no_name

I have a 1985 GSL, and I can't get rid of my positive Chamber. I know I should be able to hit at least 1* positive, but I am sure I am not getting that ( maybe around 2.5-2*)

I just installed RB springs, and tokicos.... I think it raised my car, but I gues teh springs still need some time to settle.

So any one have any ideas to what is causing my positive chamber?.... and it is on both sides too.

I would like to have my chamber issue sloved ASAP as I have autox on teh 26 & 27th lol.

Thanks,

Ted.

GavinJuice

Camber.......not chamber

no_name

thanks lol.... but how about some help with my Camber? My car needs help lol

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

my inners of the tyres are worn is that caused by camber?

no_name

if the middle of the tire is worn your your tire pressure is to high

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

nope its more to the car side of the tire

no_name

is it right on the edge? or is it inbetween the middle and the edge of the tire?

If it is right on the edge it is either chamber or toe in

steve84GS TII

Camber is not the primary cause of tire wear.
Its toe angle that causes tire wear,and having the camber off, COMBINED with toe,will cause localized tire wear on the inside/outside edges of the tire.
Look at the rear tires of VW bugs,or 300ZX's.They have ridiculous amounts of camber from the factory,but if the toe angle is correct,they will not wear the insides of their tires at an abnormal rate.Incorrect toe angle causes tire scrub,and that will grind away whatever part of the tire is most in contact with the road.

There isnt really much way to adjust camber or caster on the 1st gen.Except for rotating the top of the strut towers.There are 4 possible positions,eash of which affects BOTH aspects at the same time.The center of the cap is slightly eccentric,so rotating the top will give you a couple degrees of caster and camber,but its best to let a shop take care of this,unless you have alignment measuring tools.

And be sure to tighten all suspension bolts and nuts when the suspension is compressed.This goes for anytime you change the springs,struts,links or bushings.If you bolt everything back up tight with the car jacked up,and the suspention drooping,all the moving parts of the suspension system will bind up,well before the car settles to its standard/lowered ride height.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

thanks sorry for bein a thread pirate arrr.. lol

Kentetsu

On the very top of the strut, if you look closely, you will find a small triange/arrow. Drop the strut and rotate the top so that the arrow is in the forward/inside position. This should give you max -camber... I did this to mine, and it helped quite a bit for handling. Beyond that, replace all suspension bushings and if that doesn't fix it then you'll need aftermarket camber plates.

no_name

Intresting, thansk for all the help. Kentetsu.... c=ould I botehr you for a picture of how you have your strut placed from a top view? (Installed on the car).

Also to change the topic a little, my car seems to lose its pull after abour 80kmh (50mph). What could be causing this?

I have a '85 GSL with rats nest removed.

Kentetsu

I'll try to get a pic but I'm very busy right now so it may be a few days. But if you look at the top of your strut and find that little arrow you should understand what I mean. Open the hood, and you will see a little plastic cap on the top of the strut, the arrow will be right next to that. The high end loss of power is most likely due to an old fuel filter.