wankel=awesome

...I finally had the time to fully wire up my DLDFIS and MSD 6al this weekend, only to find out it wouldnt start.

My first suspicion was that it wasnt getting spark, but I tested the spark from the plugs on the shock tower bolts and all four fire. I put some starting fluid in, and whaddya know, it started.....and then quit.

Ive determined the problem is fuel delivery...but why? What part of the fuel system was altered by changing the ignition? Unhooking the ignitor? Not using the original leading coil wire?

For referance to how i did it, i followed the mazspeed tutorial exactly....it did not comment on fuel problems.....

My dad tested the fuel pump, and it supposedly works, but the pump simply isnt pumping gas....My dad thinks its a wiring short, and is determined that DLDFIS is the culprit......

glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/19...ingDiagram.pdf

Does everything else work?
Do you have current at fuel pump when the key is in the "ON" position?
Can you hear the full pump when the key is in the "ON" position?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Since you have an '85, the fuel pump will only run when the car is cranking or running. The signal for running comes from the trailing coil (-) terminals (same for the tach). If you removed this wire, that would explain the problem. Another option is to bypass the fuel pump relay so that the fuel will run whenever the key is 'ON' (like the older 1sr gens). There is a thread on how to do it. Try searching for "fuel pump relay bypass".

Good luck.

Kent

glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the incorrect advice.
I guess thats why you got your name in bold kent

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

You're advice wasn't incorrect, really. He didn't state the year/model, so either you have to guess or look at his profile like I did.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm not sure what you're trying to hook up, but I do know this: DLIDFIS and MSD are mutually exclusive.

Yeah, I know. Not very helpful. I still not had a chance to mess with 1st gen ignition systems. All my experience is on older previously points powerd rotaries and rotary conversions where it's wired from scratch. I don't know what color wire does what on a 1st gen.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

My understanding (from a different thread) is that he is using 2 MSD boxes and 3 coils. I don't know if he is doing 1 MSD box per leading coil (leaving trailing stock) or 1 MSD for both leading w/ 1 MSD box for trailing.

Personally, I would have done the 2GCDFIS and saved a couple hundred bucks and saved time installing it too.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I agree with that statment.

wankel=awesome

Ok, I actually am not so stressed on income that I need the cheapest stuff, so I decided I would test both 2GCDFIS and DLDFIS.

I have a second gen coil (88) from My GXL, and was waiting to get this mastered first for dyno comparisons and highway testing, then I was going to switch to the "better" 2GCDFIS system so I could comment on both systems.

Anyways, last night I hotwired the fuel pump and turned the ignition key, and WHAM!
I started right up.....but it ran like crap and died a few times before I gave up.

BTW, as of now Im using 1 MSD box, 3 blaster "3" coils, a custom wire kit, and a new rotor cap, new button, new ignitor (trailing) and i also have one for the leading side if it can be used.

Oh yeah, I also noticed that My tach wasnt working either.....and there may be other things too....I just havent tested every wire in the harness yet

Yes, the car is a 1985 Mazda Rx7 GSL, stock everything (except ignition)

wankel=awesome

Also, i have the trailing coil hooked up as stock, but the original leading coil wires are taped up....This the problem?

glewsRx

iTrader: (1)

Oh- I know this one.
Tach works off the trailing. So that would mean that your trailing aint working. would also explain some of the running like ****.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Something is not right..either the trailing ignitor is unplugged or you did something on the trailing (wiring, etc.). No trailing means no tach and would explain the fuel pump issue. However, no trailing would not change the way it runs. Maybe you have your ignitors swapped and are running leading off of trailing ignitor or your plug wires are crossed, etc. Go back and re-check everything.

wankel=awesome

Actually, after viewing my wiring diagram, it seems that the coil closest to the headlight is the trailing. I have it hooked up as the leading....meaning my leading wires that are taped up and not connected are actually my trailing wires.......HEHEHE. I figgguerd it out.


"Well, theres your problem."

My bad, "DLIDFIS."


Im going to try this before work....Awesome i really think i have this problem nailed.

wankel=awesome

It worked. It really worked....

After figuring out the wiring problem, the car started up great, and ran pretty much like my GXL, aside from the difference in the sound of Its idle because of the carburetor.

And then, I put on the second gen coil.....ALMOST IDENTICAL! Give or take a few hundred dollars..... But here are my results...(not dynoed yet)

The 3 Blaster 3 HEI coils 1 MSD box and B7EIX's on the leading, and B9EIX's on the trailing, and 8.5 MM superconductor wires=More responsiveness all the way around, better idle, started up faster, warmed up faster, and felt WAAAAY more responsive in the high RPM's. I drove it, and it felt stronger, but without the dyno tests i dont know...even without a power increase, this is an impressive mod.

One 88 Mazda RX-7 leading coilpack+MSD 8.5mm Superconductor wires, MSD box and B7EIX's on leading B9EIX's on trailing = Almost the same result to my surprise. It gave all of the positive traits that the three coil set up for a fraction of the price.....however, it didnt feel as strong as my 3 High performance coils, whichh I believe is DLIDFIS's only advantage.

One final note...Both DLIDFIS and 2GCDFIS made the car sound a bit different...The tone of the engine increased in body and is a bit louder (not the exhaust note)

wankel=awesome

If anyone has any questions on specifically what parts i used, PM me and Ill get you all the part numbers and refer you to MAZSPEED.com for tutorial+some of my personal advice.

john smack

iTrader: (12)

I slowly worked my way up the direct fire ignition ladder starting with first stock, then i hooked up a MSD box to the leading, then I hooked the 1 MSD box up and ran two coils off of it, But my best results came when I put two MSD boxes running 1 coil each!
So crisp in the upper RPMs
Great on idle and cold start up

rearviewmirror

Can you just post it here?

1stGenJake

ill have to search for a write up for two msd boxes per leading coil. is it really noticeable/worth it??

wankel=awesome

Okay, Ill get part numbers and the link is: www.mazspeed.com/msd.htm

As for one coil per two plugs...i dunno...the idea is to shorten the route of the spark and make it more direct. Two coils attacted directly to the plugs is completely direct. And also, the distributer sucks. It has the spark move through its entire process before making it jump the gap between the rotor button and cap before it even gets to the sparkplug where it must make another jump from electrode to post.

My *personal* info is where to mount the box. INSIDE TEH STORAGE BIN! Or mount them like John Smacks.

john smack

iTrader: (12)

you could relocate the battery to inside the car then put the MSD's where the battery is.