1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

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Old 03-29-03, 09:19 AM
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Carbs

I believe I am going to get a new Carb. The one I have been looking at is the Weber 45 DCOE one. People have told me that they give much more power and torque in the first and second gears. This is exactly what I am looking for. How long would this project take to do? Thanks for your time. Also, I heard these carbs are a pain to tune. Is this true?
Old 03-29-03, 12:19 PM
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Re: Carbs

Originally posted by RixRotary7
I believe I am going to get a new Carb. The one I have been looking at is the Weber 45 DCOE one. People have told me that they give much more power and torque in the first and second gears. This is exactly what I am looking for. How long would this project take to do? Thanks for your time. Also, I heard these carbs are a pain to tune. Is this true?
how long would it take to do?

if you get the carb(and its been jeted, ect...) and manifold it is just a matter of puting it on. should take about 15-30min to put on. and a wile (if you dont know what your doing) to tune it. go to some one who knows what there doing to tune it.

these carbs are a pain to tune?

i cant talk for the others but i have not had to many problems tuning my carb. mine just has a mind of its own and for some reason will "de-tune" it self. one day it runs like a champ. the second day its runny funny. have to tweak it again.

i have a weber 48 IDA, no major complaints here.

i'd say go for it.
Old 03-29-03, 12:31 PM
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i cant talk for the others but i have not had to many problems tuning my carb. mine just has a mind of its own and for some reason will "de-tune" it self. one day it runs like a champ. the second day its runny funny. have to tweak it again.
HOLY CRAP!! I THOUGHT I WAS THE ONLY ONE!!

Ok man, in reality, it took me two days to put my DCOE on. Thats only like 5 work hours though. The main reason it took two days was because I didnt get everything I needed the night I went to put it on before the stores closed.

Anyway, its pretty simple. Take all the emissions stuff off, get the wiring harness out of your way, unbolt the carb and manifold, bolt the new stuff up, get the linkages and everything hooked up, and youre done.

Its basically a good carb. You just need to get it jetted and tuned perfectly and you would be happy with it. My carb definatly has more power and torque pretty much everywhere, but is most noticeable in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd .

~T.J.
Old 03-29-03, 06:36 PM
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EVERYBODY, what about the holley carbs? I have recently read about them as well. Which one, the Weber or Holley, would you recommend? Also, where could I get one of these puppies cheap?
Old 03-29-03, 08:20 PM
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if your looking for cheep then go holley.. thats what i run and i am told they are a good carb.. best for overall hp.. there pretty cheep and everywhere, not hard to find.
Webber is a great carb as well but harder to find.. I guess its up to you.. Take a look on the RB website and they have a couple of bolt on carbs for you..

Tyler
Old 03-29-03, 10:45 PM
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Thanks tyler
Old 03-30-03, 01:12 AM
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rb says their holly carb is "modified". and i have heard elsewhwre that you cant just go to the store and buy any old holly style carb and use it in your rotary. why is that? because holly carbs ARE cheap... especially other companies knockoffs therof.
Old 03-30-03, 04:14 PM
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its all about jetting sizes i believe.. im sure thats all the really do to modify them.. I picked up my RB Holley 600 for pretty cheep.. no idea how its diffrenet
Old 03-30-03, 04:49 PM
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they make a few internal mods i dont know about, but also tap the fuel bowl level set screw or whatever its called for an oil line. also has an omp linkage and lines for it
Old 03-30-03, 05:47 PM
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Originally posted by thorin
rb says their holly carb is "modified". and i have heard elsewhwre that you cant just go to the store and buy any old holly style carb and use it in your rotary. why is that? because holly carbs ARE cheap... especially other companies knockoffs therof.
Well let me see,
I have a 600 double pumper mechanical secondaries,

I have had it on my car for 3yrs,and have had NO problems,Its easy to rebuild,and easy to rejet,

I want to know why you think its so cheap,and what do you run.
Old 03-30-03, 06:06 PM
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Originally posted by SoRRoW
Well let me see,
I have a 600 double pumper mechanical secondaries,

I have had it on my car for 3yrs,and have had NO problems,Its easy to rebuild,and easy to rejet,

I want to know why you think its so cheap,and what do you run.
i sence hostility
Old 03-30-03, 09:26 PM
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easy tiger, i didnt mean they were cheap as in crappy... i meant cheap as in inexpensive.

okay, here's a holly style carb (im pretty sure its normal 4 barrel mount style)

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...%3D18%26s%3D35

a 625 cfm for 250$approx.

+ rb manifold: 205$

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=16464

=455$.

rb holley kit:
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=18045

=860$.

why is that?

I dont pretend to know anything about carbs, but id like to know where the extra 405$ does. surely not just the gaskets and aircleaner assembly.
Old 03-30-03, 10:16 PM
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I may be way off base here, but isn't 625 CFM way too much for a stock port 12A?
Old 03-31-03, 02:35 AM
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625 is more good for a BP
Old 03-31-03, 11:51 PM
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So what would you run on a peripheral port?
Old 04-01-03, 02:15 AM
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Peripheral port would work great with 2x 48 DCOE.High hp will be possible.Driveability will suffer.
Otherwise a fully modded 850cfm 48 IDA...expensive,but LOTS of fun !

Rixrotary :45 would work just fine,much easier to tune than a holley!
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