Spyride

I just got my emissions checked and I and way over on every thing. I mean like bad. 200 something is acceptable here and I was running like 400 ppm HC's.
So I was doing some digging around (had my nice wife print me off the entire FSM while she was at work and put in a binder. Very nice) and I started noticing that my air port solenoid, port air switch valve, switching solenoid and main air bleed solenoid valve's where not acting right. All of them stayed at above 10v no matter the conditions when there all where supposed to either drop to below 2v at 3000 + rpm or come up from below 2v at 3000+ rpm. Needless to say this is getting very annoying. And I have like 13 days to pass emissions. Is there a way to just rig it to get it to pass? If I remove the emissions will that help lower them? I really dont wanna put any money into this carb as its getting removed as soon asI get my weber DCOE rebuilt (waiting on parts) should I just get all my weber stuff next dayed to me and slap that on instead? Just a little help please guys.
Thanks.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Forgot all the mumbo jumbo about the solenoids.

Emission check list per Doc.
The following things have to be in good working order before anything else.
Plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Air filter clean and fuel filter clean as not to create a lean condition by starvation.
Oil clean, if close to change time, change it.
Engine must be running at operating temp, too cold will cause it to run overly rich.
Meaning that it should be around the 3/8 to 1/2 mark on the water temp mark.
Air pump must be on the engine.
Big part. Catalytic converter must be operating. Have an exhaust shop scan the temp before and after the cat to make sure that it is lighting off and doing it's job.
That's why the air pump has to be operational, to feed air into the cat to heat it up.

Lets say that all of the above is in operating order and doing it's job.
Check list before going in.
Drive the car about 20-30 minutes at freeway speeds before you go to your appointment. Do not shut the engine off when you get there, let it heat soak.
You want the cat as hot as possible to light off the unburned(HC's).

If you have not run any carb cleaner thru the tank in a long time. It might benefit you to get a can of seafoam and run it thru. I usually put in a bottle with about a 1/4 tank of fuel to clean everything out.

There is always the Acetone trick. It has been said the Acetone greatly reduces the amount of HC's that the engine puts out. I use it for fuel economy.

Spyride

gottcha. How much acetone should I add to half a tank of gas? Also what about the rats nest? Thats obviously doing nothing but leaking. can I ditch all that crap but still have the ACV connected and it still be affective? Im guessing so. I dont see anything other then the ECU that connects it to anything else.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Pull the ACV and make sure none of the valve vents are blown...it is amazing how critical the ACV is if you're trying to keep your HC's down...that poor piece sits right above the exhaust manifold and the gaskets and thin metal pieces around the various switching ports simply disintegrate.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

The rats nest needs to be in place with all solenoids and vacuum hoses in working order to ensure that the emission equipment operates properly.

I'll see if I can find the link for you that addresses the acetone question.

Spyride

well I went through and tighted up and zip tied all my hoses. Runs better, Idles nicer. I got my extra ignitors in so Ill be picking up a coil and running direct fire before the end of the week. Hopefully with those two things and the acetone Ill be good to go. Otherwise its going to be an expensive trip to pass inspection.