Project84

This really isn't a question, its just me telling the world how I finally kicked this bolts ***! I been trying to get this bolt off for like a week. I first put vicegrips on the pulley, but they wouldn't hold it still when I was cranking on the bolt. I bought the Mazdatrix flywheel brake and put it on the flywheel. I would crank on the pulley bolt and the whole engine would try to flip over. So I would sit on the motor and crank on it, but I couldn't put enough leverage into it from that position. Then, I got on all fours over the motor, help it with my hands and tried to stomp the breaker-bar to break the bolt free. I bruised my left knee but the bolt didn't come loose. After doing a search, I followed the advice most given and went with a impact gun. I don't have one, and damn if I will rent one when we have them at work, (USAF aircraft heavy maintenance facility) and since I am the shift supervisor and we haven't had hardly any work in the past 2 weeks, I took the motor to work. We used a 150psi air pressure line. Brrraaattttt!!!! Didn't move. WTF? Then we tried a 400psi line. BBBBRRRRAAAATTT!!!!!!!!! Nothing! Then, we sat the entire block in a hydraulic vice, gently clamped it in enough so it would turn, and I got a 4ft breaker and it came right off! Muhahahahaha! Now I'm going to sandblast the outside of all the housing, and run them through a steam cleaner. The sandblaster actually uses granulated plastic chips that won't knick the machined surface. If it comes out looking sweet, I'll post pics.

Manntis

Just remember parts left in a steamcleaner, and not removed immediately after the cleaner is done, develop a film of oxidation (rust)

The bead-blasters are sweet. Makes metal gleam like new again.

During the El Nino a few years back I was still in uniform and posted to CFB Moose Jaw (where they train Canada's elite demonstration squadron, the Snowbirds). Unfortunately there was little to do as I was there to devise a new nozzle to dispurse urea onto the runways for de-icing, and we couldn't test it due to lack of ice (did I mention El Nino?). So the GSE Line Officer sent me on a civilian-qualification airbrakes course (got a 1A on my license now, thanks Taxpayer ) - still nothing to do. They sent me on High Altitude Indoctrination (I was Army, yet learning how to withstand G-Forces, ejection procedures, etc.)

Of course the warm winter dragged on (El Nino, dontcha know) so FINALLY we were authorized to bring work in - almost immediately the engine stands in the shop were filled with our cars' power packs, and rebuilds galore ensued.

Your current situation makes me miss those days...

Project84

Yeah, can't let all that equipment sit and rust away, especially since the taxpayers pay much for them

BadAssRX-7

ill tell EVERYBODY the trick... we do this all the time. but you need a motor in a car and a good starter. pul a big *** breaker bar on the drivers inner fender and hit the starter. pop its loose. or if that dont work get a 500ft lbs impact or a tq multiplyer...that kicks ***

Project84

I've heard of that but and would have tried it but don't have a car to put the motor in.

I took this motor apart cause it had a broken water seal. Well, I was the front end plate at the 6 o'clock position, but the wierd thing was, the metal below the water seal was gone. Its like the water seal was bridging the gap across the water passage and the water just broke through. Usually there is metal on both sides of the little channel that the water seal sits in, but this only had metal on one side. Needless to say the end plate is junk. I do have an extra one, so the show will go on, at least until my rotary engines ach nemesis (my wife) start complaining about me spending money on an engine that doesn't have a car to go with it. I tell her that when the engine is done, I will sell my truck and buy a car.