Car's running hot...
#1
Car's running hot...
Okay, I've done everything I can think of to solve this problem...but my 84 GSL is STILL running hot. She's got a new t-stat, radiator, hoses, electric fan (which is wired to run all the time), and a new waterpump. I also replaced the 3 stock cats w/ a bonez hi-flow cat (in case the cats were clogged, and causing the higher temps).
I simply can't get her to run cool. Every once in a while the t-stat will drop to the middle mark, but it'll eventually move upward again. It usually hovers around the first mark above the middle, and sometimes goes to the second mark (right before the H), which is when I turn on the heater & fan on high...
I have seen some smoke coming from around the exhaust housing, where the DP comes off the engine. RP had put on the hi-flow cat, and they said they checked the DP, and it looked clear, and I think they said they took off the precat when they put the hi-flow cat on??
I'm pretty much running out of ideas. The only thing I haven't replaced is the carb. I did hear that it's possible one of the engine seals has a tiny hole in it, and that's causing the higher temps, but it would have to be so small that it didn't blow any bubbles when the engine was pressure tested, cuz the test showed everything was ok.
The only other thing I can think of is I know the oil cooler is leaking oil, but I don't know if that would affect anything?? That, and she failed emissions today miserably (very high HC and CO), so I took it to a emissions repair shop to see if it can be repaired (or if I can get a waiver). Again, I dunno if that has anything to do w/ the higher temps, but that's everything.
If anyone can help me out or point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it, because RP told me they dunno what's causing the problem...and the next step would be to tear down the engine to check and replace the seals...
Thanks
~Ramy
EDIT: Before someone says it, YES, I checked the coolant levels, they're fine, both the radiator and the reservoir are full hehe
I simply can't get her to run cool. Every once in a while the t-stat will drop to the middle mark, but it'll eventually move upward again. It usually hovers around the first mark above the middle, and sometimes goes to the second mark (right before the H), which is when I turn on the heater & fan on high...
I have seen some smoke coming from around the exhaust housing, where the DP comes off the engine. RP had put on the hi-flow cat, and they said they checked the DP, and it looked clear, and I think they said they took off the precat when they put the hi-flow cat on??
I'm pretty much running out of ideas. The only thing I haven't replaced is the carb. I did hear that it's possible one of the engine seals has a tiny hole in it, and that's causing the higher temps, but it would have to be so small that it didn't blow any bubbles when the engine was pressure tested, cuz the test showed everything was ok.
The only other thing I can think of is I know the oil cooler is leaking oil, but I don't know if that would affect anything?? That, and she failed emissions today miserably (very high HC and CO), so I took it to a emissions repair shop to see if it can be repaired (or if I can get a waiver). Again, I dunno if that has anything to do w/ the higher temps, but that's everything.
If anyone can help me out or point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it, because RP told me they dunno what's causing the problem...and the next step would be to tear down the engine to check and replace the seals...
Thanks
~Ramy
EDIT: Before someone says it, YES, I checked the coolant levels, they're fine, both the radiator and the reservoir are full hehe
Last edited by FDNewbie; 08-12-04 at 05:36 PM.
#3
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
Did you have the rad cap checked? What temp is the t-stat? Last question, did you have someone scan with infra red temp indicator to verify actual temp of motor versus gauge?
rx7doctor
rx7doctor
Not to dismiss that idea, but if the gauge wasn't working, I'd still be concerned, since like I said, I've seen smoke (not colored smoke, but "clear" smoke, more or less) from the great heat being generated. That's gotta be coming from somewhere...
#4
Airflow is my life
Well Id think about having the gauge reading verified. Know any racers? Most have a infra red thermometer. Is it running that high temp regardless of road speed?
#5
Racers? In that case, I'd hope RP has one...cuz I'm almost sure they race 1st and 2nd gens...and definitely know a lot of other guys who race 7s. I'll ask them.
Hot regardless of road speed, I'd say yes, in the sense that the temps can be fine, then all of a sudden they shoot up, w/ no correlation to how fast I'm going. It can run hot when I'm idling, when I'm driving slow, when I'm driving faster...
Hot regardless of road speed, I'd say yes, in the sense that the temps can be fine, then all of a sudden they shoot up, w/ no correlation to how fast I'm going. It can run hot when I'm idling, when I'm driving slow, when I'm driving faster...
#6
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (13)
Hot or not hot?
The question still remains, did you replace the cap? Also ask the shop what degree
t-stat that put in. The infra red (hand held scanners) are at most shops. Call around and tell them your problem and see if they can scan it for you. Might find a
radiator shop in your area that uses them. Now, you said that your coolant level is stable. If you had an internal leak going out the exhaust, your levlel would slowly go down. I dont know if a block leakage test will work on a rotary? There will be some normal condensation burn off thru the exhaust, this is normal untill it comes
up to operating temp. You you take off the cats and bring the engine up to operating temp and you get excessive water, then you have a problem. Only other thing you can do for parts is replace the temp sender which is easy to do and not
very much money. rx7doctor
t-stat that put in. The infra red (hand held scanners) are at most shops. Call around and tell them your problem and see if they can scan it for you. Might find a
radiator shop in your area that uses them. Now, you said that your coolant level is stable. If you had an internal leak going out the exhaust, your levlel would slowly go down. I dont know if a block leakage test will work on a rotary? There will be some normal condensation burn off thru the exhaust, this is normal untill it comes
up to operating temp. You you take off the cats and bring the engine up to operating temp and you get excessive water, then you have a problem. Only other thing you can do for parts is replace the temp sender which is easy to do and not
very much money. rx7doctor
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#8
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
If the electric fan is blowing backwards, it will affect the cooling dramatically, even at high speeds. Even if it feels like it is blowing in the right direction while mounted, it might not be... I say this from experience. Try disabling the e-fan and taking it down the highway and see if it runs cooler than it did before.
#9
Lives on the Forum
Is your ignition timing set correctly? I know you said that your oil cooler is leaking, but does it still have good flow? I think the oil cooler carries something like half of the overall cooling duties for the engine.
#10
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make sure the thermostat they replaced is a genuine mazda part. the temp settings on others can be quite a bit off. if you have a haynes it will tell you how to test the thermostat. hope you figure things out.
#11
I can has a Hemi? Yes...
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by nopistonsforjoe
make sure the thermostat they replaced is a genuine mazda part. the temp settings on others can be quite a bit off. if you have a haynes it will tell you how to test the thermostat. hope you figure things out.
#12
you might wanna try flushing your cooling system with prestone radiator cleaner cause you might have alot of build up in the engine if the person before you didnt take care of it
#13
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Is your ignition timing set correctly? I know you said that your oil cooler is leaking, but does it still have good flow? I think the oil cooler carries something like half of the overall cooling duties for the engine.
Your point about the oil cooler is a very good one...I dunno how much cooling it actually contributes to the engine, but like I said, it's a valid point. I guess it would be wise to replace it. I looked on Mazdatrix, and it doesn't seem like they still have them for sale (84 12A GSL). Does Mazda still make 'em?
The cap is the right one, I double checked before I bought it, and unfortunately, it's not the gauge. The certified emissions repair shop I took the car to (to get it to pass emissions) said they got it to where the #s were decent, then the temp shot up, and the numbers went through the roof. The guy confirmed w/ me it was the engine actually running very very hot. They're still exploring the reason for this.
Originally Posted by nopistonsforjoe
make sure the thermostat they replaced is a genuine mazda part. the temp settings on others can be quite a bit off. if you have a haynes it will tell you how to test the thermostat. hope you figure things out.
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
Hey dude, I'm back in town.... Are you seeing the smoke coming off the new Pipes, or is it coming from the actual exhaust manifold? You still need my stock carb? What are you doing tomorrow? maybe we can get together and figure this thing out...
Dan
Dan
#15
Dan, the smoke's coming from before the new bonez hi-flow cat. It's comin from right around where the DP leaves the engine, and extends to a bit before the cat.
I'm still interested in your stock carb (if it's still in good condition hehe). I'm game for tomarrow, only prob is the car is at the shop (P&B Auto in Manassas, about a mile north of RP, ya know it?)
~Ramy
I'm still interested in your stock carb (if it's still in good condition hehe). I'm game for tomarrow, only prob is the car is at the shop (P&B Auto in Manassas, about a mile north of RP, ya know it?)
~Ramy
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