coolant drip on exhaust manifold
02-12-08, 01:46 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
coolant drip on exhaust manifold
should I just keep topping the radiator off with antifreeze, or try some sealer.
once I had a radiator leak, and used a sealer, then I had a blocked radiator and over heating engine. That was 1 rebuild and 2 radiators ago.
once I had a radiator leak, and used a sealer, then I had a blocked radiator and over heating engine. That was 1 rebuild and 2 radiators ago.
02-12-08, 06:57 AM
#5
82, 83, 88, 82 RX-7again!
You have heard the answer, it is not that bad a job even though it may be intimidating with all the hoses and hard to reach nuts holding the carb. Take lots of pictures and you can clean your engine while you are there, it will say thank you!
If I had it to do again, I would plug the suckers instead of the o-ring replacement, do a search, you will see why.
Scott
If I had it to do again, I would plug the suckers instead of the o-ring replacement, do a search, you will see why.
Scott
02-13-08, 01:22 AM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
thank you everyone,
it is cold outside, I don't want spend a lot of time tinkering with this, so how do I get to these o-rings?
1>remove the carburator and so on (big head ache)
or
2>something with working on the right side of the motor?
in 30 words or less
it is cold outside, I don't want spend a lot of time tinkering with this, so how do I get to these o-rings?
1>remove the carburator and so on (big head ache)
or
2>something with working on the right side of the motor?
in 30 words or less
02-13-08, 08:58 AM
#7
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remove carb remove intake. There are two coolant passages on the intake. Both have orings. yours have cracked ripped or whatever. remove o ring go to store try to match up. Or get 2 20mm frost plugs/expansion plugs, cup style. Pound in. reinstall ****. Enjoy driving!
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02-13-08, 10:14 AM
#8
Given it is cold out (were you are) and the job takes some time, I recommend you just top off the coolant until it warms up. I topped off my coolant for months. When it is warmer do the job right and replace the o-rings. It is not that bad, just takes some time.
I would not recomend blocking the coolant passages. It would have been easier for Mazda to not put the coolant passages in if they were not needed to keep the intake charge as cool as possible. I don't have any measurements to prove this and I know the collant gets warm (~200 F), but I have to believe the Mazda engineers did the math on this and know that the intake charge is cooler with coolant passages working.
I would not recomend blocking the coolant passages. It would have been easier for Mazda to not put the coolant passages in if they were not needed to keep the intake charge as cool as possible. I don't have any measurements to prove this and I know the collant gets warm (~200 F), but I have to believe the Mazda engineers did the math on this and know that the intake charge is cooler with coolant passages working.
02-14-08, 01:31 AM
#11
Given it is cold out (were you are) and the job takes some time, I recommend you just top off the coolant until it warms up. I topped off my coolant for months. When it is warmer do the job right and replace the o-rings. It is not that bad, just takes some time.
The sooner he gets on the drip the sooner he gets the headache out of the way...but to each there own
I would not recomend blocking the coolant passages. It would have been easier for Mazda to not put the coolant passages in if they were not needed to keep the intake charge as cool as possible. I don't have any measurements to prove this and I know the collant gets warm (~200 F), but I have to believe the Mazda engineers did the math on this and know that the intake charge is cooler with coolant passages working.
The sooner he gets on the drip the sooner he gets the headache out of the way...but to each there own
I would not recomend blocking the coolant passages. It would have been easier for Mazda to not put the coolant passages in if they were not needed to keep the intake charge as cool as possible. I don't have any measurements to prove this and I know the collant gets warm (~200 F), but I have to believe the Mazda engineers did the math on this and know that the intake charge is cooler with coolant passages working.
Freeze plugs are cool...but so are the quarters and silicone
03-23-08, 04:27 PM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
where can I buy the manifold o-rings?......if the silicon doesn't hold???
took off the manifold and used rtc162 white silicon rubber sealant, it is supposed to be good up to 400 F. I'm letting it set for 48 hours, then I will tighten everything down.
maybe I will paint the rat's next hot rod yellow while I have it out !!
took off the manifold and used rtc162 white silicon rubber sealant, it is supposed to be good up to 400 F. I'm letting it set for 48 hours, then I will tighten everything down.
maybe I will paint the rat's next hot rod yellow while I have it out !!
03-23-08, 05:31 PM
#13
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heck you don't even have to take the carb off the manifold. just disconnect the oil linkage, unbolt the manifold and set it all on the waterpump. replace o-rings. and reinstall. just did it yesterday.
03-24-08, 01:27 PM
#15
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can someone tell me what size these freeze plugs you speak of are? i also need to do the same. getting ready to swap to a good nikki carb with no leaks in the next couple weeks.
03-24-08, 02:29 PM
#16
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20MM freeze plugs. Use a little JB Weld on the outside lip for a bit of insurance. I just did it in Decmeber, took me 20 minutes, including the time it took to mix the JB.
03-27-08, 06:04 AM
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thank you, im actually doing this today, having problems with my honda, so im gonna start driving the rx7 today. yippy!!!
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