the wire and toggle switch that goes the blower is always hot (as in warm) when I run the blower.

While replacing the toggle switch, putting on a electrical connecter, stripping insulation off, I saw green oxidized copper.

The two inches of the wire were stiff, and the insulation was discolored evidence of over heating.

what is the fix? I want to keep the OEM 4 plug plastic connector that attaches to the rest of the electrical system.

in what other wires does the green oxidized over heating copper lurk......possibly causing a fire??

 

There must be moisture or poor connections , heat usually causes the wiring to turn black and be burnt looking . I am guessing you refer to the heater motor fan . Is this system stock or has it been added . there should be a relay and resistor that the switch controls before it gets to the fan . there fore there should be no extra draw on the switch wires if anything the relay wires may corrode or burn from a overdraw . has there been a solder job on wires where they are green ? Gerald m.

 

ya heater motor fan / blower. I replaced the OEM switches with toggle switches in 2000.

The blackened wire in question was attached to the side of loose toggle connector. Maybe it heated up, and the wire gradually corroded?

toggle switch should be way over spec'd at 120 V 20 amps? but that is for AC

 

Well if things are loose they will heat up . If the toggle is loose inside it should be replaced as well as any poor wiring , maybe put a meter on the wires in question and see what the amperage draw is on high speed , i still think there should be a relay in the system to take the power draw away from the switch . Gerald m.

 

Also possible that whoever selected the toggle bought one that is underspec; switches are rated for the current they must carry, and trying to pull too much through one damages the contacts, which raises resistance and so makes them get hot.

Blower motor can draw heavy current - - especially if the blower housing gets full of debris or if the fan isrubbing. Takes a meaty switch to properly control that kind of current.

 

Also just because the switch is rated for 120 volt does not mean that it can handle heavy draw on 12 volt with high amperage . the contacts are barely the size of an ants head on most toggles . A half wore out fan motor with poor dry bushings can actually draw twice as much as rated for . It also wouldn't surprise me to find that the heater doors don't work proper making the blower work even harder yet Let us know how things work out for you .. Gerald m.

 

that's not it, when I was looking at the front speakers, I had to remove the blower. Last year it got new brushes, been cleaned, and the metal prime painted.....the whole nine yards.

wow, the blower was filthy, like a home HVAC insides

AC vs. DC, one requires thicker wire for the same power , amperage or something.....from an EE course 35 years ago.

 

green covering is simply corrosion from elements not from the switch.

sounds like you had some water sitting in your car at one point in time.

just clean the wiring with a wire brush and put on a new connector unless you feel like rebuilding your interior wiring harnesses which will turn into a neverending nightmare. solve your issues one by one as they pop up. a little corrosion will certainly hurt the ability of the wire to carry current but it should still do the job, the corrosion usually ends a few inches beyond the wire end so if possible you can also try to find where the wiring becomes good again and maybe solder an extension wire to it(this may be a better option).

 

thank you for the well thought out response. the car wasn't sitting in water it has been my DD since 1990. also only that one wire shows the discoloration.

tomorrow, i will check the wire /toggle switch for over heating when i use the heater blower

Las Vegas huh? this car was owned by a nurse in LV, maybe you remember it from 22 years ago?

 

maybe, if i hadn't only moved here 3 years ago.