CHEF_EG_1

Well, after some careful scrutinizing of my parts list by a couple well known rotary shops (MazdaTrix, Pineapple Racing, and MarvelSpeed), I may not be needing everything that I had thought I did, and with the hookups that I *may* be receiving, I won't need to shell out as much in certain areas of this build, and I can sink them into other areas.


Also, my intention of having it autoX as well as drag, daily driving, and Bonneville's run have all been changed. The car will now only be street driven (occasionally) and the Bonneville car. Getting all these different suspension pieces and wheel and tire combinations is a HUGE expense. However, picking one suspension, wheel/tire combo will not only help me cutoff a lot of the dollars from the project build, but they can be better invested into wind tunnel time. Some friends of mine at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign (UIUC), as well as Illinois Wesleyan University (IWU), have both agreed to help with the engineering part of the project, the aerodynamics in particular.

ZYounker's 79 RX7 Widebody is to be my daily driver/autoX/strip/track car. There are some things I want to do to that, both show and go, but I haven't quite decided on all those details yet. The only things I have set in stone, are that it will be 1996 Impalla SS Triple Black, with House of Kolor Fire Gold KolorShift flames, and 18" VeilSide Andrew Racing F mesh wheels.


With so many good points to have, it wouldn't be complete without some bad points.....

the 83 GSL is R_O_U_G_H. The *** end is almost completely rusted through. So, it looks like we have some bodywork issues to sort out, before heading to Bonneville, or even down Main St. for that matter.

There is NOTHING left in the engine bay. all the remaining parts (a/c, ps pump, all that accessory ****) is mostly either gone, or tossed in the trunk. So, it'll be fun sifting through all that, because one of the things that is making this car even more unbelievable is the fact that I WILL have a/c.





But lastly, I want you to all know about the paint scheme for the car... and to maybe help generate some more support, and get the word out there a little bit...


The car will be Pearl White. Every one that comes to work on the car, or makes a large financial contribution, or is willing to come to Bloomington, IL to do SOMETHING for the benefit of the car/team, will be signing their name with a black paint pen, and the whole car will be clearcoated over the names. I want it to be easy for all the magazines to see who helped, and who was involved. I simply *can not* do this car myself, so I am giving everyone that wants to work on the car the opportunity to get their name out there as well... free advertising .

*edit* Everyone also has the option of putting on a black vinyl decal, and I will clear over all of them. Preferably no larger than 2"x12"

Thanks again for the support, y'all.

FD Racer

what exactly is a chefasaurus anyways?

CHEF_EG_1

hahaha... one of our (Kurgan, Zyounker, and I) buddies, Jim, creates dinosaur names for everyone. I got dubbed Chefasaurus at the bar one night, and I figured that since I was buying a Rex, just call the car Chefasaurus Rex.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

He needs a hobby .

~T.J.

Manntis

best one I've heard is 'retardasaurus'... hard to be mad @ someone when they call you that, it's just so Grade 3...

Maguire

iTrader: (1)

HAHAHAHHHA!!!! Its amazing how funny some things can be at 9:30 on a monday morning.

JEC-31

Ha! I knew that your University connections would help you out, Chef. I once did some time at Michigan Tech, where they were all about "special research projects" that they could have fun with.

Down to business: I'm a CMM technician. I can measure anything in 3 dimensions down to ridiculous decimal places, if given reference points to measure from. I work for a medium-sized auto supplier, so most of the work I do is automotive-based. So if you need:

A) Verification of a custom-made component's adherence to design specifications and tolerances. This covers things like hole sizes, locations, and roundess, flatness of surfaces, distances between features, and profile (funky shape in CAD data vs. funky shape on part)

B) Reverse-engineering. This covers creating CAD data for duplication/modification from an existing component.

Then shoot me a pm, eh?

CHEF_EG_1

Holy Crap.... you lost me at the part about "Down to business..."


THIS is why you all get paid the big bucks.... to use big words, and do complicated **** on computers that "civilians" don't understand. Me, I get paid to cook for sorority girls. Life is good But in all seriousness, ANY thing you can contribute is welcomed. As far as Aerodynamics, I'm looking at having a front airdam of some kind, a minimal spoiler, if any, a belly pan, spun aluminum wheel covers, and *maybe* a body chop. Keep me posted on what all it's gonna take to do it, and do it right.

JEC-31

My complicated **** vs. sorority girls? You win, my man, if you want to trade jobs just say the word and I'll be there quicker than you can say, "4-rotors!"

Anyway, what I can do for your areo plans: if you use scale models for your wind-tunnel testing (because they're rather easy to make changes to) and come up with shapes that you need to reproduce in proper material and sized for the real car, I can help. I can turn a custom-sculpted shape into Computer-Aided-Drafting data which can be scaled up for your fabricator to use in making the full-size parts. It's not easy, but it's fun.

And I'm only a few hours drive away, up in Grand Rapids, Michigan.

PM me!

CHEF_EG_1

do you have wind tunnel access? if so, let me know, and we can go from there. As far as the wind tunnel time here, they're gonna charge me a LOT for it, because they hafta crank up their fans to handle it... most of the time, they say their fans never get above 170mph, but they are capable of doing 300mph....faster moving parts = faster breaking parts.

setzep

So you plan on doing this to a rusted out FB? Hmm... good luck. I'd do it to the 79. I was intrested in buying the widebody from him but then we kind of just lost contact, it looked like a good car from what I could see.

just my .02

JEC-31

No wind tunnels around here, sorry. I don't even think that our local colleges have one.

Setzep has a point on starting with a rusty shell, you might want to wander down south or out west and pick up a clean shell.

CHEF_EG_1

it's just the back hatch area. I'm getting a hookup for that stuff from an autobody friend of mine.


The 79 widebody, while as cool as it would be to do, will have *TOO MUCH* downforce, to the point where it would become drag. Drag = the DEVIL in top speed runs.

setzep

Have you looked under the storage bins yet? Or how about where the rear suspension mounts to the body? Another place to look for is where the steering gear box mounts to the body. These cars rust from the inside out so I'd go over the car very carefully. If you really want to build what you say you are going to build I would settle for no less than a totaly rust free FB/SA. Just my opinion.

-Cam

CHEF_EG_1

It's getting put on the "rotisserie" as soon as it's in my possession, so that it can be completelygone through to see if anything else needs MAJOR work. I have also decided that it is getting a 3" chop, so the back hatch, side windows, door windows, doors themselves. and windshield will all be done by the only DOT-approved autoglass specialty store (in custom sizes and shapes) in IL that I know of, ACE Glass, in Bloomington.


I agree that a pristine shell would be a better start, however, this shell is FREE, gratis, no charge, comped, on the house, you get my point...

As hard as it is to say, especially with a build list that's well over 20K, near 30K, I'm trying to keep this a budget project.... with a free shell, that saves me the money that I would have to spend on that.

Manntis

sometimes a $500 shell is cheaper than a free rustbucket, if you get my meaning...

setzep

coulden't have said it better myself...

CHEF_EG_1

I understand completely the message you are trying to convey.... obviously, a pristine donor shell would be a better start.... however, my buddy that is giving me the 83 GSL, has already volunteered to help with the project, and by him only being an hour away at most, he's within close reach. He knows the ins and outs of this car better than I do...


He's providing the car, basically. I'm providing the fundage and vision, and direction. Hopefully some vendors will help in the fundage dept.

Manntis

Tons of pristine shells in the smaller towns of Utah, Nevada, Arizona, etc.

Because you're building a one-off, getting sponsorship DURING construction will be a very tough sell. I mean, the jet cars breaking the freakin' sound barrier had trouble getting sponsorships...

metalliman

Hey Chef!

I remember reading one of your earlier posts pertaining to your price list, including those $1900 E-shafts. If you have a blueprint of the E-shaft, and you know what kind of material you want it made out of, I'm sure I can quote you a price well under $1900.

I'm a CNC programmer/operator at local machine shop, we specialize in making parts for steam turbine generators, mostly high temp alloys, and super alloys. None the less, I'm sure I can make room for a "government job" and cut the overhead significantly. Let me know if you're interested!

Andy

CHEF_EG_1

OOOH OOOH OOOH!!!!!!


HELLLZ YEAH!


This is a picture of the one from the R26B, which was used in the 787B LeMans car, but nevertheless, you get the general drift of it.


I need it to be made as 1 solid piece, of basically 2 -12A e-shafts sammiched together, know what I mean?

The actual blueprints I don't have but I do have how I want the firing order, if it's any consolation...
(Rotors are numbered from front to back, 1-2-3-4) 1+3, 2+4

CHEF_EG_1

sorry, forgot to include the pic and some other info...


The 1+3/2+4 configuration is basically like a HUGE 2-rotor... I think they are timed either 90 or 180 degrees apart.... ZYounker, Kurgan and I have had this conversation sooooo many times, and it's usually at the bar, so I forget most of what's said, and itall blurs into one.... bear with me .

metalliman

So you want your e-shaft different than what's in the picture, because the 787B's e-shaft obviously had a firing order rotors 1+2, 3+4, and they're 180 degrees apart. You're definitely going to need a detailed print or a sample. I'm not sure who you would need to contact, but I would make some sort of attempt of getting a hold of Mazda to see if they would release any of that information. Although I doubt they would, it's at least worth a try.

TOUGHGUY

It looks to me like the 26B shaft in the pic fires 1+4 / 2+3 and they are 180 out of phase.

Toughguy

lotsacars

Call me Captain Who-Gives-A-Flip, but the color on the 96 Impala SS isn't Triple Black, it's Standard Onyx Black.