Originally Posted by black_sunshine

Want another tip? How about a really simple way to pull the pilot bearing? Okay, load some soaking-wet paper towels into the hole. Take a dowel that fits nicely and hit it fast and hard. If that doesn't work, take a piece of all-thread, two nuts, and a washer that would normally fit inside the pilot bearing hole (not the pilot bearing!). Grind two sides of it down so it will slide-inside the pilot bearing. Now, put your nut on the all-thread, and the washer behind that. Slide the washer in at an angle, and hold it there. Put a deep-well socket (I used a 13/16" sparkplug socket) over the all thread, and put the last nut on the top of the socket. Hold the end of the all-thread with a pair of pliers, and crank the nut down with a wrench. Voila, it comes out as easily as it goes in.

Originally Posted by Sluttypatton

For those of you who have encountered the infamous pilot bearing problem and don't want to buy the 100 dollar Mazda puller, or risk using a dremel, I thought I would include a little trick I used (note I am not taking credit for the idea, I found the original idea on the Rx7club message board posted by "black sunshine"). Here is a way to construct a puller that costs 3 dollars in change. I thought I would post it since I couldn't find any suggestions about how to tackle the pilot bearing on this forum.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/ga...345Puller2.jpg
1) At least 3 inches (3 1/2 would be better) of 1/4" all thread (or a 3 inch 1/4" bolt with the head hacked off). Then thread a nut all the way to the end.
2) A small washer (optional, but there will be a fair amount of force on this so it helps add a little strength). 15mm diameter.
3) A large washer to fit against the next peice and allow the nut on the first peice to rotate without getting stuck in the socket (#4). 20mm diameter.
4) A 13/16 socket, shallow sockets are easier to use, and will be necessary if you only have 3 inches of all thread. This socket will press against the outside of the eccentric shaft and the bearing will be pulled inside of it. It will not be damaged.
5) This is where the bearing is in relation to all of the other peices.
6) A washer that just barely fits inside the eccentric shaft, but not past the bearing, with two sides ground down so when layed flat it will fit through the bearing. It has a 20mm diameter.
7) A smaller washer. This is necessary since #6 has its sides ground down and will bend very easily when force is applied. This will help keep the washer flat. I used a 15mm diameter, but it doesn't need to be exactly that size.
8) A small nut that fits behind the bearing. The bearing has a 16-17mm inner diameter without the inner race or needles, so any nut smaller than 16mm should fit. Mine was 10mm.
To use this, assemble 1-4 in the shown order, leaving 6-8 off. Use a flathead screwdriver to break the inner race of the bearing and remove all of the needles and peices. Take number 8 and place it as far back inside the eccentric shaft as possible and behind the bearing. Place number 7 in front of number 8. Insert number 6 in front of 7 and 8 by inserting flat and turning upright, don't worry if it doesn't fit completely upright. Now pick up the assembled all thread section and thread it through the washers already inside and into the nut inside the eccentric shaft. Make sure the socket has it's open end towards the e-shaft and is riding on the outside of the e-shaft. Now hold the all thread to keep it from turning and tighten the front nut on the number 1 peice until the bearing pulls into the socket and out of the eccentric shaft.
This might not work for some of the more stubborn bearings, but if it doesn't, so what your out 3 bucks.
Total parts needed:
1 - 3 1/2 inches of 1/4" all thread
2 - Small Nuts
2 - 15mm washers
2 - 20mm washers
1 - 13/16 socket
Note that the sizes may not be exact, I did measure them, but you if you find something that fits better for you, don't feel you need to follow my sizes...they are meant only to guide you.
I hope this helps.