Disk to Drum
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Disk to Drum
Okay this is an incredibally stupid question, but i need to know. I have an 85 GS with a rearend conversion, but I damaged the right rear brake, and do not exactly have the money to fix it. But I do have a parts car, an 85 GS with drums on the back. I wanted to know if I could swap the disks for drums, I would still have the LSD, the most important part, but with drums?
Thanks
J
Thanks
J
#7
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You can swap the centersections ASSUMING that you have a large-axle rearend. But since the rearend was swapped you really don't know if you have a small axle '81-83 rear or a large axle '84-85 rear.
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Originally posted by Hades12
What did you do to the brake? I left two sets at the junk yard on monday.
What did you do to the brake? I left two sets at the junk yard on monday.
It is not that the parts are hard to come by, it is a matter of having the money to do it.
#9
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Originally posted by 198512A
It is not that the parts are hard to come by, it is a matter of having the money to do it.
It is not that the parts are hard to come by, it is a matter of having the money to do it.
Pullapart price is $11, Money must be very tight.
A rebuild kit is like $8
in what way did you hurt it?
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Originally posted by peejay
Used rear calipers is a waste of money, since they're probably shot too.
Used rear calipers is a waste of money, since they're probably shot too.
Exactly, I really do not want to waste money on used parts, when I have a spare car.
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The brake lines will work but you have to take them off the cars at a point in which the rubber brake hose remains with the rearend inwhich it is currently attached to. As for the emergency brake cables....do not remove them from the rearends, Instead this is what you do...disconnect them at the point where the cables (left-right side) pass thru the "frame" of the car. The horse shoe&pin type thing is where you'll disconnect each side of the brake cable. To know if your rearend has the old or new size lug nut pattern....just put one of the front wheels onto the rear of the car, if it goes on, it's new, if it doesn't bolt on, it's old.
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Originally posted by Tony Silva
The brake lines will work but you have to take them off the cars at a point in which the rubber brake hose remains with the rearend inwhich it is currently attached to. As for the emergency brake cables....do not remove them from the rearends, Instead this is what you do...disconnect them at the point where the cables (left-right side) pass thru the "frame" of the car. The horse shoe&pin type thing is where you'll disconnect each side of the brake cable. To know if your rearend has the old or new size lug nut pattern....just put one of the front wheels onto the rear of the car, if it goes on, it's new, if it doesn't bolt on, it's old.
The brake lines will work but you have to take them off the cars at a point in which the rubber brake hose remains with the rearend inwhich it is currently attached to. As for the emergency brake cables....do not remove them from the rearends, Instead this is what you do...disconnect them at the point where the cables (left-right side) pass thru the "frame" of the car. The horse shoe&pin type thing is where you'll disconnect each side of the brake cable. To know if your rearend has the old or new size lug nut pattern....just put one of the front wheels onto the rear of the car, if it goes on, it's new, if it doesn't bolt on, it's old.
Hey, thanks for the info, when I took the rearend off the donor I took the brake line of at the point on top of the pumpkin. I will ge the rubber hose. Am I going to have any biasing problems, my car was orgianlly a drum brake car?
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Originally posted by Hades12
Pullapart price is $11, Money must be very tight.
A rebuild kit is like $8
in what way did you hurt it?
Pullapart price is $11, Money must be very tight.
A rebuild kit is like $8
in what way did you hurt it?
I need a caliper, rotor, pads and axle. I had a nasty run in with a curb...
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Yeah, you'll have bias problems with the front to rear braking pressure. To fix this problem you'll need to take the brake proportioning valve off the drum brake car and use it. It all bolts up. When I did my drum to disc swap, I cut the steel brake lines to free up the proportioning valve, then once I got it home, I unbolted the pieces of the steel lines which were still bolted into the valve housing (Just cuz it was so hot at the junk yard and I didn't want to mess with it in the heat). The proportioning valve is located right by the brake master cylinder. It is bolted to the firewall (If I remember correctly). It has been a while since I did the swap, and I sold the car, to buy an 87 GTU.
BTW: Wish I never sold my first gen.!!!!!!!!
BTW: Wish I never sold my first gen.!!!!!!!!
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