ok, I'm not a machinist, not a mechanic. I'm a tile guy. While I really enjoy doing what I can to my 7, and learning what I can from who I can so I can do more, I'm not nearly as mechanically minded as MANY members here. I can build a steam shower that would last 50+ years of hard use, and level and set a floor so flat you can slide a dime across it. So don't blast me if this is a stupid idea. I'm just wondering.

Seems stupid to me to have control arms with non-replaceable ball joints. Yes I know they can be replaced and welded in, I just don't like that option. I also don't much like the expensive/adjustable ones that are available (and not sure if the ball joints on those are replaceable either to be honest)

I've got a connection now (customer of mine) who owns a machine shop. Why aren't there better control arms available with easily replaceable ball joints. I've rounded up new springs, all bushings, going to get new illuminas and new front and rear sway bars. I'd like to get the ball joints/arms done while I'm at it. Anyone experimented with anything non-stock or found something better than welding in new ball joints?

 

The stock ones are replaceable. The confusion comes from the fact that Mazda doesnt sell just the ball joints. Any major parts store will be able to bring them in though, and there is nothing sketchy about replacing the stock ball joints at all.

I have done it many times, never needed to weld them in, and never had one so much as move on me (even with very hard driving, auto-x, offroad jumps, etc. etc.). Its as simple as cleaning the originals off before pressing them out, and pressing the new ones in properly so the control arm "crimps" them, locking them into place.


Unless there is more to this idea than an alternate ball joint or lower cost than the racingbeat adjustable control arms, I would say its not worth pursuing...

 

I always welded them in just because they are Japanese control arms and they're made out of really thin steel and I have had issues with ball joints wobbling in other such vehicles. Mainly late 80's 626/MX-6/Probe.

You may find that you don't need it. I just don't trust it very far, because I'm paranoid. Two or three little tacks to make sure they never start moving, and I'm done.

(You will, however, never find me welding the lock collar to an axle, because OMG STRESS RISER)

The main issue I have with aftermarket ball joints is the fact that every one I've seen is a greasable unit and not a low-friction unit like factory. Greasable joints suck, they tend to be high-friction and wear out quickly while giving you crappy steering feel while they do it.

 

I replaced mine many moons ago and the ones I bought had a snap ring to retain them. It seemed like a nice setup.

 

^Do you remember what brand had a snap ring? I always wondered why the ones I've bought for the FB never had that, seems like cheap insurance. As others have said, you don't have to weld the ball joints in, but it too is cheap insurance.
I've had some that weren't welded that lasted years with no issues, while other ones loosened up almost immediately....

 

I've been bugging Sam at RE-Speed to get some made up. He's busy so it's not his first priority but he's getting closer. Maybe if everyone else starts pushing for them he'll see the interest and bump up R&D on them.

 

Unfortunately I don't remember. I didn't know how rare they were at the time.

 

I've replaced mine a few times. What you need to be careful about is the fact that there are two different sizes that you could end up with. One will press in VERY firmly, while the other will just fall right out again.

The first couple of times I ended up with the type that could be pressed in, and never had an issue with them. However, a few years later while replacing those, I ended up with the other type (from Japan, but don't recall the mfg name). So I just had a buddy add a couple of tach welds to keep them in place. That was a couple of years ago, still no issues.

I really wish that I had kept track of which manufacturer was producing which part, but I was scrambling to make DGRR and there was just too much going on at the time.




.

 

just curious, does anybody have the adjustable lower control arms on a daily driver? or is it overkill?

I just bought some Beck/Arnley ball joints myself.

 

If/when you go to replace, please post how they fit.

Anyone figuring out snap-ring brand also please post, thank you very much.

 

IIRC, the snap ring style were Moog and NLA.

 

I'm thinking at some point in the future I want to mod a set of control arms to use one of those screw in type ball joints and sleeves like the custom car and circle track guys use.

You can see what I'm talking about here: Chrysler-Type Screw-In Ball Joint w/ Sleeve - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to mod the end of a FB control arm and weld that threaded sleeve in there, then you could change ball joints easily. The biggest expense would be having to buy (or find someone who has) the needed taper ream to make the knuckle arm fit properly... Then again, does anyone know what the specs are of the FB ball joint? I'm wondering if it's already a 7* taper....

 

I haven't heard anything good about them. Hard to adjust, hard to adjust evenly so both sides match, have to get under the car, etc.

Camber plates are just so much easier to deal with (if you are looking for camber adjustment, which is the primary purpose of the adjustable control arms).

 

Porsche arms look pretty sweet....

 

You, sir, are correct . . . on both counts.

 

hmm, interesting... i wonder if the P car ball joint, is the same taper as the SA/FB?

 

Those look cool. Wonder if they would work.