Cold start up problem
#1
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Cold start up problem
When I start my car in the morning I need to step on the gas and rev up to 5k in order for the car to start... if i just turn the key and pull the choke the car dies, but if I keep it at a constant 5k then gradually drop to 2k in a time span of 2-3 minutes, I can let go and let the car idle at about 900-1k and it runs fine. When the car is warm up already I can just turn the key once and it starts right away and idles at 900-1k. So is this an idle problem? How should I go about researching this?
#2
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I just got my 83 in November and I was having the same problem. What I did was pump the gas pedal once or twice before trying to start the car and it would usualy take two trys of that.
I never had to jump up to 5k RPM thank god because that would be a gas eater lol. I found my cars has issues idling after I use the gas to get it going and then switch to the choke so I try and just use the choke but I was doing what your doing when It was really cold out.
I did switch my fuel pump not to long ago but I dont think thats what the start up problem was. Good luck man,
I never had to jump up to 5k RPM thank god because that would be a gas eater lol. I found my cars has issues idling after I use the gas to get it going and then switch to the choke so I try and just use the choke but I was doing what your doing when It was really cold out.
I did switch my fuel pump not to long ago but I dont think thats what the start up problem was. Good luck man,
#3
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I got a similar problem but I'm running a 13B with no choke, they tell me that I have a leaking injector but I've not had the time to get in there to pull them out. On initial startup if i do not push the floor to the pedal, the car ends up flooding and it takes for ever to get the car running again.
#4
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Yea when I try to pull the choke it brings it down to 2k and then it dies, I guess it can't start unless it's at 5k for about a minute, then I can let it idle for 1k until it warms up...
#5
revving to 5K on a cold start is not good. a steady 3K would be better. if you are having a hard time starting the engine, have you checked, inspected or replaced the plugs, wires, cap rotor, fuel filter, air filter, carb rebuild, or performed a compression test?
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#8
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Yeap same thing happens to me. i have a 13b and it wont start unless i tap the gas to activate the choke. But that's even in the summer time. My neighbors yell at me from there windows to shut my car off Because its so loud. I don't blame them a rotary doing 4 grand idling at 8 in the morning with a pacesetter exhaust system. I really want to fix that.
#9
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On an SA22 with a manual choke, there's a linkage that connects the choke to the throttle, which sets the proper pre-opening for the throttle when the choke is pulled out. If that's not set up right, choking it cold can make it stall unless you throttle it by foot.
After you check all the stuff Mazdaverx713b listed, you can check that... though to set it up properly you need to pull the carb.
Proper cold-start sequence for a stock SA is:
Key to "on"
Give the fuel pump a few seconds to fill up the bowls, if it's been sitting a while
Pull choke fully, foot OFF gas; let go of choke ****
(If choke won't stay out, either the engine's not cold or there's a fault in the choke magnet circuit)
Key to "start"
Once she lights, the RPMs should be at around 2.5-3k. You can either leave them there until the choke pulls back in on its own, or you can ease them down to about 2k by manually pushing the choke in slowly.
After you check all the stuff Mazdaverx713b listed, you can check that... though to set it up properly you need to pull the carb.
Proper cold-start sequence for a stock SA is:
Key to "on"
Give the fuel pump a few seconds to fill up the bowls, if it's been sitting a while
Pull choke fully, foot OFF gas; let go of choke ****
(If choke won't stay out, either the engine's not cold or there's a fault in the choke magnet circuit)
Key to "start"
Once she lights, the RPMs should be at around 2.5-3k. You can either leave them there until the choke pulls back in on its own, or you can ease them down to about 2k by manually pushing the choke in slowly.
#11
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Cool DivinDriver I'll try that method out tomorrow, and ThatIrishGuy I have also heard it could be a carb problem so I'm looking into rebuilding it as well
#12
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Hey thanks DivinDriver your method works like a charm! It sputtered then it came right on without me having to rev all the way to 5k, and it went on a steady 2k then the choke released itself when it warmed up
#14
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Yeap same thing happens to me. i have a 13b and it wont start unless i tap the gas to activate the choke. But that's even in the summer time. My neighbors yell at me from there windows to shut my car off Because its so loud. I don't blame them a rotary doing 4 grand idling at 8 in the morning with a pacesetter exhaust system. I really want to fix that.
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dude exact same problem here! please explain what the cold start assist nipple is and where? i took off my air pump and blocked it and ever since then starting in below freezing i have to rev it over 5k for a minute or drive it right away to keep it running....not good
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