clutch/ transmission (problem?)
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clutch/ transmission (problem?)
Whenever i shift my car, it catches when i try and put it in gear.
when i am in 1st, and want to go to 2nd, i can pull it back to neutral supersuper easy, with no effort, but when i shift up to second, i have to pull my stick down to the slot it is supposed to go to, and apply a small amount of pressure, and then wait untill it allows me to put it into gear. It is hard to explain, its not big enough to be considered wrong or broken, but i just drove another 7, and that car shifted like heaven. there is a second or less delay for my transmission to allow me to shift. doesnt matter how hard i try and crank it over or whatnot. it just will not go into gear untill my rpms drop down a little.
the prev. owner installed a kevlar stage 3 clutch. I am not sure really what this is, how much of it is actually upgraded, etc. im scared to start taking things apart as this is my ONLY car, only transportation, its my life. I will take it apart, if someone can help me. and the project would not be able to be a overnight thing until saturday, cause thats my friday. thanks guys.
when i am in 1st, and want to go to 2nd, i can pull it back to neutral supersuper easy, with no effort, but when i shift up to second, i have to pull my stick down to the slot it is supposed to go to, and apply a small amount of pressure, and then wait untill it allows me to put it into gear. It is hard to explain, its not big enough to be considered wrong or broken, but i just drove another 7, and that car shifted like heaven. there is a second or less delay for my transmission to allow me to shift. doesnt matter how hard i try and crank it over or whatnot. it just will not go into gear untill my rpms drop down a little.
the prev. owner installed a kevlar stage 3 clutch. I am not sure really what this is, how much of it is actually upgraded, etc. im scared to start taking things apart as this is my ONLY car, only transportation, its my life. I will take it apart, if someone can help me. and the project would not be able to be a overnight thing until saturday, cause thats my friday. thanks guys.
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what kind of oil do you have in the transmission? i personally like 50/50 mix of gear oil and ATF, it shifts like the expensive synthetic, without being expensive.
#5
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It could be a number of things causing this to feel this way.
1. Worn synchros can cause this.
2. Old fluid.
3. The stage 3 clutch maybe not completely disengaging or the pilot bearing wasn't changed
and its grabbing.
I would try changing the tranny oil to a nice synthetic. I use Royal Purple in mine and it helps.
Thats the cheapest way to try and fix it. Sometimes it works too!. Some folks swear by using
50/50 mix of tranny oil and auto tranny fluid as well. If changing the fluid makes no difference
you will have to pull the tranny to find the definitive issue.
I'd change the fluid and live with it until it breaks.
1. Worn synchros can cause this.
2. Old fluid.
3. The stage 3 clutch maybe not completely disengaging or the pilot bearing wasn't changed
and its grabbing.
I would try changing the tranny oil to a nice synthetic. I use Royal Purple in mine and it helps.
Thats the cheapest way to try and fix it. Sometimes it works too!. Some folks swear by using
50/50 mix of tranny oil and auto tranny fluid as well. If changing the fluid makes no difference
you will have to pull the tranny to find the definitive issue.
I'd change the fluid and live with it until it breaks.
#7
no its not designed to do that, that pilot bearing is a good thought tho if it seized up but the problem with that statement is that it would be hard to get into ALL gears, especially from a dead stop goin into first. but do change your fluid and try royal purps as i have seen better results with that in my toyota off road truck which was seen that problem after years of unessasary abuse. it does help!
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no its not designed to do that, that pilot bearing is a good thought tho if it seized up but the problem with that statement is that it would be hard to get into ALL gears, especially from a dead stop goin into first. but do change your fluid and try royal purps as i have seen better results with that in my toyota off road truck which was seen that problem after years of unessasary abuse. it does help!
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Took a pic with my iPad, dunno how to upload it. Wanted a confirm deny on the two bolts. I've never drained a tranny. One big bolt on bottom looks like a 21 or something, and a weird nut lookin thing on the side that I could un twist with vicegrips. Sound right?
#12
not really lol. u mean its hard to get into all gears? especially first or reverse from stop??? first gear whining is not good but change the fluid and it can band-aid it for a while but will need a rebuild in the future. check for metal in the fluid. try to warm up the fluid (warm not scoulding hot) when you change it. if i remeber correctly it is the one that looks like a square bit to a ratchet sticking out and the other on the very bottom of the gear box just like a regular drain plug.
#13
if it is hard to get INTO gear from a stop then it could be the clutch not disengaging all the way. make sure there is no air in the lines. check free play n pedal hieght. if you suspect the pilot bearing is bad leave it in a gear while at a dead stop and listen for whining noise. i dont remeber on this certain trans( ive seen too many) but sometimes you can move the slave cylinder about a quater of an inch(again i dont remeber if its this one that can do that), if it can, move it all the way torwards the back of the car. very rarely is it due to a worn clutch fork, but then again it does happen, then clech the play in that. i hope thats what you mean by the way!
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if it is hard to get INTO gear from a stop then it could be the clutch not disengaging all the way. make sure there is no air in the lines. check free play n pedal hieght. if you suspect the pilot bearing is bad leave it in a gear while at a dead stop and listen for whining noise. i dont remeber on this certain trans( ive seen too many) but sometimes you can move the slave cylinder about a quater of an inch(again i dont remeber if its this one that can do that), if it can, move it all the way torwards the back of the car. very rarely is it due to a worn clutch fork, but then again it does happen, then clech the play in that. i hope thats what you mean by the way!
Thank you.
#15
Not trying to rag on you, but if you need reassurance on where to drain and fill your tranny from, rebuilding the thing could run into a couple months of frustrations for you. A shop or knowledgable friend could do it in a few days depending on parts availability but that will cost a few hundred dollars. With some machanical appitude and common sence its really not that complicated. If the oil change does not help and it becomes real bad, another option is to find a used tranny to swap in. Quicker / easier than the rebuild, plus you could fix the bad one while still driving the car. Then you'd have a spare just in case. Not a bad thing to have for a thirty something year old car.
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Not trying to rag on you, but if you need reassurance on where to drain and fill your tranny from, rebuilding the thing could run into a couple months of frustrations for you. A shop or knowledgable friend could do it in a few days depending on parts availability but that will cost a few hundred dollars. With some machanical appitude and common sence its really not that complicated. If the oil change does not help and it becomes real bad, another option is to find a used tranny to swap in. Quicker / easier than the rebuild, plus you could fix the bad one while still driving the car. Then you'd have a spare just in case. Not a bad thing to have for a thirty something year old car.
does doing the 5050 mix, last/ feel good as long as using full synth? or is that question a matter of opinion that is going to start a whole giant debate. If this changing tran oil is like a bandaid, i dont want it to be one of those crappy plastic ones that last for like 2 days and come off when you sweat.
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if it is hard to get INTO gear from a stop then it could be the clutch not disengaging all the way. make sure there is no air in the lines. check free play n pedal hieght. if you suspect the pilot bearing is bad leave it in a gear while at a dead stop and listen for whining noise. i dont remeber on this certain trans( ive seen too many) but sometimes you can move the slave cylinder about a quater of an inch(again i dont remeber if its this one that can do that), if it can, move it all the way torwards the back of the car. very rarely is it due to a worn clutch fork, but then again it does happen, then clech the play in that. i hope thats what you mean by the way!
thanks.
if problem is still bad after oil change, ill take a quick video of what im talking about in case im leaving anything out.
#18
Comming out of a gear is normally not a problem. Two gears will disengage easily because they are both spinning at the same rate. Not so when you are trying to engage two different diameter of gears turning different speeds. People are pointing at the synchro's because their job is to equalize (synchronize) the RPM's of the specific two gears being engaged. When they are spinning the same speed the teeth mesh together much easier. If the friction material or surface of the synchro wears out, it loses its ability to spin the other gear up or down speed and they will enage more stubbornly. Changing your tranny fluid can help improve this performance but only to a point. Also, you can chip, burr or deform the edge of a gear making engagement more difficult, but normally gears are hardened to a point where they just break instead of deform.
BTW, if your problem WAS clutch related, not only would it affect every gear change it could also make make comming out of a gear a little difficult too, due to having a constant or partical load on the gear train from the drive train (wheels, rear diff and propeller shaft). The whole gear set moves easier when you take the drive load (pressure) off by pushing in and engaging the clutch.
BTW, if your problem WAS clutch related, not only would it affect every gear change it could also make make comming out of a gear a little difficult too, due to having a constant or partical load on the gear train from the drive train (wheels, rear diff and propeller shaft). The whole gear set moves easier when you take the drive load (pressure) off by pushing in and engaging the clutch.
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Comming out of a gear is normally not a problem. Two gears will disengage easily because they are both spinning at the same rate. Not so when you are trying to engage two different diameter of gears turning different speeds. People are pointing at the synchro's because their job is to equalize (synchronize) the RPM's of the specific two gears being engaged. When they are spinning the same speed the teeth mesh together much easier. If the friction material or surface of the synchro wears out, it loses its ability to spin the other gear up or down speed and they will enage more stubbornly. Changing your tranny fluid can help improve this performance but only to a point. Also, you can chip, burr or deform the edge of a gear making engagement more difficult, but normally gears are hardened to a point where they just break instead of deform.
BTW, if your problem WAS clutch related, not only would it affect every gear change it could also make make comming out of a gear a little difficult too, due to having a constant or partical load on the gear train from the drive train (wheels, rear diff and propeller shaft). The whole gear set moves easier when you take the drive load (pressure) off by pushing in and engaging the clutch.
BTW, if your problem WAS clutch related, not only would it affect every gear change it could also make make comming out of a gear a little difficult too, due to having a constant or partical load on the gear train from the drive train (wheels, rear diff and propeller shaft). The whole gear set moves easier when you take the drive load (pressure) off by pushing in and engaging the clutch.
#20
^ he knows wats up! Thank you banzai for saving me sum lengthly typing! i still kinda dont understand if you have to drop rpm to match shaft speeds in ALL gears?! very rarely have i seen all the syncros go at the same time is why i ask. definately change the oil. and banzai is right you would feel resistance coming out of gear if the clutch were sticking. i have yet to see a "stage 3" in a stock 7 with no major upgrades. seems overkill and depending on the pressure plate rating, can sometimes hurt your thrust bearings.
#21
they can as all these parts are sold individually, but usually if those are worn there is also something else of importance worn down too. Change you oil First!
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RB header exhaust carb and msd ignition coils is what i have discovered to be aftermarket so far.
anyways thanks guys for your input. ill change the oil and tell you how it goes after that. update either tonight or tomorrow.
#23
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On your question regarding the drain and fill plugs, the large hex plug on the center bottom is the drain; the square-drive plug on the left side halfway up is the fill hole. Don't use pliers on it, use an adjustable wrench like a Crescent wrench.
You need the vehicle raised and level (measure for level using the frame rail) before you fill the trans. If the car's not pretty much level, it may not drain completely, and you'll possibly get an improper fill level.
Time to download your Factory Service Manual (FSM) from the link in the faq, too. It answers a bazillion questions without having to type or wait for replies.
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the fill plug is a 14mm, so you can use an open 14mm wrench. always remove the fill plug first, because if it sticks you can't refill it!
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Yeh. I've read that in other posts. Seems to be the most given piece of advice. Thank you for the input. Saturday is when I'm going to do this.