Ok, so a while back, i wanted to do the DLIDFIS mod on my car, but I just couldnt find a tutorial with pics and a step-by-step guide of how to do it. So, I decided once i did it, i would make my own tutorial so that others may be benefit from it.

What you'll need:

-2 DR100 Ignition Control Modules ($29.99 @ autozone)
4 self-drilling screws small enough to go thru the holes, yet long enough to bite into metal.

-Wire wheel (sandpaper, anything to strip paint)

-1 spare stock coil or 2 new ones (I chose new ones)

-some way to mount 2 coils (I used an extra coil bracket)

-Small Wire (I used 16ga, not sure how much as i have large rolls)
2 male and lots of female spade connectors
5 small ring terminals

-Larger Wire (I believe i used 10ga, not sure how much)
3 small ring terminals for the larger wire
3 female spade connectors

Now, lets get to the fun part.

Step 1)

Find a good spot, and mount 2 of your coils. I chose to mount them on the side of my strut tower, i just took a spare coil bracket and welded it there, like this:


Step 2)

Find a good spot to mount your new ignitors. i chose the top of the strut mount, it fit perfect, so why not? Strip the paint off of this section:


Step 3)

Mount them suckers! (pic later haha)
DO NOT, i repeat, DO NOT forget to put the heatsink on the bottom of them. they can and will get very warm.

Step 4)

Remove your leading ignitor. It was here (front side of the dizzy):


Step 5)

Wiring!! fun stuff here... it would take entirely too long for me to describe what wire goes where, so i went to paint (of course!):


to connect the wires where the old ignitor was, take your 2 male spades and cut about half off (maybe more, dont really remember) then bend whats left at a 90 degree angle and put it in the old connector, like this:


the switched hot i used was the wire going to the positive side of the stock leading coil; connected it with a ring terminal, since i left the stock coil there just in case.

only use the larger wire straight off the battery to the relay and from the relay to the coils, as this is the only place it is needed.

Step 6)

Put the coil wire from the trailing coil in the leading coil wire spot, and transfer over the trailing plug wires to their respective places.




Yay!! youre done. start the car and drive it and show off what you did all on your own.

this is basically the finished product, with a couple wiring issues that i figured out. Follow the wiring diagram above and you can not go wrong.


If you have any questions, post or pm! happy modding!

 

good job.

 

nice.. would point out you probs need to mount the modules to alum plate for a decent heatsink required in some ambient conditions
( we use a different module in oz but the same applies )

and that s1 electronic dizzy will need trigger colours reversed
.. or maybe the vane in the dizzy flipped over

 

Jesus Christ thank you! This seriously cleared it up for me so much.This should be archived imo. It's going in my bookmarks that's for sure.

 

What it's the relay and switched hot in your diagram? I'm electrical retarded.

 

A few things to note:

1. Depending on the dizzy used you may have to flip the signal leads from the dizzy to get the
right timing. (SA vs FB dizzies) Use an FB dizzy for best results.

2. Make sure to mount the DR100 with a screw through the hole with the metal collar so it
get a good ground.

3. You can also use 7 pin HEIs as well, which are easier to find in the JY.

4. Twist the dizzy leads together to help keep cross talk to a minimum. Might want to wrap
them in foil as well. Can't hurt.

 

you need wire looms and zip ties in your life, sir.

Also, when I did this mod 4 years ago I also did the spades cut in half for the dizzy connectors. It nearly destroyed the factory connections and made the mod so it could never be reversed. IE, dist was "bad" bc the loose connections which resulted from the spades made it so the j109 stock ignitors would work intermittently. Sucked having to test my spark plugs for fire at every stop. Couldnt keep both firing until I soldered the connections after that.

I should also add that I used MSD 6al's as my ignitors, and the reason I switched back to stock was that those boxes only lived for 4-5k miles at a time.


ALSO, that s1 dist WILL fire with the pickups wired backwards, but its far from right. It will run like total crap and the engine will bounce around like crazy. Think out of timex10.

GL with it...

 

I did this mod almost 2 months ago, haven't had any problems so far... car runs good so id say the connections are probably right?? Lol I could try switching them but I'm pretty sure they're good.

 

wow, actually i forgot to mention that i DID switch them and the car DID run much better. good eye bumpstart & wankel=awesome.

 

lol

 

just figured id clear that up lol but it was like forever ago

 

I just bought some Chinese made ignitors on ebay. 10 bucks a piece tried it worked good.

 

thanks bikeordie092 for the colorful diagram,

but what/where on the car is the relay that you show in your paint diagram?

the dr100 ignitors are $39 each?

and the GM HEI ignitor, which one?

 

the relay is just a general purpose 4 pin relay thats like 5 bucks at the local parts store.

the dr100 is a GM HEI ignitor used in this one, and at the time i bought them they were $29 each at autozone with a lifetime warranty. i havent checked lately so im not sure if they went up in price or not.

i hear you can use the 7-pin GM ignitor, but i have not personally done it that way. this way seemed very easy to me...

 

hey! on an off note, someone tweeted my tutorial???

thats what it says down there \/

 

You can use the 7 pin HEIs. See the link in my sig for the details.

 

very nice. what's this about the 7-pin being able to handle better amperage? i did notice a few times, tho it may have just been my motor on its way out, that my car didnt like to rev past about 6 or 6.5k every once in a while.

 

What kind of power gain can one expect from doing this?

Leks

 

seems more like better throttle response, but the butt dyno likes it alot lol

 

This is good advice to twist the leads together, the frequencies we are working with here aren't that high, but doing this will suppress electrical noise emissions and also help reject outside interferences (although the ignition system is probably the largest noise source around).

I would not however wrap the wires in foil unless you can properly ground that foil at the near and far ends, which I think would be difficult to achieve in this environment. Ungrounded shields will likely cause more problems than they solve by generating unwanted EMI. I am an electrical engineer who works with twisted pair communications systems, so I know about this stuff, if not much else.

 

Might be measurable but the gains are easier starts, better idle and more
dependable ignition with easy to source replacment parts.

Redarding the 7 pin HEIs. Some of them can handle more current that the 4 pins.
The 4 pins are like 6 amps I think, the OEM ignitors are 4 at most and the 7 pins
can be higher than 6, I want to say 7-8 but don't quote me. Would have to look up
the part specs to be sure on all of this.

 

DerrickS, you only have to ground one end.

 

tgfarrell is right, my car started wayyy easier and idled a billion times better.

 

Seeing this as having some of the better diagrams out there was great, so thanks for that. My question is what is the purpose of the relay? From what I can tell it looks like the purpose of the relay is to ground out the power side of the coil when you try to turn the car on, but maybe I'm seeing that wrong. I managed to get mine running without the relay, in fact it wouldn't fire with the relay, so I'm kinda wondering if I did something wrong or if maybe my setup could hurt something. My setup is basically everything in the wiring diagram minus the relay and 1 ignitor and swap the coil with a 2nd gen coil. Oh I also gutted and rewired the internals of the j109 that failed and used that for the blade connectors.

 

Relay is just so the coils don't get power while the engine is off.