Engine mods needed to run safely past redline.
09-12-07, 12:49 PM
#26
chatter is a function of a few things.
1. rpm
2. lubrication of the apex seal/rotor housing, the higher the friction, the more the seal is going to want to skip across the surface.
3. apex seal spring
its not uncommon to see bad chatter marks on high mile engines that have just been driven normally.
1. rpm
2. lubrication of the apex seal/rotor housing, the higher the friction, the more the seal is going to want to skip across the surface.
3. apex seal spring
its not uncommon to see bad chatter marks on high mile engines that have just been driven normally.
Thanks guys!
09-12-07, 04:50 PM
#28
Ok, wacky... you are confusing me again! What is the "pinning of the rotors" consist of? In order to run 8500+ safely, you need
Balanced internals
Higher oil pressure
Clearanced rotors on the face
Hardened Stationary Gears
3 Windowed Bearings
Am I missing anything?
Would Steel springs handle the higher RPMS? I know that is what carbons are for, but I dont want a rebuild every 20k miles
Balanced internals
Higher oil pressure
Clearanced rotors on the face
Hardened Stationary Gears
3 Windowed Bearings
Am I missing anything?
Would Steel springs handle the higher RPMS? I know that is what carbons are for, but I dont want a rebuild every 20k miles
09-12-07, 05:36 PM
#30
stock apex seals cannot handle over 8000rpms consistantly and reliably. if you don't want the short life carbons, then cough up $2k for the ceramics. They seal better than anything and last much longer than stock seals!!!! It's a one time purchase.
Wacky are you talking about a set screw in the rotor bearing to keep it from spinning?
Wacky are you talking about a set screw in the rotor bearing to keep it from spinning?
09-12-07, 09:09 PM
#33
FB+FC=F-ME
Youll want to underdrive the waterpump/alternator too,if high revs are going to be the norm.
Lets also not forget your tranny input shaft.It and its bearings, must survive the same high revs.
Do your pilot and throwout bearings as well,since more revs mean more spin for them too.
Lets also not forget your tranny input shaft.It and its bearings, must survive the same high revs.
Do your pilot and throwout bearings as well,since more revs mean more spin for them too.
09-12-07, 09:13 PM
#34
You guys............ the one thing people keep forgetting is the stock flywheel and clutch can't handle above 8500 rpms. Someone mentioned a scatter shield for the bell housing? This would be a wise investment for anyone taking any engine above 8500 rpms for any length of time.
09-12-07, 09:45 PM
#36
FB+FC=F-ME
I wouldnt doubt the stock flywheel and clutch are gonna be unhappy above redline.
But,considering the work and $$$ needed to safely pull 9-10K,its likely that any engine built to such specs is gonna have an aftermarket flywheel and clutch.Racing Beat sets a 10,500 RPM max redline on their stuff,but still insists upon a sheild for anyone exceeding 8,500.
But,considering the work and $$$ needed to safely pull 9-10K,its likely that any engine built to such specs is gonna have an aftermarket flywheel and clutch.Racing Beat sets a 10,500 RPM max redline on their stuff,but still insists upon a sheild for anyone exceeding 8,500.
09-12-07, 10:48 PM
#37
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I shift at 9200 in a race prepped/ported 12a with carbon seals. Motor is lots of fun, (would pull right past there w/o rev limiter) have a light flywheel with tilton clutch. No scattershield. There was a great thread in the race section a year or so ago about the issue of scattershield or no scattershield.
I would like to dyno with and without ceramic seals and see the difference. Wear does not seem to be a big issue. I have talked with several racers and they get 2-3 season on them.
03-18-08, 09:44 AM
#38
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Sorry if it's bad form to restart a dead thread. But I was about to post a question about realistic redline. After reading this, my thoughts seem to be confirmed. Last night I was driving it hard for the first time since bringing it home and changing all the fluids. I was topping out at 6 grand but it felt/sounded like it would keep charging forever. I love that sound! So, you guys think it's ok to take it up to 7 grand (or even slightly higher) every once in a while?I have a bone stock 85 GS.
03-18-08, 01:48 PM
#39
occasional bursts to 7500 rpms are okay especially if you have the lighter 83-85 rotors. you always want 10psi of oil per 1000rpms. Since the stock oil pressure regulator bypasses at 7500rpms there you go for that criteria.
the amount of engine wear is exponential once you get up there.
the amount of engine wear is exponential once you get up there.
03-18-08, 08:50 PM
#41
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So in theroy I should be able to pull about 75-8k everyonce in a while and not really have to worry about it destroying everything.. My mod list is below.. I usually take it to like 65-7k if im running it hard but other than that 55-6k. I guess it would depend on the size of the port job right?
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