resjsu

Fixed the whole lights on when key isnt problem.


But now when key is in on position, their is power going into the igniters but not coming out of them?

I checked with the light thing that you ground and check.

I know i wired it right i double checked it so why is there no power getting through these new igniters?

resjsu

The only thing i can think of is that these igniters i bought have 2 tiny plastic protrusions on their underside that do not allow their metal backs to sit flat, instead about %50 of their metal backs actually touch.

Would this make them unable to pass a current?

I didnt want to cut those things off for fear i would ruin the igniterz.

well since no one is on, i guess i will go try it anyways....

resjsu

well it didnt work, even with the complete backside of the igniterz touching, still no current..

help...........

resjsu

"im desperate" => bump to the top!

resjsu

would me stock coils not be powerful enough to trigger my 2 new hei igniters?

DavidMyers53

Here's a link to the thread on my DLIDFIS install pictures:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=dlidfis

If you look closely at Jeff20B's wiring diagram, and my pics and description, you'll see that this is a very simple install. Let me reiterate:

I left the trailing coil completely stock (including wire location in distributor to make it easier to make temporary fix if I blow new leading ignitor).
I abandoned the stock leading coil except for an ignition source for the 12V relay.
I already had a gutted J109 in place to use for wiring connections (had already converted to 1 HEI ignitor 'caus I couldn't find a good J109)

My goals were to improve the ignition with new parts for reliability and performance.

Read through my post again and let me know if you have any questions.

I'm not an expert on DLIDFIS as Jeff20B (and others- see debate) invented it but I can answer questions about the install I did.

My car fired right up, runs fine (better than ever!), and I haven't had any problems in the 200-300 miles I've put on it since the conversion (no, I don't get to drive it enough).

-David

resjsu

Ok so now my system is exaclt y like ^^ David Myers except for 1 msd blaster coil.

I know something is wrong witht he ignition switch because when i turn the key off the car stays on. I connected the switch wire to the positive terminal of the old leading coil that is no longer in use, exactly like his.

Also the car will die unless i constantly rev it.

Lastly I dont know where the tach wire is and i dont have it connected.


3 last problems people help me out!!!!!!


but at least it starts because my battery was dying.


thnx
Aure

DavidMyers53

It sounds like you may have your 12 V relay ignition input connected to a constant 12 V source (always on) rather than an ignition source (only on when ignition key on).

With the dying problem, did the car do this before you started working on it? If, not it sounds like you're only running on trailing ignition, or just one of your leading coils is working.

The tach works off the trailing coil- not sure where or how it connects. Did you move any wires on the trailing ignition?

- David

resjsu

I copied your setup. Im not using the stock leading coil and i connected the "switch" wire to the + side of it?

Both stock coils have a wire from the original harness connecting to the postive terminal and this is a constant power source?
Is the ignition switch connected to the negative side of the leading stock coil?

resjsu

No the trailing coil has everything that it originally had.

The car starts (after revving it) will not stay on unless i keep revving it.

Each plug wire is getting a good spark. I took each one off and checked the spark with a screwdriver to a ground, and each one had a continuous strong spark.

The car did not do this before the mod at all.

Could it be the spark plugs maybe? i will check anyways...

oh yeah it also backfires ... small putts consistently and then a couple bigger ones and continues....

resjsu

brand new spark plugs, car will idle but very very low at 200 rpm's.

it idle'd fine before this so i dont think its a fuel problem? it has new fuel pump and filter.

is it the tach wire that im missing that could be doing this?

imma see if i can at least drive it to see if i can go to school tommarrow.

resjsu

its DRIVEABLE!

from a stop it sux, have to give it lots of gas, but damn after 2000 it pix up!
defintie power gain! all the gears feel awesome EXCEPT for 1st.

1] i didnt touch the carb or anything fuel related so how can it be a fuel problem?

2]could it be timing?

3]i cant find the tach wire need help! need pic's need something! anyone please!

thanks
Aure

DAVID GRIMES

resjsu

i swear! why the **** would i lie? it barely idles but it ******* idles. I had to count down from 1000 because i never seen it idle that low.

man someone delete that ****, im not aksing questions for my own ******* humour, i need some damn help and that **** doesn't help at all.

also when i test drove it, i couldnt let the clutch out too much because it felt like it was going to die...at this point my tach wasn't working.... when my tach actually registered the engine picked up and i could then let the clutch out.


thanks again, (except David for his last reply - took time to post that **** but cant help out. Go to the 2nd gen forum)

Aure

DavidMyers53

Aure,

You said you only have 1 MSD coil. I remember reading in a post somewhere that for DLIDFIS, both leading coils should be the same. I think they also have to be capable of working with electronic ignition (like the MSD Blaster coils).

- David

resjsu

Yeah the leading coils are different but both of them new. I asked the guy at Kragen and he said I could use them together because they only had 1 MSD.

resjsu

Even though they are different could they be causing this? they feel excellent after 2000rpm's?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You haven't checked your timing yet have you? It might be as simple as swapping the W and G wires around. That happened to me once when I used GM HEI ignitors. Now I can't remember which color (red or green) went to which terminal on the ignitors. Anyway the timing was clearly off several degrees and switching them fixed the problem.

resjsu

As in David Myers walkthrough
G is NEGATIVE and
W is POSITIVE

i will switch them if they wont cause harmful effects.....

im going tot ake it my mechanic to check the timing... any specifications on timing?

resjsu

well i switched them and this is what happened...

When switched, my car revs a little higher but feels very weak after 2000 compared to other wiring.

Original wiring (DavidMyers) revs low at 200 (uploading video to prove it) but damn it kicks in after 2000.


still need info on tach wire please...



Aure

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

The tach wire is on trailing's - coil.

I have to look more into this and I havent read the entire thread but if you have a timing gun, use it to determine if you're getting spark (leading) while the car is idling rough.

resjsu

I let the car idle and checked sprak with a screw driver in each plug wire one at a time and touched it to a ground. Again they were all sparking strongly and continuously.

Ive been reading the Haynes manual and cant find the wire?

It is on the trailing coil? I havent taken anything off the trailing coil? so then it is where it has to be? I have only added wires from the stock trailing igniter to reach the trailing coil.

resjsu

video is up and running on youtube heres the link:
Its only a 15 sec video to prove, yes it was revving at 200 rpm's. I gave it gas so you guys could see it was even revving at all and to watch it fall back down to 200.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8NG8zyJQq0

Latin270

vid not working?

resjsu

Thats wierd, i waited till it said available to post it?
I dunno then sorry.... if you really wanna see it i can email it to you, only 1.5 mb's.