1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Dissapointed :(

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Old 05-30-07 | 10:08 AM
  #26  
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From: Cartersville, Ga
^^ i had the same problem. i also had some inital problems with the doors shutting without extra force. that eventually went away. im still getting leaks, but i think its from the sunroof.
Old 05-30-07 | 11:01 AM
  #27  
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From: Spartanburg, SC
Originally Posted by lwnslw
Look at the door striker closely........
Does it look like it has an adjustment?????
The screws are set in a recessed area and will not let you "move it closer" to the body. Once you tighten the screws they will set themselfs back into the recessed area.
Good Luck
L8R
the holes behind the stricker r larger than the screws and alows movement up and down and side to side. then there's a threaded piece the screws go into so when tightened, the sheet metal is sandwiched between the stricker and the threaded piece behind it.
Old 05-30-07 | 11:10 AM
  #28  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by XLR8
I also have replaced my seals. I noticed after I replaced the stripping was my door hinges were sagging. The top of the door frame was not running parallel with the body taper it was suposed to be fitting in. After lifting up on the rear of the door, I noticed there was a fair amount of play in the door hinges, causing the door to sag.

I was having problems with the stripping staying on the rear of the door. I used the 3m glue and it worked well. I have yet to replace the hinges.
i kinda cheat with the door hinges, ive replaced em before, and it works just as well to adjust the door a little higher to compensate for the worn hinges.

plan B would be to replace the hinge bushings, but they are a "weird" size
Old 05-30-07 | 01:00 PM
  #29  
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From: Georgia
Real time video with instructions on moving the door latch:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=GAqxCbNQdrY
Old 05-30-07 | 01:18 PM
  #30  
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From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Having the same issues with my new seals (from rockauto). Working on bending the window frame, have seen some improvement but need to make more adjustment. I like the paper idea, that should help.

My door already lines up perfectly with the body, so moving the striker is not the option for me...
Old 05-30-07 | 01:46 PM
  #31  
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From: Georgia
Ken, move it IN, not up or down. If it doesn't work, what have you lost, 5 minutes? But if you damage that window frame you might be looking for a new door. Ask me how I know, I used to use the window frame bending method myself until one day, when I couldn't get it quite right, I pushed it a little to far and weakend the frame. After that I figured there must be a better way.
Old 05-30-07 | 06:12 PM
  #32  
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Wink Door Weatherstripping

I have replaced the weatherstripping for both my doors on my 85 GSL-SE twice in the 13 years I have been driving it. . Both times I used the OEM seals and I will tell you why. It just fits better. I tried the A1 Auto/Rock Auto/ebay route once (to save a few bucks) and I wound up throwing it away and getting two more OEM seals. Don't get me wrong, they will work but you spend "way to much time trying to get the adjustment just right. The aftermarket seals are thicker than OEM which leads to "slamming the door" to get it to close and the top part of the seal that fits in the channel has a tendancy to "roll over itself" when you close the door which causes it to "pop back out" of the channel that it fits in causing leaks, noise and just a overall poor fit. Just my 2 cent's.
Old 05-31-07 | 07:11 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
i kinda cheat with the door hinges, ive replaced em before, and it works just as well to adjust the door a little higher to compensate for the worn hinges.

plan B would be to replace the hinge bushings, but they are a "weird" size
Good idea. Do you adjust the hinges by their bolting points?
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