theres only one other first gen 7 in town and its driven by an old lady( shes cool) and then one rx8 in town. the closest place to have it looked at is about 250 miles away and im not towing it that far.

 

Now this may be a stupid question but did you make sure your primaries on the carb are on the drivers side and the secondaries are on the passenger side? the fuel line looks like its on the other side but I dont know edelbrocks either. But hey it couldnt really even matter either! lol

 

Nope, that's the correct orientation for an Edelbrock.

 

Wow, white and red looks really nice! Not feeling the blue engine bay though.

 

That edelbrock is mounted with the primaries feeding the secondaries, spin it 180 degrees.

 

^ Look closer. It's correct.

 

actually its chevy orange and alpine white. i decided to paint it blue because of a couple reasons. number 1 i have never owned a blue car and i found this tri stage blue that i really liked and i work at a body shop so i got the paint for next to nothing. number 2 (and your gonna laugh) i am a die hard bears fan and i wanted to do a theme for the 7. i decided to go with orange white and blue for the whole bears theme. also i believe that white rims look really hot on blue paint. im building it as kinda a show car but also kinda my daily driver at the same time. even though i havent driven it in a year now.
the carb is definately installed the right way. i put a 1 inch open spacer on it because i read on a thread on this site it is required in order for the vacuum to pull evenly across the bore. i am beginning to think that i need bigger coils to ignite the more fuel and air i am getting into the engine.
i am going to order some 45000V 1.5 ohm coils tonight but im also gonna play with the carb some more tonight while i await the delivery of the coils.
anyone know the easiest way to get this 12a to fire up?
i have the distributor turned all the way to retard it as much as possible
its crankin and crankin and when i push the gas a couple times it will try to fire up but will not idle and i can not get it to rev up it just putters a few times

 

Looking at the close up i stand corrected, the carb is correct!

 

well i was looking at my coils again tonight after i ordered 2 brand new pertronix flamethrower coils from checkers. i did an ohm test again just to make sure i was right about them maybe being a little weak and i noticed that the front coil is jumping all over the place. its jumping anywhere from 1.0 ohm to 19 ohms so i believe that it is no good. the rear one is still reading about 1.2 ohm to 1.3 ohm. i checked and re checked the numbers and i believe that if the ohms are high then it is putting almost no voltage out to the plugs. i noticed on this site that someone said that you can technically get a rotary to start with just the top plugs working without the lower plugs at all. i dont plan on switching the coils to test this theory il just wait for my new ones to come in a couple days. hopefully this will fix my problem and it will just fire right up. i played with the carb some more and i think i have it close to where i need it to start up. hopefully you will hear back from me in a couple days with some good news and maybe even a video of it running open header although i dont know if you can upload videos to this site. i will post a new thread tonight with pictures of all that i have done to this car in the past year so go check it out and please leave me comments weather you like it or not.
thanks for all your help so far and im sure i will need more in the future.
anyone know how well a 12a will run with just a header and a glass pack?
i am planning on buying a flowtech purple hornies header because i like the look of it and i love the sound of glass packs its a 32 inch glasspack with a 3 inch turndown. this should keep some noise down at an idle and keep the weight down as far as exhaust weight.

 

Nooooooo. well as long as you know its going to be LOUD and the glass pack will only last about 3 months.

you should get a magnaflow or something with ss packing. imho.

 

i know its gonna be loud.. theres no noise polution out here in the middle of the desert. im still tossing it around trying to figure out what is the best options. i want it loud for sure and not a full lenght exhaust system

 

Well, you'll definitely get your wish. It'll be obscenely loud and get even louder when the glasspack burns away after a couple of weeks.

 

Yeah dude... you dont understand just how loud... we're talking you gonna have to take a break from driving it every 10 mins....... and you'll be deaf in a matter of months. lol Also i ran a straight header only for moving purposes and it had NO POWER at all and a huge headache came with it. But just my .02.

And FYI..... a little saying.... theres loud, then theres ROTARDEDLY LOUD!

 

ok maybe i wont run a glass pack... any suggestions on what to run. i know i dont want a full length exhaust and i dont really like turbo mufflers. i was looking at the dynomax bullets and i dont think there will be much difference between them and a glass pack if you say there really loud.
why do they sell a megaphone if open header loses power. they advertise that the megaphone will increase hp for the rotaries but is only for race purposes ( on racingbeat)

 

Hyper4mance2K had a 4" Dynomax right off the header and it died pretty quickly. Then he replaced it with a 3" Magnaflow and it blew up after only like a month or two. Now he's running a Racing Beat 3" universal presilencer there. NA rotaries are VERY hard on exhaust systems, so you have to be picky about the components you use.

I really don't know how you're going to get it quiet enough to be drivable with a short exhaust system unless you run the stock cast iron exhaust manifold and keep it in 2". If you try to make it flow well, it'll just be too loud.

I actually did that for a while when I was NA, just for kicks: stock exhaust manifold, two old 2" Rotary Engineering glasspacks in series (the only glasspacks that actually work on a rotary; unfortunately, RE is gone, so you can't get them anymore), and some Monza resonated tips exiting just before the rear wheel. Basically the whole exhaust system was just mufflers. The volume level was reasonable, but it didn't flow very well because it was too small and the tips and manifold were both restrictive. Sounded nice, though. Here's a vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQheBFzopKc

The stock cats make pretty good mufflers, too. If you just unbolt the midpipe and leave the stock manifold and cats, it's loud, but still drivable. Again, though, pretty restrictive.

Why exactly do you not want a full-length exhaust system? Is it just for looks?

 

ok so maybe a pre siliencer? i dont really have a reason for wanting a short exhaust. i guess i can go with a full lenght exhaust system and shoot flames out the rear. i was just tossing out ideas. i have taken almost 200 lbs out of the car and i was planning on keeping it as light as possible when putting it back together. i guess thats the reason for a short exhaust. i want it to be driveable though although i am tossing around the idea of just using it for auto cross. i just got an awesome job today. and will start in 2 weeks making almost 3 times as much as i do now and i will only work 6 months out of the year this means that i can dump way more money into my rx7 project now and maybe buy one of those camden superchargers. the mariah widebody kit is calling my name as well as the mariah hatch. i will just have to buy a racingbeat exhaust system i suppose too.
thanks for your support and for warning me about the glass packs. i wouldnt have been too pissed burning up the glasspacks every month though because there only 20$ and im used to blowing up speakers every month anyways.
thanks again.
any suggestions on the best exhaust system i could put on this 7?

 

As for a great inbetween in hp and sound racing beat probably really is the best for an already manufactured system. Me..... I just take the car to a local exhaust guy who's VERY good at it and I tell him the diameter and I give him my muffler and such. Its way cheaper than a racing beat but probably not as good.

 

well there is a good muffler shop in town and i was thinking about going to them and having them fab up a stainless system for me. should i run a pre silencer or just a straight pipe to a muffler. should i mount the muffler before or after the rear axle?
i was doing some research and there are a few companies that make some high heat mufflers and they stand behind them guaranteeing they wont blow out because of high heat.
im not too sure what im gonnna do still just looking for advice

 

I'd collect into 2.25" or 2.5". Use a presilencer for sure, and then a larger main muffler after the axle. Brands usually recommended around here are Racing Beat (they make an awesome universal muffler in 2.5"), Magnaflow, Borla, and more recently Vibrant. Whatever you get, make sure the packing is stainless or it'll burn up in short order.

 

is a resonator about the same thing as a pre silencer? vibrant makes a few different resonators that i have been looking at and i was wondering if i could get away with using one of those instead of a racing beat pre silencer.