ditch gastank for a fuel cell... safe for street?
#1
ditch gastank for a fuel cell... safe for street?
hey im thinking about getting this http://www.fullthrottleraceparts.com/rjs11102-1.htm
i want to put it in the rear hatch area and make a cover for it and carpet it so its a clean install....
will this be safe for a near daily street car?
im going to begin a weight loss program for my car soon..
let me know
-greg
i want to put it in the rear hatch area and make a cover for it and carpet it so its a clean install....
will this be safe for a near daily street car?
im going to begin a weight loss program for my car soon..
let me know
-greg
#4
I dont see why it wouldnt be safe for the street. Actually, the more I think about it, the more I think all race cars should be street legal . Hell, they have more laws and rules about the way the car has to be in shape than we do for normal daily drivers...
~T.J.
~T.J.
#5
i dont exactly see the pont of getting one of those for a daily driven car. seems like a hastle. every time you get gass you going to pop the hatch and look like your pumping gass in to your spare tire?
how much weight can this realy reduce? i would save the money and put it in to some thing else. reduce weight by getting rid of A/C. PS. ect..
this is just my opinion. so its prolly wrong but i will stick to it. for im to hard headed to do other wise.
how much weight can this realy reduce? i would save the money and put it in to some thing else. reduce weight by getting rid of A/C. PS. ect..
this is just my opinion. so its prolly wrong but i will stick to it. for im to hard headed to do other wise.
#6
reduce weight by getting rid of A/C. PS. ect..
im going to ditch my cruise control cause it dosent work...... but thats what like 1 pound?
-greg
#7
Yeah fuel cells are weight loss,but not when you get a 15 gal cell,
maybe a 5 gal,but how much are you really saving on a 15 gal,and them bitches run about 3-600.$
Get some N20 for that much
maybe a 5 gal,but how much are you really saving on a 15 gal,and them bitches run about 3-600.$
Get some N20 for that much
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#11
The biggest downside I see is that you're moving a slightly larger amount of gas (assuming you fill the 15, which is the smart thing so it doesn't slosh as much) up at least a foot. To me, any weight reduction is compromised by that because it messes up the cars center of gravity and the weight distribution is kinda weird. The only reason I would ever go to a fuel cell is if I needed to replace my tank or I was entering a race class that required it. If your problem is that the stock tank can have fuel starvation when it gets really low, you could always rip that open and throw some baffles in there. But as far as weight reduction goes, I don't think you're going to get the hoped for results.
#12
I have taken out my stock tank, and put it back in.
When Empty, it probably 10-15 lbs MAX.
I don't think it's worth the headache for that amount of weight. Especially good weight which is right over the axle with a low center of gravity.
When Empty, it probably 10-15 lbs MAX.
I don't think it's worth the headache for that amount of weight. Especially good weight which is right over the axle with a low center of gravity.
#14
summit has house brand gas tanks with fuel gm fuel level sensors( similar resistance ot stock sensor) and foamed for $180 similar size to what you were looking at. im probably going to install one in my car.
#15
These guys are right, A. you are going to need that weight over the rear wheels, or else you'll be spining all day, fun yes, effective, no. It was a very good idea, youre on the right train of thought, just keep playing Chess, not Checkers, think 3 moves ahead, ehrgo, the lighter fuel cell would upset the center of gravity in the car, and your weight dist.
#16
I say go for it!!!
It's safe, our 2002 cadillac has a plastic tank from factory. But I'd try and find a way to mount it underneath. even if you'd have to cut the spare tire hole and weld a flat piece of sheet metal in place. That you reduce weight big time. I seen it done on a 3rd gen. Except the plate was bolted in place.
It's safe, our 2002 cadillac has a plastic tank from factory. But I'd try and find a way to mount it underneath. even if you'd have to cut the spare tire hole and weld a flat piece of sheet metal in place. That you reduce weight big time. I seen it done on a 3rd gen. Except the plate was bolted in place.
#17
Originally posted by JIMMY54
I say go for it!!!
It's safe, our 2002 cadillac has a plastic tank from factory. But I'd try and find a way to mount it underneath. even if you'd have to cut the spare tire hole and weld a flat piece of sheet metal in place. That you reduce weight big time. I seen it done on a 3rd gen. Except the plate was bolted in place.
I say go for it!!!
It's safe, our 2002 cadillac has a plastic tank from factory. But I'd try and find a way to mount it underneath. even if you'd have to cut the spare tire hole and weld a flat piece of sheet metal in place. That you reduce weight big time. I seen it done on a 3rd gen. Except the plate was bolted in place.
#18
does anyone know if fuel cells are actually safe for use in the vehicle, meaning in the rear hatch area, i'm wondering if you would be smelling gas all the time and al the fun stuff. anyone that has actually done this to their 1g or whatever, pls explain how hard the install was....
#19
I'm currently wrestling with a 16 gallon fuel cell from Summit in my rotary GLC project.
I got the car with the stock tank and the cell sitting in the hatch. Several of the pieces required to mount the stock tank have been lost by the previous owner(s), so I was out of luck without hunting wrecking yards for GLC parts; something I wasn't looking forward to, especially since there was a perfectly good fuel cell sitting there.
The previous owner had removed the spare tire well by drilling out the spot welds and he took an angle grinder to the rest. Then he welded in a flat piece of sheet metal with a rectangle cut-out for the sump. Only he goofed up bigtime. Get this- he cut the hole for the sump such that it fits better facing forward. That means that under heavy acceleration, the fuel pump will run dry. Not to mention that it would be up inside the hatch and get in the way of hauling groceries etc.
My solution was to do some tweaking below the sheet metal and mount the cell under it. It took a little hammering and bending, but it now fits.
The only thing left to do is figure out how to mount the sucker. The supplied brackets are supposed to wrap around the cell and bolt to the car at the bottom. I'm having a hard time getting it all to work flipped around because the cell is wider at the bottom because that's where it was fused together from two plastic molds. Anyway, I've thought of a few solutions. Maybe one will work out?
I'll still have to pop my hatch to fill 'er up, but at least the sump will be facing the correct direction, and it'll be lower in the car. Also, I rewired the GM sender so it'll work with the stock Mazda (GLC) guage.
nefarius, there is a vent fitting at the top of the cell which can be routed outside of the car, or to a charcoal canister (probably).
I got the car with the stock tank and the cell sitting in the hatch. Several of the pieces required to mount the stock tank have been lost by the previous owner(s), so I was out of luck without hunting wrecking yards for GLC parts; something I wasn't looking forward to, especially since there was a perfectly good fuel cell sitting there.
The previous owner had removed the spare tire well by drilling out the spot welds and he took an angle grinder to the rest. Then he welded in a flat piece of sheet metal with a rectangle cut-out for the sump. Only he goofed up bigtime. Get this- he cut the hole for the sump such that it fits better facing forward. That means that under heavy acceleration, the fuel pump will run dry. Not to mention that it would be up inside the hatch and get in the way of hauling groceries etc.
My solution was to do some tweaking below the sheet metal and mount the cell under it. It took a little hammering and bending, but it now fits.
The only thing left to do is figure out how to mount the sucker. The supplied brackets are supposed to wrap around the cell and bolt to the car at the bottom. I'm having a hard time getting it all to work flipped around because the cell is wider at the bottom because that's where it was fused together from two plastic molds. Anyway, I've thought of a few solutions. Maybe one will work out?
I'll still have to pop my hatch to fill 'er up, but at least the sump will be facing the correct direction, and it'll be lower in the car. Also, I rewired the GM sender so it'll work with the stock Mazda (GLC) guage.
nefarius, there is a vent fitting at the top of the cell which can be routed outside of the car, or to a charcoal canister (probably).
#20
Originally posted by 81Rex6port13b
...every time you get gass you going to pop the hatch and look like your pumping gass in to your spare tire?
...every time you get gass you going to pop the hatch and look like your pumping gass in to your spare tire?