kudu

What is your cap rated for the psi?

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

I can't remember for sure but a 16lb cap should be fine

kudu

With shoving your 26x19 radiator between the frame rails do you still have it in somewhat the stock position or do you have it moved forward or backwards in the engine bay? And I assume you just made/welded brackets to the closest point to be able to mount it.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

I moved the bottom of the radiator back towards the engine and then tilted it forward towards the OE radiator duct work. On the sides I made up the difference between the OE ducting with some aluminum. I made a lower mount out of steel to support the radiator and then bolted it to the frame on either side using 1/4" rivet nuts. I made hold down clamps out of aluminum to keep it in place.

Some of the other racers just moved their radiators back to a point where it would fit and sat them on a new mount. Then they made made new duct work out of aluminum to seal it up. The way I did it saved fabrication time but may be a little heavier.

A place to get ideas is at a race track. Look for SCCA/NASA events in your area and walk the paddock. At an SCCA event you will probably find an SA/FB to look over and get some ideas from.

kudu

okay that makes sense I was thinking about tilting it from the start so I’ll just have to figure out the angle and weld some brackets.

For your dual cooler setup do you still have the filter in the stock position on a pedestal or did you switch to a remote filter?

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

Filter is on the stock pedestal. I have a pressure and temperature block under it.

kurtf

iTrader: (3)

My pic's are on my device I left at work. So Here's a link to what I did on my SA . See post 24.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12326323

Bottom leans in towards the motor mount, just past the bulges in the frame rails. Have a 2" aluminum flat stock that seats perfectly between the flanges on the bottom of the rad. Simple angle at the top, no welding. Works so well I haven't needed to finish the ductwork. That would probably be necessary for your application and i will eventually get around to it.

kudu

Wow thank you! Was not expecting to get this much help on all of this. https://www.afcoracing.com/store.asp...-AN-Male-Inlet This is the unit I’m thinking about getting for my car. Just want to make sure I’m not understanding anything wrong before I make my purchase. I assume I can just block off the hole on the left and just use the inlet/outlet holes on the passenger side of the rad. If i’m understanding this right you tilted your radiator on the bottom so it was past that bar, for lack of a better term, more towards the motor side of it? Also I apologize but I am a little confused with your description of how you have to mounted on the bottom.

Oh wait right since rotaries already have the inlet/outlet for an oil cooler we don’t need to relocate the filter.

While I have two people that obviously have experience with race cars here. I’m about to order my fuel cell online and I’m going with a fuelsafe enduro cell. I was wondering what size lines would be a good idea to run. Not sure if running bigger or something due to my application is necessary. Also I’m running a weber 48 IDA so I won’t have a return line which i assume I can just block off on the tank. I’m running it inside the car as well for the time being(I may switch this setup later depending on clearance for future suspension modifications) not sure if this will be a good idea in the long run.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

My first comment is sh** radiators have gotten expensive! You might want to shop some of the circle track dealers like SpeedwayMotors and PitstopUSA to see if they have better pricing. The hole on the left side tank is for a pressure gauge so you can just plug it. Looks like getting an AN upper fitting makes these things allot more spendy. Is that necessary? By the way the biggest PITA was the size of the lower inlet. 1.75" is not a common size for off the shelf radiator hoses so I had to use an adapter.

I'll let Kurt comment on how he mounted his radiator. However, since the new radiator will be wider than stock and will not mount using tabs like the factory radiator you will have to move it back and create a lower mount to support it.

For fuel lines I ran -8 from the cell to the regulator and then to the carb. You really don't want any part of the fuel system inside of the car with you.

kurtf

iTrader: (3)

Pretty sure this is mine:
https://www.afcoracing.com/store.asp...e-Pass-Chevy--


It's a little wider which is why I had to lean the bottom in. The 26" might just fit in the factory spot but not really sure. The one on the link above has the integrated flanges top and bottom that made installation a breeze. Scott is correct about the bottom outlet but with a little head scratching I came up with something that works well. Pretty sure a close up is in one of my posts.

BTW, mustanghammer is the man. Not only did his write up inspire me to build my current car, every race build idea but one was swiped from him. Including my radiator set up.

kudu

No the AN size isn’t a necessary it was just the one I could find in that size. Also I just realized but there shouldn’t be anything specific I need for my radiator right if I run an electric water pump? And thank you for the outlet insight I’ll get an adapter then probably to make things work.

I’ll probably go with that one then. I like the mounting tabs on the bottom and it’s a bit bigger so slightly better cooling. Do you happened to have any photos of your cooling system. I like seeing them to get a better idea of stuff and a lot of the time I learn some stuff from them. If not it’s completely fine.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

I think the standard style inlet/outlet fittings should be fine with an electric water pump. Talk to the people that make the kits and do some research but it seems like AN water hoses would be expensive and heavy without offering much utility.

On the inlet hose, you will want to insert a radiator hose spring to keep it from collapsing. These were pretty common on molded inlet hoses. Google it, there are allot of options

kudu

Was it the inlet or the outlet hose that you had to put an adapter on for the sizing of it?

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

The one on the bottom. Look at the specs for Afco radiators. The lower hose nipple is 1.75" which is bigger than most off the shelf molded hoses. Hence the need to use something like these parts to adapt to a molded hose:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=9565
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=25711

Note that there are other radiator manufacturers out there that might be easier to work with. Speedway sells a line of Speedway branded aluminum radiators for example. There is also Griffin, Mishimoto, Be Cool...etc. What you need is a cross flow dual pass 2 row radiator with the inlet and outlet on the passenger side. Lots of people making them and stuff for Circle Track racers tend to be cheap. Just look at reviews and do your research.