You've never heard my radio.

1200watts of nominal power, somewhere over double that peak.

I've never felt the engine drop due to fan consumption.

So you're telling me that a fan motor, MAYBE drawing 10 amps after starting up, is taking horsepower?

I didnt' do the e-fan only to gain hp, i did it for reliability, looks, engine space, etc.

I still dont see how running electrical stuff robs the engine power. It has nothing to do w/ the engine power. I'm sure you have some explination, buti dont need to hear it. My system works very well, and id ont see any reason to complicate it with stuff it doesnt need.

 

if your alternator is working correctly, there's no way it should drop the idle on your engine... Alternators aren't supposed to have any friction. The only thing that might put very little drag on your engine is the electromagnet attracting and repelling every millisecond, but it does that to it's full extent all the time... why do you think there's a voltage regulator? The alternator doesn't put more drag on your engine whether it's got a heavy load or not....

 

That's a lie. It won't make the idle drop, it WILL take power and fuel. Period. Come on guys be a bit logic: what you do is you put the potential energy from the fuel into mechanical energy by internal combustion. You then use this mechanical energy to create electrical energy, by the alternator. You then use an electric motor to create mechanical energy again (the fan). All this causes powerloss. It's so simple even a 3 year old kid can see it. Now the question is: how much power do we loose, and how much does the stock fan take.
The stock fan will mainly take power because it's on all the time, even with the clutch not engaged. It becomes worse when the system gives up and the clutch is stuck. So we decide to use a controlable fan, that draws power ONLY when needed. What you do is the same as using a stuck stock fan.

 

yes, but what I'm saying is that the alternator doesn't take MORE and MORE mechanical energy away from the engine, it can only take it's maximum, which isn't anything compared to the stock clutch fan. All that's inside an alternator is a bunch of windings on a stator, and a bunch of windings in the outside ring. 3 of them to be exact, all at different intervals so that the current is almost constant. This makes the DC power flow from the rectifier almost constant, as to make DC power, you have to get rid of the bottom half of the wave...

All that can draw power is the bearings, a set of brushes, and the magnetic fields generated by the stator (basically an electromagnet) spinning past the stationatry windings.... much like passing two opposite sides of a set of magnets past each other.... not a whole lot of resistance... And you'd get the same amount of drag whether it be your headlights, stereo, and windsheild wipers on, or just an electric fan.

 

Yeah, thats kinda what i was thinking. Once the fans get going, even moving air from the front could keep them spinning, my guess is they draw very little air after theinitial speed up.

 

Ok, technically, Rotary Emotions is correct. It will put a miniscule amount more load on the alternator, but removing that large mass that the engine had to move even when the clutch on the fan wasn't engaged makes a huge difference. I know I noticed a big change in hp with the engine driven fan removed. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND INSTALLING THE E-FAN.

Not having that loud woosh noise everytime you hit the gas is a nice bonus, too!!

If you decide to put on an electric thermostat, then that's up to you. I believe that it really wouldn't make too much of a difference, but if that's what you want to do, go for it.