A couple rat's nest problems...
10-26-05, 12:01 PM
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A couple rat's nest problems...
First, I broke the purge valve. How badly do I need it?
Next, the shutter valve on my carb is disconnected... Since I'm blocking it off anyway, do I need to reconnect it?
Next, the shutter valve on my carb is disconnected... Since I'm blocking it off anyway, do I need to reconnect it?
10-26-05, 12:42 PM
#3
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Shutter valve? What shutter valve? lol. I just pulled the carb and removed the flapper from the shaft. I'm not sure what purge valve you're talking about though.
10-26-05, 02:20 PM
#5
Yeah that purge valve is important. I think if you dont have you could build up the dreaded lung mustard! 
But not to fear as you have helped us out with your how to's we shall help you out. I broke that stupid plastic thing too.
Here is what you need to do:
For the PCV just get one that fits in the to hose at both ends. Thats what I did and it works great!!!
OR
Hope this helps. I guess I could have just posted the link but oh well!
But not to fear as you have helped us out with your how to's we shall help you out. I broke that stupid plastic thing too.Here is what you need to do:
Originally Posted by vipernicus42
Lucky for you guys, I got my PCV system hooked up and running perfectly, so I'm more than willing to share. Hell, if I had the afternoon off work, I'd even throw in pics!
Okay, follow carefully, this is a three-line procedure, and you need about 3ft of 5/16" fuel/emissions/vacuum hose to do it:
Line #1
- Oil Filler Neck goes to non-threaded side of PCV Valve
- Threaded Side of PCV Valve goes to the vacuum source on the intake manifold under where the shutter valve used to be.
I didn't even realize this vacuum source was there until I read some posts on how to do this. It's on the manifold just above the #2 rotor housing
Line #2
There's a connection on the intermediate housing I believe, which juts out towards rotor housing 2. This is just above/ahead of the one on the oil filler neck and would normally have your charcoal canister plugged into it (via a metal tube that follows along the firewall).
- That connection needs a line going to a fresh air source. With the rat's nest removed, that's really easy. There's one on the stock airbox, just above and to the left of the carb vent.
Line #3
Now your charcoal canister isn't hooked to anything.
- Remove the old line that went from the metal tube on the firewall to the intermediate housing. Replace this line with a new one that goes to the carb vent.
And you're done! easy as 1, 2, 3.
Jon
Okay, follow carefully, this is a three-line procedure, and you need about 3ft of 5/16" fuel/emissions/vacuum hose to do it:
Line #1
- Oil Filler Neck goes to non-threaded side of PCV Valve
- Threaded Side of PCV Valve goes to the vacuum source on the intake manifold under where the shutter valve used to be.
I didn't even realize this vacuum source was there until I read some posts on how to do this. It's on the manifold just above the #2 rotor housing
Line #2
There's a connection on the intermediate housing I believe, which juts out towards rotor housing 2. This is just above/ahead of the one on the oil filler neck and would normally have your charcoal canister plugged into it (via a metal tube that follows along the firewall).
- That connection needs a line going to a fresh air source. With the rat's nest removed, that's really easy. There's one on the stock airbox, just above and to the left of the carb vent.
Line #3
Now your charcoal canister isn't hooked to anything.
- Remove the old line that went from the metal tube on the firewall to the intermediate housing. Replace this line with a new one that goes to the carb vent.
And you're done! easy as 1, 2, 3.
Jon
For the PCV just get one that fits in the to hose at both ends. Thats what I did and it works great!!!
OR
Originally Posted by vipernicus42
There should be a section with PCV valves at your local part store. I know here in Canada, you can go to Canadian Tire and they have a section devoted to it.
If you need to give them a vehicle make/model so that they can look it up in the computer tell them you have a '90 Dodge Caravan with the 3L V6. This is the purge valve you're looking for (or anything similar).
Basically you need one that sits in-line, with the vacuum source on one side and the "crankcase" on the other. The threaded end will go towards the manifold vacuum source, the other end will connect to the oil filler neck.
It should be a metal hexagonal-cylinder about three inches long. ANY part store should be able to hook you up for five bucks or less.
Jon
If you need to give them a vehicle make/model so that they can look it up in the computer tell them you have a '90 Dodge Caravan with the 3L V6. This is the purge valve you're looking for (or anything similar).
Basically you need one that sits in-line, with the vacuum source on one side and the "crankcase" on the other. The threaded end will go towards the manifold vacuum source, the other end will connect to the oil filler neck.
It should be a metal hexagonal-cylinder about three inches long. ANY part store should be able to hook you up for five bucks or less.
Jon
Hope this helps. I guess I could have just posted the link but oh well!
10-26-05, 09:39 PM
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im in the process of removing my old motor and getting a new (used) one...and wanted to loose all the emissions including the rat's nest, and just about everything under the hood that isn't absolutely essential.....
i couldn't believe how much crap i pulled out of there that i won't be needing!!! in the process i removed the entire wiring harness ....(the passenger half)...the only parts i will rewire from this are the oil temp. and pressure sensors, and the few that go to the distributor....i have one question though...is the front right headlight assembly also controlled by the pass. side wiring harness.....(1985 GSL)???
here in ontario our cars that are 20 yrs old or older are excemp from emissions....haha perfect timing for me i gotta say
i couldn't believe how much crap i pulled out of there that i won't be needing!!! in the process i removed the entire wiring harness ....(the passenger half)...the only parts i will rewire from this are the oil temp. and pressure sensors, and the few that go to the distributor....i have one question though...is the front right headlight assembly also controlled by the pass. side wiring harness.....(1985 GSL)???
here in ontario our cars that are 20 yrs old or older are excemp from emissions....haha perfect timing for me i gotta say
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10-28-05, 08:36 AM
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Now, what do you do with all the little electical connectors that attach to the rats nest? Cut 'em off, leave 'em hanging, what? I am keeping the A/C solenoid, but what about the other four or five?
And, what about the ECU thing in the passenger footwell? Now that I have no smog pump and no rats nest, do I need it?
And, what about the ECU thing in the passenger footwell? Now that I have no smog pump and no rats nest, do I need it?
10-28-05, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by $100T2
Now, what do you do with all the little electical connectors that attach to the rats nest? Cut 'em off, leave 'em hanging, what? I am keeping the A/C solenoid, but what about the other four or five?
And, what about the ECU thing in the passenger footwell? Now that I have no smog pump and no rats nest, do I need it?
And, what about the ECU thing in the passenger footwell? Now that I have no smog pump and no rats nest, do I need it?
It's located on the bolt that is just underneath the PCV Valve label.
It's a ground, though for what I'm not sure. Maybe if you remove the emissions unit in the passenger footwell, you won't need it, but even on my '83 engine with no emissions connected to the engine whatever, without that ground attached, the car runs poorly.
10-28-05, 09:49 AM
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10-28-05, 10:11 AM
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Here's where I am right now. I've got the distributor reconnected, the shutter valve blocked off, but I'm not sure how to run the purge valve. I broke my old one, so I bought the valve that moses is using.
Now what do I do?
Now what do I do?
10-28-05, 01:21 PM
#14
Thats your AC idle adjuster. It doesnt look to me like you still have AC, so its not important you can take it off, or plug it up. But if you did have AC when you turn it on that white plug you have kicks up the idle to compensate for the draw of the AC.
Matt
Matt
10-28-05, 04:56 PM
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OK, here's the pic from Carl's tutorial... They are using the old valve that I broke.
So, how do I use this little metal thing I bought today???
So, how do I use this little metal thing I bought today???
10-28-05, 04:58 PM
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It looks to me like Moses isn't using as many vacuum sources on the carb, but since I don't know what the hell I'm doing/talking about (and I proudly admit it!!) I need some help.
10-29-05, 06:55 AM
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Sorry man, can't view your pics from work. However, if you're still in a bind when I get home (about 15 hours from now) I'll shoot a few pics of mine for you. Two years without rats and no issues, so it must be right, right?
10-29-05, 06:58 PM
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10-29-05, 11:27 PM
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um, yeah i broke the purge valve when i did mine, all i did was plug all the holes at the base of carb, cept the one you need for the vacumm advance, then i left the stem at the base of the oilfiller neck open, and replaced the orginal screw down oil cap, with a push in breather type for crappy tire. that was last year, and i haven't had anyproblems with "lung mustard"
10-29-05, 11:52 PM
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Ok i just took a look at the car and for what i did it goes as follows
1. thick steel line from charcoal canister left open at firewall(noprobs withfumes oversummer)
2.bothe stems at base ofoil filler neck left open
3.breather cap replaces stock screw on oil cap(or drill stockcap place a T fitting on the top
4.vac lines at base of carb plugged (except far left for vacuum advance), (also my carb is missing most emissions stuff and the auto release choke so you may still have lines running there)
5. shutter valve completley removed and capped( in retrospect i would leave it on and glue so it's always open)
6. stem opening at top left of carb left open
like i said, i did this last winter and i drove it all summer without problems. i haven't had any fume issues,and i've never seen the lung mustard. i did try to use a pcv valve intially, but didn't like the idea of attaching a vacuum source to the oil filler neck, and the car wouldn't run with the oil cap off.
1. thick steel line from charcoal canister left open at firewall(noprobs withfumes oversummer)
2.bothe stems at base ofoil filler neck left open
3.breather cap replaces stock screw on oil cap(or drill stockcap place a T fitting on the top
4.vac lines at base of carb plugged (except far left for vacuum advance), (also my carb is missing most emissions stuff and the auto release choke so you may still have lines running there)
5. shutter valve completley removed and capped( in retrospect i would leave it on and glue so it's always open)
6. stem opening at top left of carb left open
like i said, i did this last winter and i drove it all summer without problems. i haven't had any fume issues,and i've never seen the lung mustard. i did try to use a pcv valve intially, but didn't like the idea of attaching a vacuum source to the oil filler neck, and the car wouldn't run with the oil cap off.
10-30-05, 10:37 AM
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Ok, I have the far left running to the vacuum on the distributor. I think I am going to run a hose from the top of the carb to the oil filler neck. I am running the hoses for the A/C because another forum member is hooking me up with an A/C system. Then I guess I cap everything else?