1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Clutch Slave leaking

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Old 12-12-08, 07:54 AM
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Clutch Slave leaking

Hey guys,

I replaced my clutch master a few months ago. I noticed my pedal felt a bit weird this morning and I took a look at the reservoir - it was almost empty. I filled it up temporarily. What is the easiest way to replace the slave? It's at a very hard to reach area. Is it any easier from under the car? (It's winter here and I'd like to do it in the least time possible ). I actually didn't even check if my master is leaking again....I hope it is instead of the slave.
Old 12-12-08, 11:12 AM
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its held by two nuts...thats it......replacing it is very easy....i used an extension to get to it and that did the trick for me...oh and go here for a new one

www.rockauto.com

they start at $12 for a new one on that site
Old 12-12-08, 11:15 AM
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It's very common for the one to give out after replacing one of them. The pressures from a new master cylinder will blow out a old slave in weeks even days.
Old 12-12-08, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by johnwest
Hey guys,

I replaced my clutch master a few months ago. I noticed my pedal felt a bit weird this morning and I took a look at the reservoir - it was almost empty. I filled it up temporarily. What is the easiest way to replace the slave? It's at a very hard to reach area. Is it any easier from under the car? (It's winter here and I'd like to do it in the least time possible ). I actually didn't even check if my master is leaking again....I hope it is instead of the slave.
Not completely finished, but this link should help.

Clutch Hydraulics
Old 12-12-08, 01:21 PM
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Thanks. I saw that link from another clutch related thread.

Are the two screws hard to get to? I was going to do it at the same time as the master, but it was during a downpour so I never got around to it. It looks like you have the 13b, I read somewhere that the slave is easier to remove from that...unless the article was FC specific.

Last edited by johnwest; 12-12-08 at 01:26 PM.
Old 12-12-08, 01:47 PM
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AL

might not be a bad idea to take a good look at the soft line to the slave. if its old, dry rotted, or is buldging near the metal ends you will want to replace it as well, since it will be the new weak link in the system once you replace the slave.
Old 12-12-08, 02:42 PM
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I've always found the master to be a much tougher reach than the slave. With offset wrenches, the slave is not a challenge at all.
Old 12-12-08, 03:54 PM
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The clutch master is a total PITA. Took me forever to get the old one off and the new one on, because those crazy Japanese seem to think everyone on the planet has hands the same size as theirs. The slave was a breeze. As long as you don't have the beehive oil cooler it should be easy as pie. Even if you do have the beehive it should still be easier than the master was. It's just two bolts on top of the trans bell, and just make sure the pushrod is lined up when you put the new one on. Just be careful with the bolts, the holes tend to strip. I stripped one of mine and dj55b stripped both of his.
Old 12-12-08, 04:26 PM
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It is a little easier without the bee hive. If you look closely at the pictures you will see I used two different cars. The Black one is my 84 GSL 12A. The red one is Nobodymv's 13B SE. A knuckle attachment makes it simple, but it can be done with a couple of extensions. Be sure to bleed the system dry first to avoid spilling brake fluid. Push the piston in by hand before you mount the slave or the mounting holes won't line up.
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