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since we are talking HEI coils, the plug wires are outties on both ends. I think that they need to be on snuggly, not jiggly. But off the shelf plug wires' connections are always loose.
Ford F150 plug wires which are made to go on the HEI fit loosely on the plugs and HEI.
do Mallory, MSD, and Summit Racing sparkplug wire kit's terminals fit tight?
Are all sparkplugs electrodes the same diameter?
Maybe putting the connection's boots back where they are suppose to be will solve the problem? but I wanna see that the connections are tight.
or...ya think ?
Last edited by midnight mechanic; 08-24-21 at 01:41 AM.
For a high tension lead connecting to a plug or a coil with a post, I get in there with needle nosers and shape the connection smaller to really squeeze the post. For the connectors going into sockets, I spread the connector. I then firmly press them on/in and give them a twist to scrape onto the mating surface.
Sure, air is a dielectric but when thousands of volts are involved, you really want to encourage the electron flow to the right place :P
And arcing will create carbon tracks in otherwise insulating components, like the phenolic plastic neck of a coil or cap. Once those are established, they are a pretty attractive path for the electrons and will continue to cause problems. So if you are still getting arcing, wire brush the hell out of the area to clean up any carbon tracks.
As much as I screwed around with this, and all my creative excursions, it bums me out that all along it was a lousy sparkplug. Anyway, thankyou for your advice everyone. did the DFIS, after I changed the water pump, the car ran like crap. I checked everything, thought it was bad sparkplug wires/connections.
As much as I screwed around with this, and all my creative excursions, it bums me out that all along it was a lousy sparkplug. Anyway, thankyou for your advice everyone. did the DFIS, after I changed the water pump, the car ran like crap. I checked everything, thought it was bad sparkplug wires/connections.
I think I fixed it (again). I got the OEM ignition to work smoothly by 1st making/verifying the connections to the sparkplugs and coils were Monkey Grip Tight. Then sliding the boots back. Next I setup DFIS to leading. Engine was smooth. I'm getting really good at switching from DFIS to OEM to DFIS to OEM....
then there is the screech! Removed the airpump belt, now there is a quieter screech. Do alternators screech before they go bad?
Last edited by midnight mechanic; 08-26-21 at 04:01 AM.
08-23-21, 11:16 PM
