Cleaning up
12-06-03, 02:07 PM
#1
trainwreck
Thread Starter
Cleaning up
How do i clean the inside of my engine basically. I took out my 5th and 6th port sleeve thing and its all gummed up in there. Does anyone know how i could clean the holes where they go out and inside some also without having to tear it apart. Most of the stuff looks like carbon buildup
12-06-03, 08:46 PM
#4
trainwreck
Thread Starter
so i can just spray that in where i removed my 5th and 6th port things nad let it sit and put on my intake manifolds or do i have to rinse it out somehow
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12-06-03, 09:46 PM
#8
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82 transam, thats what it says on the can, but you can also use it as a degreaser ans scrub/wipe as desired.
on the can it says to waste a whole can into the carb/throttle body while its running and is at operating temp. I have several rotors on the bench and some are very carbony so i sprayed some in one of the bath tubs and let it sit, and it works better than anything else I have tried yet. The carbon turned soft and could be wiped off the rotor face.
on the can it says to waste a whole can into the carb/throttle body while its running and is at operating temp. I have several rotors on the bench and some are very carbony so i sprayed some in one of the bath tubs and let it sit, and it works better than anything else I have tried yet. The carbon turned soft and could be wiped off the rotor face.
12-06-03, 09:47 PM
#9
how do i wipe the inside down?
12-06-03, 10:32 PM
#10
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i don't think you should spray anything into there...what i'm planning on doing is taking the upper and lower intakes out and rinsing them in a carb cleaner bath overnight...then ALL the carbon should be off...
12-07-03, 08:52 AM
#11
trainwreck
Thread Starter
yes, but that doesnt help my problem. My problem is inside the engine, where the secondaries sit. I need those cleaned so my secondaries will turn when the actuators do.
12-07-03, 12:31 PM
#13
How I clean my engines (rotary and piston) using Amsoil Power Foam:
1. Warm the car up to operating temp.
2. Remove airfilter lid and element.
3. With the engine running, spray about 1/4 can of PF right down the carb while you use your free hand to work the throttle manually to keep it running. It will smoke and stink like crazy, this is normal.
4. Continue to run the engine until it ALMOST quits smoking (this ensures that there is still some PF present in the chambers and on the rotor faces) then shut it down.
5. Disconnect the coils, and crank another 1/4 can into the motor. Make sure to dump the power foam that accumulates in the secondaries by opening the secondaries manually. It will take several times of filling the carb, dumping and cranking to do 1/4 can.
6. Now wait 30-45 minutes, or up to several hours if you want, although I think most of the cleaning action is achieved while the engine is hot.
7. Reconnect the coils and take the car out for a drive of at least 30 minutes at highway speeds to insure that any loosened scale gets thoroughly blown out of the motor and doesn't redeposit itself somewhere worse, like an apex seal slot.
I've had good results with this method, the cars are noticeably smoother running, with better throttle response. I usually do this about every six months.
1. Warm the car up to operating temp.
2. Remove airfilter lid and element.
3. With the engine running, spray about 1/4 can of PF right down the carb while you use your free hand to work the throttle manually to keep it running. It will smoke and stink like crazy, this is normal.
4. Continue to run the engine until it ALMOST quits smoking (this ensures that there is still some PF present in the chambers and on the rotor faces) then shut it down.
5. Disconnect the coils, and crank another 1/4 can into the motor. Make sure to dump the power foam that accumulates in the secondaries by opening the secondaries manually. It will take several times of filling the carb, dumping and cranking to do 1/4 can.
6. Now wait 30-45 minutes, or up to several hours if you want, although I think most of the cleaning action is achieved while the engine is hot.
7. Reconnect the coils and take the car out for a drive of at least 30 minutes at highway speeds to insure that any loosened scale gets thoroughly blown out of the motor and doesn't redeposit itself somewhere worse, like an apex seal slot.
I've had good results with this method, the cars are noticeably smoother running, with better throttle response. I usually do this about every six months.
12-07-03, 01:22 PM
#15
I've never owned a fuel-injected motor, so I really can't say. Gotta get the stuff down the intake somehow, for sure. Once the Power Foam is cranked into the motor, the procedure would be the same.
edit: I copied and pasted the instructions above from a previous post, so that's why the reference to aircleaner lids, carbs and such. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.
edit: I copied and pasted the instructions above from a previous post, so that's why the reference to aircleaner lids, carbs and such. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.
Last edited by Wankelguy; 12-07-03 at 01:25 PM.
12-07-03, 05:35 PM
#16
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Originally posted by inittab
PowerFoam is the way to go but after re-assembly I'd take the car for a spirited drive to blow any carbon particles out of the rotor chambers.
PowerFoam is the way to go but after re-assembly I'd take the car for a spirited drive to blow any carbon particles out of the rotor chambers.
12-07-03, 06:38 PM
#17
trainwreck
Thread Starter
One problem with the warming up and running it through, my engine has no intake on it, and i cant really put it together until i get my 5th and 6th port secondary things to work, they stick whenever i put them in and ive tried wiping the stuff out and its not working that great
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