There are a good number of transverse mounted fwd cars that engine dampeners. Perhaps one of those would be better suited than the one jcfrx7 chose. so far, the 3rd gen dampener looks to be the best choice. While placement is ok, that placement works better on the 3rd gens because those engine are mounted by the rear plate, not the front like ours are. If the placement was moved to the rear iron, that would the best choice, imho.

Elwood, your work looks outstanding, but I'm afraid you mounting will be short lived due to stresses on the intake and ic piping. I'll be quite interested to see how it holds up in a long term trial. It may take a while to fail, but I think you will develope stress cracks in the aluminum and maybe even some intake gasket leaks.

 

i dont know if its a good idea to connect it to your intake piping,

 

I was thinking that my self. Remember that the intake is made out of aluminum and is very soft. The engine is going to put a lot of force at that point.

 

I think any off these setups tied to the inner fender is asking for frontend twist over a period of time. You guys have to remember these are unibody cars. If you do not brace the whole front clip, these will warp the front end. Let me rephrase that..............if you are building any serious horsepower.

 

Well the chock well Iam still experiencing it. I have done a couple of test to see hoe much the shock is moving and I havent seen any movement yet. Remember that this is a shock for a trunk in were is mounted at an angle for less compression force. The shock the way is put is straight into the engine so the force is alot grader.

Now if you look at a Racing Beat torque brace it has bushings.... Dont you think that the bushings are not going to compress. I think they will have some compression movement.

Now a steel bar then I think it might work ....but vibrations to the frame will be grater and maybee cause cracks.

 

Yes that true. This is for a street car with no more than 300 Hp.

 

I had the same concern originally, but after looking at the other setups and the power ratings they were designed for, I think this one will be OK. If you look at the design, the loading is almost directly normal to the gasket sealing plane, so it will put very little torque on the junction. The other end is tied to the shock tower, which is the beefiest thing above the frame rails.

But like you said, we'll see. Right now, getting the engine back together and in the car is my primary concern. It's guaranteed not to fail in the current state -- not running .

 

Mines the same as max7. It was there when I bought the car. It seems to work really good though.

 

eventually ill cough up the money for a RB one