DLIDFIS wiring
06-12-02, 12:25 AM
#51
Hunting Skylines
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 3,431
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally posted by Jeff20B
I just checked my pickups and they can't get close enough to be 90º I'm affraid.
However, if one is removed and flipped over, it's no problem!
Just drill out the copper rivets and flip it 180º and reattatch it to the metal thing. I've done a little testing on a flipped pickup and it still flashed the LED I was using. Not scientific, but it still worked.
I'm not sure what kind of fasteners to use to reattatch to pickups, but maybe they should be non-magentic like the copper rivets?
I just checked my pickups and they can't get close enough to be 90º I'm affraid.
However, if one is removed and flipped over, it's no problem!
Just drill out the copper rivets and flip it 180º and reattatch it to the metal thing. I've done a little testing on a flipped pickup and it still flashed the LED I was using. Not scientific, but it still worked.
I'm not sure what kind of fasteners to use to reattatch to pickups, but maybe they should be non-magentic like the copper rivets?
As soon as I get some twin post coils I'll be trying this. Speaking of which do you know if a single ignitor can handle a 2nd gen. coil?
Last edited by REVHED; 06-12-02 at 01:32 AM.
06-12-02, 12:33 AM
#52
Hunting Skylines
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 3,431
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally posted by Jeff20B
About the 0º L/T split and single fire on Leading, you're right that it wouldn't burn as much AF mixture as your current setup (he's still running DLIDFIS, I think).
About the 0º L/T split and single fire on Leading, you're right that it wouldn't burn as much AF mixture as your current setup (he's still running DLIDFIS, I think).
Last edited by REVHED; 06-12-02 at 01:33 AM.
06-12-02, 01:30 AM
#53
Hunting Skylines
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 3,431
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally posted by Jeff20B
Yes, the reluctor will need to be shaved so only two tips are sticking out. I'm thinking the two to keep are the ones that line up with the rollpin and the flat spot on the shaft (it points to rotor #1 afterall). But then again, it all depends on where your #1 pickup is.
Yes, the reluctor will need to be shaved so only two tips are sticking out. I'm thinking the two to keep are the ones that line up with the rollpin and the flat spot on the shaft (it points to rotor #1 afterall). But then again, it all depends on where your #1 pickup is.
The number one pickup is in the stock leading position. With the tally marks lined up the reluctor tip that corresponds with the flat spot lines up exactly with the #1 pickup.
Last edited by REVHED; 06-12-02 at 01:35 AM.
06-12-02, 02:15 AM
#54
I'm using a 12A dizzy. I had to pull the rubber tension relief thing away from the pickup coil. Now I get extremely close to 90º 
It may be exactly 90º as far as I can see (just eyballing it).
As far as I remember from the old threads, a 2nd gen Leading coil will burn up a J109 ignitor due to some sort of impedance mismatch.
Well, my weird 13B with wasted spark was a wonderful thing. Single fire, however, wasn't as good. Your engine is different so it'll probably be like it was before you started experimenting with your ignition.
I'm not sure how 0º split will affect NA engines. Anyone else?
It may be exactly 90º as far as I can see (just eyballing it).As far as I remember from the old threads, a 2nd gen Leading coil will burn up a J109 ignitor due to some sort of impedance mismatch.
Well, my weird 13B with wasted spark was a wonderful thing. Single fire, however, wasn't as good. Your engine is different so it'll probably be like it was before you started experimenting with your ignition.
I'm not sure how 0º split will affect NA engines. Anyone else?
06-12-02, 06:39 AM
#55
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
6 Posts
Leading/trailing split is just a psuedo spark duration attempt, right?
REVHED, where have you read experts suggesting a 0* split?
I mean, alot of times, or just one article?
Quoted from Jeff:
"I'm not sure how 0º split will affect NA engines."
How does it effect forced induction engines?
...And nobdy has any input on my idea? Anyone know the "Circuit City" term for this component I describe?
Jeff, I'm not talking Hall effect. I'm talking much simpler than all that. Everything would stay stock as far as pickups, and their location in the dizzy. It would just be an electronic distributer of the trailing pickup pulses in order to propt the correct ignitor to fire at the right time (alternate or every fourth pulse, depending on how many components you use).
Nice aluminum cap over the dizzy, no extra wires to another pickup squeezed in there, and retained dual leading igntion.
REVHED, I'm not trying to kill your attempts, but I just want some answers.
In the end whatever gets rid of the cap n' rotor and still gives good results is great by me.
I just thought what I'm proposing is much less work.
REVHED, where have you read experts suggesting a 0* split?
I mean, alot of times, or just one article?
Quoted from Jeff:
"I'm not sure how 0º split will affect NA engines."
How does it effect forced induction engines?
...And nobdy has any input on my idea? Anyone know the "Circuit City" term for this component I describe?
Jeff, I'm not talking Hall effect. I'm talking much simpler than all that. Everything would stay stock as far as pickups, and their location in the dizzy. It would just be an electronic distributer of the trailing pickup pulses in order to propt the correct ignitor to fire at the right time (alternate or every fourth pulse, depending on how many components you use).
Nice aluminum cap over the dizzy, no extra wires to another pickup squeezed in there, and retained dual leading igntion.
REVHED, I'm not trying to kill your attempts, but I just want some answers.
In the end whatever gets rid of the cap n' rotor and still gives good results is great by me.
I just thought what I'm proposing is much less work.
06-12-02, 07:54 AM
#56
Hunting Skylines
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 3,431
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Sterling, I'm sure it would be possible to build some sort of circuit to do what you're describing. I don't have a ******* clue what it would be though.
The L/T split is one of those things that seems to have two distinctive schools of thought. Rice Racing recommends 0* and he's someone who obviously knows what he's talking about. But, I've also heard people in the know who say not to run 0*. *shrugs*
I'm gonna go ahead and try this anyway. The dizzy is complete so all I have to do is get some dual post coils and hook up the wiring. I really think this should perform just as well as DLIDFIS as I don't see how the wasted spark can make that much of a difference. I'll let you know if anything blows up.
The L/T split is one of those things that seems to have two distinctive schools of thought. Rice Racing recommends 0* and he's someone who obviously knows what he's talking about. But, I've also heard people in the know who say not to run 0*. *shrugs*
I'm gonna go ahead and try this anyway. The dizzy is complete so all I have to do is get some dual post coils and hook up the wiring. I really think this should perform just as well as DLIDFIS as I don't see how the wasted spark can make that much of a difference. I'll let you know if anything blows up.
06-12-02, 02:07 PM
#57
Your little circuit would probably need a microprocessor to switch between the ignitors. But I too have no idea how to hook it up. Or it would need some sort of mini crank angle sensor to know which ignitor to fire and when. Or both. A Hall effect sensor might work in this case. Or an optical. Bah, now it's getting complicated!
I think NA engines handle 0º spark a little differently than forced induction ones do. Maybe? The HITman just did some dyno runs and found a little bit of split to be better than lots of split (or 0º split I think). I guess we could try it. I don't think it'll hurt our engines (we're still all NA right?).
I think NA engines handle 0º spark a little differently than forced induction ones do. Maybe? The HITman just did some dyno runs and found a little bit of split to be better than lots of split (or 0º split I think). I guess we could try it. I don't think it'll hurt our engines (we're still all NA right?).
Last edited by Jeff20B; 06-12-02 at 03:11 PM.
06-12-02, 04:35 PM
#58
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
36 Posts
You guys are total freaks!! 
Whenever you're getting ready to try the upgrades, make sure you get dyno time before and after with only the ignition change (which would include timing, if need be...). I'm sure enough interested parties would be willing to send small sums of $$$ to fund the dyno time if you're cash strapped. My dyno time was for 4 pulls, I could change small things inbetween and cost $75. Shoot for that vs. the $100 for an hour, although that might be better if you've got a lot of down time between changes or want to make a ton of pulls. Some places will give 3 pulls for $50. You just gotta find those places! 
Whenever you're getting ready to try the upgrades, make sure you get dyno time before and after with only the ignition change (which would include timing, if need be...). I'm sure enough interested parties would be willing to send small sums of $$$ to fund the dyno time if you're cash strapped. My dyno time was for 4 pulls, I could change small things inbetween and cost $75. Shoot for that vs. the $100 for an hour, although that might be better if you've got a lot of down time between changes or want to make a ton of pulls. Some places will give 3 pulls for $50. You just gotta find those places!
06-18-02, 04:32 PM
#59
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DLIDFIS timing
Originally posted by Jeff20B
Hey thanks mar3, but as I once told Sterling, I don't wish to get money for DLIDFIS. However, once I start building (manufacturing) my own ignition kits, I'll think about selling them for at least the cost to build them. But a little extra could help to develop new things. I don't know. The whole 'getting money' thing just doesn't feel right somehow.
xman, I'm glad you got it working! If your L/T split was previously set correctly, there is no need to retime it. However, if you'd like to get a different split, just loosen the two screws that hold the Trailing vacuum diaphram (pot?) and move it in or out while watching the Trailing mark move. I'm not sure of the specifics for a 12A, but I'm sure somebody else does.
Hey thanks mar3, but as I once told Sterling, I don't wish to get money for DLIDFIS. However, once I start building (manufacturing) my own ignition kits, I'll think about selling them for at least the cost to build them. But a little extra could help to develop new things. I don't know. The whole 'getting money' thing just doesn't feel right somehow.
xman, I'm glad you got it working! If your L/T split was previously set correctly, there is no need to retime it. However, if you'd like to get a different split, just loosen the two screws that hold the Trailing vacuum diaphram (pot?) and move it in or out while watching the Trailing mark move. I'm not sure of the specifics for a 12A, but I'm sure somebody else does.
Thanks for the timing info Jeff. I kinda figured that's how it was done, but just wanted to make sure. Better safe than sorry (especially when your x is your only vehicle!)!
06-20-02, 12:56 AM
#60
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,989
Received 2,688 Likes
on
1,903 Posts
Originally posted by Jeff20B
As far as I remember from the old threads, a 2nd gen Leading coil will burn up a J109 ignitor due to some sort of impedance mismatch.
As far as I remember from the old threads, a 2nd gen Leading coil will burn up a J109 ignitor due to some sort of impedance mismatch.
mike
20b fc and soon to be t2 gsl-se
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
toplessFC3Sman
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
6
03-20-18 01:54 PM
