Does anyone make Panhard kits anymore?
04-05-16, 12:33 AM
#26
Poly bushings will add one more thing to bind up the rear. In the watts link they will act like a bump stop because they will resist the rear axle twisting forward at the top when the suspension is compressed. More compression=more twist. There isn't much rotation in the middle of the travel range so they won't cause too much trouble.
The stock watts link is actually pretty well designed and the rear end moves almost straight up and down until the limits of travel. The only problem is the height of the roll center that it gives the rear of the car.
The stock watts link is actually pretty well designed and the rear end moves almost straight up and down until the limits of travel. The only problem is the height of the roll center that it gives the rear of the car.
04-07-16, 05:33 PM
#27
I have, a long time ago, pulled the springs and played with The axle bind. There IS a lot of movement. In fact I unbolted one of the upper links and it moved almost 3/4".
But I have not done the same with 3 link to see want the watts link is doing.
Running in NASA with the point system. I'm now looking at seeing if I can do just the 3 link.
Anything is better then what I'm dealing with now.
04-07-16, 05:43 PM
#28
Not good.
I have, a long time ago, pulled the springs and played with The axle bind. There IS a lot of movement. In fact I unbolted one of the upper links and it moved almost 3/4".
But I have not done the same with 3 link to see want the watts link is doing.
Running in NASA with the point system. I'm now looking at seeing if I can do just the 3 link.
Anything is better then what I'm dealing with now.
I have, a long time ago, pulled the springs and played with The axle bind. There IS a lot of movement. In fact I unbolted one of the upper links and it moved almost 3/4".
But I have not done the same with 3 link to see want the watts link is doing.
Running in NASA with the point system. I'm now looking at seeing if I can do just the 3 link.
Anything is better then what I'm dealing with now.
04-07-16, 09:31 PM
#29
Old [Sch|F]ool
Thread Starter
I still have the Watts with the 3 link. My 3 link extends up through the floor in order to clear the driver's side watts link at full stuff. Binding is not an issue. My suspension is very articulate 
My strength requirements are simple. I see a maximum of 60-70mph. I must be able to slide at that sideways speed into a rut about 4" deep and not break whatever my axle location is. Debeading a tire is acceptable, but the car must not break.
In reality, a hit that hard would probably roll the car, but any hit hard enough to roll the car will also end my weekend/season so if the suspension can handle those loads then that is enough strength and I don't need to go beefier than that.
My overarching mindset is that when the going gets rough, let everyone else lift, I want to beat them so I won't lift, and so I gotta make sure my car won't break. Lifting is losing. Or as I put it to someone who was asking how those of us at the apex of Mod RWD were so much faster than the rest of the class, at nationals in 2014: "You just gotta stand up, spread your legs apart, and grow a pair of big brass ones..."
My strength requirements are simple. I see a maximum of 60-70mph. I must be able to slide at that sideways speed into a rut about 4" deep and not break whatever my axle location is. Debeading a tire is acceptable, but the car must not break.
In reality, a hit that hard would probably roll the car, but any hit hard enough to roll the car will also end my weekend/season so if the suspension can handle those loads then that is enough strength and I don't need to go beefier than that.
My overarching mindset is that when the going gets rough, let everyone else lift, I want to beat them so I won't lift, and so I gotta make sure my car won't break. Lifting is losing. Or as I put it to someone who was asking how those of us at the apex of Mod RWD were so much faster than the rest of the class, at nationals in 2014: "You just gotta stand up, spread your legs apart, and grow a pair of big brass ones..."
Last edited by peejay; 04-07-16 at 09:39 PM.
04-08-16, 07:49 AM
#30
Senior Member
I think if you do adequete stiffening of the chassis you will be fine, that 3 link is pretty beefy, I would have concerns with the panhard setup being too low for rally.
04-08-16, 10:15 PM
#31
Unless you get rid of the upper arm bind I think urethane is a bad idea in any part of the rear end. With the stock system the bushings are a big part of what ends up being your roll stiffness. Urethane gives you the effect of adding a bigger rear bar.
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