EGR Question
03-16-04, 06:10 PM
#1
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EGR Question
Ok.....If i remove the EGR valve in the stock air filter canister/assembly (where the air comes in) will the carburator ice up or anything (I heard that can happen with cold air setups)? It just seems like the valve is blocking airflow.
If i take of the EGR hose completely will anything bad happen? Will i lose power or gain from disconeting the hose from the air filter?
If i take of the EGR hose completely will anything bad happen? Will i lose power or gain from disconeting the hose from the air filter?
03-19-04, 04:41 PM
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My bad
OK sorry your right its not an egr valve.......it channeles hot air from the stove to the intake and is controled by a temperature gauge inside. If i take this of so that only cold air comes in will i have a problem like running too lean or carburator iceing?
03-19-04, 05:06 PM
#4
not really, but why would you want to take it off. the amount of air entering the carb with the riser parts off will not improve your performance. it may help more dirt get into your carb and perhaps your engine. you wouldn't run lean and it's spring, i hope you wouldn't have too much of a problem of carb icing. well, if you went through a big puddle and water was splashing severly, it may enter your carb.
03-19-04, 05:48 PM
#5
The little metal shield around mine was rusted to ****, so I just took the shield and the hose out, and left the opening in the snorkel open where the hose connected.
It's not detremental at all, and from what I understand, the only reason for it is to expediate the "warm-up" process of the engine.. so yet another emissions thing.
My friend Eric drove his all throughout the Canadian winter without those parts (-40 degrees C some days) and didn't have any problems.
Jon
It's not detremental at all, and from what I understand, the only reason for it is to expediate the "warm-up" process of the engine.. so yet another emissions thing.
My friend Eric drove his all throughout the Canadian winter without those parts (-40 degrees C some days) and didn't have any problems.
Jon
03-19-04, 06:59 PM
#6
Old [Sch|F]ool
It's not to expedite warm-up, but to allow the car to run at *all* if it's humid and coldish.
I had one HELL of a problem with carb icing.
Remember how a carb works: As air goes through the venturi, it speeds up and therefore loses pressure. This pressure drop through the venturi is what draws up from the carb bowls, so the fuel comes out through the venturi boosters (the rings in the venturi).
Now what else happens when pressure drops. Water condenses out at higher temps than "normal". Also, the temperature of the air gets colder (ideal gas law: pressure goes down, temp goes down, pressure goes up, temp goes up). The drop in temp also causes more condensing-out since colder air can hold less water than hotter air.
So, what does this have to do with the heat riser stove? If the conditions are just "right", which happens a lot, the humidity in the air condenses out on the venturis and boosters. And then freezes. Right over the holes where the fuel comes out. Sputter, sputter, die on the side of the road.
The heat riser is there so that the engine gets its intake air from around the exhaust manifold, so it is hotter and thus less likely to freeze condensation in the carb, and the humidity in the air is less likely to condense out in the first place.
Even so, I had a lot of problems with it even with the heat riser stove in place and functional. Mainly because the exhaust manifold wouldn't get hot *right* away, the cooling jacket around the thermal reactor was a good insulator as well. So i kept a spray can of windshield de-icer always at the ready. Without fail the car would sputter and die a block away from home, so I'd rush out and spray the de-icer at the venturis. This did two things: It melted the ice, and the alcohol content primed the engine so it'd start right away. Usually it would only die once, after that the heat would have convected through to the outer shell of the thermal reactor and the engine would get warm air to the carb.
I had one HELL of a problem with carb icing.
Remember how a carb works: As air goes through the venturi, it speeds up and therefore loses pressure. This pressure drop through the venturi is what draws up from the carb bowls, so the fuel comes out through the venturi boosters (the rings in the venturi).
Now what else happens when pressure drops. Water condenses out at higher temps than "normal". Also, the temperature of the air gets colder (ideal gas law: pressure goes down, temp goes down, pressure goes up, temp goes up). The drop in temp also causes more condensing-out since colder air can hold less water than hotter air.
So, what does this have to do with the heat riser stove? If the conditions are just "right", which happens a lot, the humidity in the air condenses out on the venturis and boosters. And then freezes. Right over the holes where the fuel comes out. Sputter, sputter, die on the side of the road.
The heat riser is there so that the engine gets its intake air from around the exhaust manifold, so it is hotter and thus less likely to freeze condensation in the carb, and the humidity in the air is less likely to condense out in the first place.
Even so, I had a lot of problems with it even with the heat riser stove in place and functional. Mainly because the exhaust manifold wouldn't get hot *right* away, the cooling jacket around the thermal reactor was a good insulator as well. So i kept a spray can of windshield de-icer always at the ready. Without fail the car would sputter and die a block away from home, so I'd rush out and spray the de-icer at the venturis. This did two things: It melted the ice, and the alcohol content primed the engine so it'd start right away. Usually it would only die once, after that the heat would have convected through to the outer shell of the thermal reactor and the engine would get warm air to the carb.
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