Hey i was just wondering...

Are you supposed to 'feel' the compression on a 12a when turning the flywheel? Like say for instance on an inline 4 1600 orso?

I'm only asking because when i turn my flywheel i dont feel anything....well i feel a resistance but no real 'compression'.....i can hear it making compression but i cant feel it...

note: its been sitting for a while and prolly never ever had atf before.

 

A 1.6L piston engine will be much harder to turn over than a rotary engine, that's pretty much normal for rotaries. As long as you hear the proper slurping sound from all the apex seals, you've got at least SOME compression. If you park a rotary powered car on a hill and put it in gear, it will chuff right down the hill, unlike a piston engine.

 

I hear plopping sounds from the exhaustport and sucktionsound from the intake so i guess thats a good sign....i would get a psigauge to do a decent measurment but they are expensive ....

Im giving it an atf really soon and il see how she runs...

Btw: thx for the tip on the putting into gear on a hill....i had no idea and i would hate to find out the hard way

Btw, does anyone know of a good replacement oilfilter...i read that the stock oilfilter unit is way to puny...

Anyone know of a good replacement from another car that might fit?

 

Where did you hear that the stock oil filter is too puny?
I've never heard that, is why I ask.

Also, this forum seems to be rather hung-up on using ATF as the engine cleaner of the Gods, whereas Techron or Amsoil "power foam" works great and is safer for the exhaust system and cats. Someday, maybe someone other than myself will try it and be converted.

You can check out the apex seals by taking off the exhaust manifold or header and viewing them through the exhaust port with a light. You can even push on the seals with a little nylon rod to insure that they are free in their slots and have good spring tension. Bear in mind that they are at a bit of an angle when they go by the exhaust port. -WG

 

Well i read about it on this page http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm

About that ATF, well id be more than happy to be convinced about a better way...i never tryed either so wichever works the better is what il use....im not the type to get hung up on something.

The problem is though...tranny oil i can get everywhere...power foam might be a little harder to get and a little more expensive two....and my engine doesnt have a cat so...

 

Yea ATF is dirt cheap. I'm sure what you use WG is good, but were a bunch of cheap bastards!!!!

Use an RX-4 filter. They're taller so they have more filter area, which means less pressure drop, more flow, and less chance of the bypass opening.

 

Well, I'm a cheap bastard, too. But sometimes spending a couple of extra dollars ends up being cheaper in the long run. I've been buying power foam at the gunshop (works great on shotgun barrels, I'm told) for about $8 a can, which is a little high. Most Amsoil dealers sell it a bit cheaper. I also use the power foam for cleaning all kinds of things, including rubber parts.
I've often wondered about using RX4 filters on my 7, the base gasket is a slightly different size, though, and I was worried about it sealing properly. I suppose I should give it a try. I'm already running an RX4 fuel pump on my '80, and it has been working great. I'm also using a windshield washer tank out of an RX4. It's great having an RX4 parts car!

 

Mine have never leaked. But I did notice the slight seal size difference. Try it. I'll try the power foam if I can find it. Are you using it like the ATF? soaking the engine? Or different technique.

 

My "power foaming" regimen is as follows: I start the motor and run it just until it will idle off the choke, then start spraying the power foam in the carb while tugging on the throttle cable with my free hand to keep it running. After I've sprayed about 1/4 of the can in the carb, I shut down the motor and unplug the coil wires so the motor won't start. Then I fill the carb up with foam and turn the motor over on the starter to suck it all in. I usually do this a couple of times to be sure that I'm getting a good quantity in the motor and soaking down the rotors. Then I let it sit for anywhere from 1/2 hour to all day, depending on whether I need the car or not. Longer is obviously better. Then I hook up the coil wires, start it up, and blow it out for a couple minutes before I take it out on the highway and open up the secondaries. I like to take at least a 20-30 minute drive to be sure I get all the carbon out, instead of just moving it around. The end result is that the motor seems to run noticeably smoother, with perhaps a bit more spunk. This method has the added benefit of cleaning the carb and choke. Amsoil has (or had) a deal where one could become a dealer for 6 months for $10, enabling one to buy products at dealer cost. Personally, I think their multi-level marketing scheme sucks, but I paid the $10 a few years ago and bought a case of Power foam as well as a couple of gallons of their EXCELLENT 75-90W synthetic gear oil. Maybe they still offer that $10 for 6 months deal, I don't know. But if you get some friends together and buy a good quantity, it works out well, especially if you can get the guy above you (the "sponsor") to deliver the product, as I was able to. The sponsor gets a kick-down on anything that his "downline" people buy, so they are frequently willing to make a little extra effort. In addition, sometimes you can find it in auto parts stores. Locally, G.I. Joe's carries some of their products, but not the power foam, unfortunately. Try it, you'll like it! -WG

 

Always open to new ideas! thanks WG, Ill try it if/when I find some. <note, make trip to gun store>.......