I'm going to need a new clutch here sometime in the future and i was wondering what people think about dropping a gsl-se tranny? It would definately save on the cost. I don't have a lift, just simple jack and stands. Would it be worth it to struggle taking it out myself, i would think i could get it done in a weekend? Also does the exhaust have to be pulled down to gain access? Mine is a bit rusty and no torch available . Watcha think? ~Gavin

 

I've done mine on a weekend. It does help if you can get the exhaust out of your way. I think the most difficult part was lifting the tranny back up and getting it aligned. You may want to look into renting a tranny jack. It would probably make your life a lot easier.

Kent

 

If you don't have a friend helping you then I would also say rent a tranny jack. It isn't too dificult to do, but I really would try to get the exhaust out of your way. It isn't so bad, I would say go for it.

-Marques

 

I did the same thing this summer. Remove all the axhaust before string to remove the tranny and driveshaft. I just removed the exhaust bolts at the read (a little rusty, so I replaced them) and to my surprise the ones holding the first cat to the exhaust manifold were rusty but easy to take off. I replaced all the gaskets while I had it apart.

My brother helped me and we did it over 2 days, but you should be able to do it in one if the weather permits. If your in Canada you would have to be indoors right now.

I too had just jack stands and a couple of jacks. I used my hydraulic jack as a tranny lift with a little jig to hold it properly. Almost dropped once or twice though, even with 2 guys guding it in.

Ans yes, the alighment and getting it together are the hardest part. With the driveshaft off your engine will be pointing down a few degrees and you need to bring the tranny in at the right angle. I was worried I would jam something up when tightening the bolts down on the bell housing, but all went well and it works like a charm now.

Have fun and good luck.

 

I've done this two ways: once with a buddy and one jack and again with a buddy and two jacks. The first time it was hard, the second time it was still hard, but much less so. It depends on how much patience and/or money you have. Do it yourself and have fun or pay for it and feel safe. Its really up to you, but you CAN do it yourself.

Conway

 

Well my *** is in minnesota without a heated garage i spose i forgot about that aspect. My mechanic said he could throw it in for 160 labor not including parts 30-40 for flywheel reface if needed and ballpark 200 for clutch kit. I think thats gonna be my route.

 

man.. if I had the $$ to spend on labor I wouldn't have to bust my back this past Labor day (had to see doc, soft tissue sprain). Getting it off, a chimp can do it, but it's a PITA to get it all lined up and bolted through. The joy of learning ...ohh yeah a lot of leg cramps also. Nice if you're gonna have "them" do it...Next time I would also, unless I have a lift and a tranny jack.

 

I found it oddly easier to take the engine and tranny out at the same time. I have an engine crane, and I guess thats why it was easier...but I also had one stripped to hell bolt holding the engine to the bellhousing.

I love taking stuff apart....I just don't like having to try to put it back together.

 

Put the car up on jack stands/cinder blocks/wood blocks at all 4 corners first. You'll want it at least 1 foot up in the air.

I bungee cord the tranny to my floor jack and jack it up. Align input shaft with pilot bearing and slide it in. My foot helps to 'slide' it in. It's not a complex job but if you haven't done one before have a buddy who has come by and help or read the shop manual real good.

It's worth doing yourself to save the $$. Dropping the exhaust is immensively helpful in getting room to manuver the trans up there.

If nuts and bolts are rusted on, I've had real good success in soaking the nuts and bolts with PB B'laster 2-3 times a day for a week before the operation. For severely rusted bolts use a rust neutralizer on them first and scrub with wire brush. Then PB B'laster (or Liquid Wrench or WD-40).

 

Good prices for labor. Maybe Mazdatrix is better for parts: check it out.

B

 

209.09 to be exact and i don't have to pay the 20-30$ for shipping. I called VB and it came out to 215.70 total for their stock 3 in 1 clutch kit.

 

$201.81 from mazdatrix not including the shipping, that included the pressure throwout and alignment tool. My LUK repset comes with all those, so i think goin local is how its gonna have to be. I thought i remember someone saying that they were an authorized LUK dealer from a post but search didn't pop up anything. Oh well.