I had a 4 bridge 12A lock-up on me & I got another 12A to build. Im interested in "Cheeseporting" it,How is this done?& Also how much can I port out the exhaust for a Race port?I need to know what to do& what not to do so I can get it right.

 

Cheeseport? Don't waste your time...

 

Not worth it?I thought it was more reliable than a full bridge?I dont want all the problems a Big Bridge has.

 

whats a cheeseport? is it dangerously cheesy?

 

We found out it's called 'drillports' and they don't work very well. Sorry Karis.

I'm still doing a half bridge.

 

There is a forum member karism that just had his engin cheese ported, and has had great problems, you might want to talk to him first.

 

If you have to ask that, you don't want to. I don't see how a bridgeport is more problematic? Except that it will actually yield results in power gains along with the choppy idle and less lowend power but a lot more highend.

For your Information, I never heard of real rotary shop anywhere using this type of porting EVER.

If anyone can support Actual data that a "Cheezeport" is anything but completely stupid, I welcome it. Heck, I never heard of it till I was on this furum, so it can't be the best at making any power or doing anything but waste your time.

Heres what you do: decide on what you want VS money. Then do this: streetport, bridgeport, j-port, or perpheral port. And then decide if you are going to turbo it.

 

what problems did he have? I have not read any problems so far...

not that I'm defending the cheesy ports or anything but it would be nice to know from him the actual problems.

I do have notice the large amount of half bridges popping up lately, I would much rather full bridge and do the proper oil mods. Seems like doing a half bridge is a waste of time, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Half-bridge is great if you wanna use the stock apex seals.

 

half-bridge is good for street use. it will give you the low rpm characteristics of a street port since a full bridge port is not designed for it.

 

yeah, im Lactose intollerant so that **** will give me ******* Diarreea Cha-Cha-Cha j/k im really not Lactose intollerant.

Dont wast your time with that CHEEZY PORT just do the bridge or a Hardcore LA, GANGBANGING STREET PORT

Good Luck



Ryan

 

Mike Haag in Northern California builds rotary engines for a long time. Does many IT and enduro rotaries for SCCA and NASA. You might not have heard of him because he's a small shop catering to the race crowd primarily. He did the 13b cheeseport I rode in back in summer of 1995. It was a 13B 4 port from an Rx-4. Made good power and sounded like a bridgeport. Supposedly cheeseport makes more low end then full bridge and more power than a streetport. It was not a waste of time, that car scooted real good.

Would I drive it on the street? Never drove it at low rpms, the jury's out on that one. Would I own one for MY racecar? I have good gearing and don't need low rpm torque so I bought a full J-bridge.

But remember, even a half bridgeport will kick and buck at low revs due to exhaust gas recirculation.

 

I still have housings & plates that were lapped& ported.(Rear plate is screwed up )So I can use the 4 bridge again(I afraid It will blow too Quick )I would have to do is get the rear plate bridged,I stil have new RB carbon seals that I plan to use again(1 broke but I already got a new one).I like the "cheeseport" concept,It sounds like there are mixed feelings on them on this forum.

 

How much material can I remove from the exhaust?
The housings are only slightly "cleaned "up but It still looks small ,I need some pics to help me out.

 

don't grind out the exhaust sleeve completely. keep it in there but grind it good. mabye 1/4" lip on the sleeve.

 

what does a cheeze port look like?

 

swiss cheese

 

This sounds like a fu**ing joke.. Cheese port! couldn't they come up with a better name. I think I would stick with what is proven and stay away from the fads. IMO.

 

OK> here it is....quezo de porte.

 

AGAIN...

Those things are known as "drill ports" and they SUCK. they create too much turbulance, and you can never get them to idle right. Mod for Mod, A properly running stock port will get more power.

Seriously, stick to a large street-port, or do a real bridge.
A Real bridgeport has the rotor housings notched as well.

 

The rotor housing notched? What do you mean by this. I am in the market to port mine. I am doing it myself and having trouble finding templates. I wanted to do a bridge, but housing notches? That sounds tricky. What is it? Do you have a pic of it

 

Read More Here.

 

Oh yeah, Thats what I know of as a J-Port. They call it a J-Bridge because it is simular to a bridgeport but it DOES comprimise the water seals (and engine life). But thanks for your insight.

 

Some would call that a j-bridge but to me it's just a bridge-port. If you look closely you'll notice the notching stops just short of the o-ring which means it doesn't compromise water sealing. J-port or monster-port is when the port goes right into the water jacket.

 

Exactly.

This is a J-Port