Driveability issues; Vehicle sitting for about a year
01-28-08, 05:16 PM
#58
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How can I make a timing mark? the link in the archives doesn't work anymore. Does anyone have a clue of how to remake a timing mark or know anyplace that would know how to make a timing mark. I begging I would really like to check my timing. Exhaust should be back on tonight or tom., but don't know when I'll have time to tune the carb and check for other problems. Thanks
02-03-08, 01:53 AM
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Ok I got the exhaust back together. Started it once ran really really rich, turned it off then went to start it to tune the carb, but wouldn't start. Carb is pooring fuel in, again. I rebuilt it unfortunarly im an idiot and listened to the directions to adjust my float tabs. I already tried taping it with a hammer didn't do anything. I pulled it off the car yesterday.
Should the fuel lvl in the glass window be half way when just the fuel pump is running or only when the car is actual idling? Also, I've read through most of the archive info, but couldn't find one that told me how to adjust yours float tabs.
Should the fuel lvl in the glass window be half way when just the fuel pump is running or only when the car is actual idling? Also, I've read through most of the archive info, but couldn't find one that told me how to adjust yours float tabs.
02-03-08, 05:23 AM
#60
Are you sure the fuel itself isn't bad? After about 6 months gasoline will turn into varnish. The car just won't run smooth on it at all. You may need to drain the tank. Hopefully it isn't rusting from the inside out.
I know this sounds like too simple of a "fix" but I've seen it occur on a few FBs.
I know this sounds like too simple of a "fix" but I've seen it occur on a few FBs.
02-03-08, 10:59 AM
#61
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I did empty out all the old fuel. But before I noticed the flooding problem the car was able to rev up without stumbling. When I emptied the fuel I emptied it by pumping it through the fuel pump. So there probably was a liittle bit of the old fuel sitting in the lines. How can I tell if I have rust in the fuel tank?
02-03-08, 01:22 PM
#63
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Float adjustment: with the air horn upside down, and the needles and seats installed, and the gasket on it, the tops of the floats should be about parallel to the bottom of the air horn. In other words, looking at the the side of the air horn, holding it upside down, the top of the float (the flat part) should look evenly spaced with the flat part of the air horn.
Got that? It's hard to convey with words, so if you don't understand, just say so. But if you're not at that point, you're not going anywhere. So start with that.
The timing marks...
These are already in the pulley. They were stamped in, and then painted, and are very tiny. No doubt the paint is gone and they are fairly rusted over, making them difficult to find.
Take some 320 wet-dry sand paper, or even dry steel wool, and go around the pulley. You will eventually find them. Then you will have to paint them with different color nail polish or enamel paint.
Get the carb straightened out first.
Got that? It's hard to convey with words, so if you don't understand, just say so. But if you're not at that point, you're not going anywhere. So start with that.
The timing marks...
These are already in the pulley. They were stamped in, and then painted, and are very tiny. No doubt the paint is gone and they are fairly rusted over, making them difficult to find.
Take some 320 wet-dry sand paper, or even dry steel wool, and go around the pulley. You will eventually find them. Then you will have to paint them with different color nail polish or enamel paint.
Get the carb straightened out first.
02-03-08, 03:25 PM
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Ok I think I know what your saying I drew it in the picture. the two red lines need to be parallel right? Also, If I flip the air horn the other direction does the float level matter? Thanks alot
02-07-08, 04:14 PM
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What are all the reasons a carb would overflow? I know theres float problems(stuck floats and floats to high), and air-valve, but is there any other reason for a carb to overflow? just want to check before I adjust the floats and reassemble
02-07-08, 04:43 PM
#69
No distributor? No thanks
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There are 5 things needed to get the float bowl where you want it.
Clean fuel circuit (hoses, filter, etc)
Clean needle and seat
Proper fuel pressure (not too high)
Proper float adjustment
Proper float weight (some designs can fill with fuel and will ride low)
If you ever get a pin-sized hole or crack in your float it'll take on fuel, so shake it around. If all those things are fine, your float level will be correct.
Clean fuel circuit (hoses, filter, etc)
Clean needle and seat
Proper fuel pressure (not too high)
Proper float adjustment
Proper float weight (some designs can fill with fuel and will ride low)
If you ever get a pin-sized hole or crack in your float it'll take on fuel, so shake it around. If all those things are fine, your float level will be correct.
02-15-08, 07:20 PM
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Ok got my floats adjusted by a carb shop. But now the carb is still flooding. I pulled my air solonoid out to see if that was the problem, but it still flooded. would pulling the air solonoid ventalate the float bowls and what else would cause flooding besides my pins, the float level, and the air solonoid? I'm probably goin to try checking my fuel pump tom.
02-18-08, 07:06 PM
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Ok I got the carburator working. she starts pretty easily, but is stumbling when it finally warms up. It slowly got worse as I tryed warming the car up. It wouldn't even rev above 1500, then it slowly stalles itself out. I'm goin to check timeing this weekend. Any other thinks I should look at if that doesn't make a difference?
02-21-08, 07:57 AM
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I had one that I think blew an apex. As long as I pulled the bottom plugs and blew out all the oil that settled there, she would start and run. She ran really crappy and had very little power, but it got me home and to the shop, and home, and to another shop....you get the picture...(hard to find someone here who knows anything about her) Don't know if that info helps at all...