Thanks guys, it came right off, lol. And i would of but i just got this one resurfaced and didnt have the money for a lightweight one, though how does it drive with one in every day stop n'go traffic?

 

this also reminds me i have some stuff from my trans swap(auto to manual) like the counter weight laying around i need to get rid of

 

It drives fine in traffic.... at least it did N/A... turbo build we be finished soon so we'll see if it changes.

Don't sell that counterweight if you plan on going with a lightweight flywheel, you'll need it to bolt the flywheel to. It's a little late now, but if that flywheel you put on is not from the same series it's not properly balanced for your engine and will cause damage. You'd be better off using your original counterweight and saving up for a lightweight flywheel... steels can be had pretty cheaply, and if you're car is 83 and up you can use one from a 2nd gen non-turbo.. direct bolt-on and your clutch will swap over too.

 

mines an 85... and started taking it apart, and i need new bearings(in rear, and the front one is seized to the shaft and i cant figure out how to get the intermediate housing off because i cant lift the shaft up to make room to tilt the housing), rear stationary gear looks good, so does the rotor (the bearing even looks good), signs of heat marking on the shaft, and there isnt anything like hearing an apex seal fly across the room and i cant find it, so im gonna have to get a rotor kit probably.. is there much difference in the one piece apex seals, and the 2 piece ones like i have? what about the solid corner seals? I've got the ones with the rubber inserts and a few of em the rubber has already deteriorated..

 

Get the 2 piece apex seals, solid corner seals and 3rd gen corner seal springs. Since you had a lubrication failure, replace all of the bearings and e-shaft. No point in taking a chance that one or more is out of spec.

 

Don't worry about lifting the E-shaft to get the intermediate off... the E-shaft is junk, just be careful with the Intermediate housing opening.

I'm thinking your shopping list should look something like this....

E-Shaft
Front Rotor
Rotor Kit (with the options Trochoid listed above)
all new bearings (rotor and mains)
new oil pump (upgrade to GSL-SE)
new torrington bearings and thrust plates
gasket kit

By the time it's all said and done you could get an Atkin's kit C and have new oil control rings as well. If your oil rings are good then you can save about $300 by ordering the parts seperately.

 

Ok i got a lot of photos of the internals, i had to cut the front main bearing off, the front rotor looks good, there is a weird spot on my rear housing, and like i said 1500 miles on it, and all the seals looked brand new(which they should since it was almost broke in all the way) stationary gears look good...

 

there's a good chance the front rotor bearing walked in its bore. you will need a new front stationary gear if it's bearing seized to teh shaft. post pics and we'll check it out.

has anyone said yet to get a new oil pump if there was an oil failure?

 

if your on a budget and the hard seals spec up OK then you can re-use them
though absolutely you will require new oil control rubbers and a generic water seal and gasket rebuild kit

if your rotor slots are worn,, and or you think your up for apex seals
try the goopy oversize seals that allow you to bring back worn rotor slots to better than factory tolerance
- i have just redone a 75 bridge 12a ( with the rare MDR 12a rotors ) and found the goopy oversize seals are just the ticket
factory tightest spec is 0.050mm,, mine are all 0.038 !

as for the corner seals,, either type is OK for mild ports,, but the solids are recommended for bridgeports

 

would anything really be that worn out after 1500 miles?

 

front bearing after i cut it off

 

front stationary gear

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=34649

rear housing with that pit i talked about

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=34646

front rotor bearing wear

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=34647

rear rotor wear marks

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=34651

front part of e-shaft

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=34630

rear stationary gear bearing wear marks

 

Parts can be destroyed in a matter of minutes with out lubrication. Stationary gears are toast, literally as they're blue from heat damage. I wouldn't trust the rotor bearings, rotors or o-ring carriers. You need to take better pics, more lighting.

 

I know they can, it may be the lighting, cuz i dont see blue markings on the stat gears, nd i was going to replace all bearings, and ill work on the pics , what about the pit in the back on the rear housing its got me worried... cuz if i have to buy a new housing im screwed

 

Thkz guys but im just gonna get rid of it all... tired of messing with it, i only got 1.2k for a rebuild and i need a vehicle asap....cuz my rx7 was my daily driver to college, and work...

 

scratch that last part, i left the screen up and my wife thought it would be funny to say that, im keeping it, just need some help... ill take some better pics tomorrow

 

I would recommend purchasing a rebuild video. I just rebuilt my first 12a. I had purchased Atkin's Rebuild video. I thought they did a good job on the video. I rewatched it about a dozen times and by the time I was ready to rebuild it, it was a nonevent.
I also read through the FSM quite a few times.
Good luck. I have a front rotor and counter weight that I will let go for cheap if you need them. I got the front and rear rotor and counter weight together. I just needed the rear rotor.
Good luck.

 

thanks, clykins ive been reading through the fsm a lot..waiting on my video...