Carl and I wanna let everyone know we are officially open for business. Stocker rebuilds cost $150. Here's how it works...
-You send either him or me $150 plus S&H. We wait till the check clears, and begin work on the carb. All gaskets, checkballs and needles and seats are changed for new. The bits are all cleaned up, and the carb is reassembled.
You are responsible entirely for reinstallation, however after service tech support is only a keyboard away.

O.K.- Street Rod Modded Carb - the FUN stuff:
It costs $300 plus S&H, and this is what you get...

- A carb that I would put up against Yaws carb. To some that may be a bold statement, while to others they might just shrug and say, "Ehhh. So what?" But I'll even go so far as to say that we'll take the carb one step further than Yaw wanted to spend the time doing, and I believe we'll pay more attention and effort to flow dynamics. (He does'nt do anything to the airhorn, for example.)
The end result is a cleaned and modified stock carburetor with all emissions crap removed, rebuilt with a new gasket kit. It will breathe at least as well as Yaws carb, but probably better. Carl will be flow testing it in the future. More about that in threads to come.

This is some of what we'll do-
First we completely break down your carb - I mean completely. Booster venturis are removed and primary venturi sleeves are tapped out. The air horn gets the Foredom flex shaft (I'm a jeweler, so I've got some really cool tools for this stuff!) The idea is to remove all tabs, ledges and restrictions. It's an easy concept, really- you just have to imagine water has flown through and worn away those things and made everything smooth. I just do what makes sense, and take it to the limit that I can.

All emissions tubes will be permanently blocked off, unless otherwise requested. This means we pull out the metal nipples, and plug the holes with brass inserts or JB weld. (our choice) The dizzy advance vacuum tubes are retained.


Everything gets cleaned like new, and then the throttle body, main body and airhorn are reassembled and get bead blasted. The circuit holes get plugged, and the venturi sleeve holes get taped for this. Bead blasting puts a nice finish on the outside, and acts like a final 320 sanding on the inside. It's just fine enough of a surface for me to polish with the flex shaft again. So only the outside is left beaded. The inside is smooth.

The booster venturis need to have their support arms removed, and then there's some shaping of what's left into a textbook airfoil design (a step Yaw does not do). They are polished, also.

The primary venturi sleeves are put into my Sherline lathe (the same that Yaw uses) and I bore them out as far as they will go but still maintain useable foil shape. If you go too far, they'll be useless. Again, the insides are polished by hand with a flex shaft.

The throttle shafts are removed, and material is milled off where the butterflies are screwed on. This allows less restriction of flow. Low profile screws are used during reassembly, and the ends are crimped to ensure they'll never come loose on their own.

During linkage reassembly, only what is necessary for the carb to operate is reinstalled. This significantly slims it down and "decomplicates" things. Retaining the choke, as well as the vacuum secondary actuation is the owners choice. And we can offer "no choke" or "partial choke" as an option, and mechanical secondaries as an option to the vacuum box.
No choke just means we yank it all. I've run my Yaw (which I've further modded) with no choke for nearly two years now. I don't have problems even in the NY winter. If you feel you need a choke, I prefer to leave the lesser "partial choke", as this just means I leave the butterfly and some linkage in place, and you have to hold the choke open with the **** for it to work. It removes alot of crap, you still have your choke, and you can install easily any number of after market air filter options. But be forwarned, leaving that gigantic flap of metal at the top of the airhorn WILL impede flow!

The accelerator pump is modified by attaching an arm that gives a longer travel, and the volume is increased by simply adding more gasket material and longer screws. I feel it makes a huge difference in throttle responce throughout the entire range. The basic idea is that the stock AP does not continue to deliver any fuel shot when you are at partial throttle cruise, and want to nail it without letting off the accelerator as in down shifting. I had stumbled onto the idea as a remedy to the bog usually associated with converting vacuum secondaries to mechanical, but found that it increased the throttle responce so dramatically, I now concentrate on it as a great mod in and of itself.

The tops of the emulsion tubes will be tapped to accept Holley bleeds, and a handful will be sent with the carb to help you to truely dial right in on whatever tuning curve you desire.
Fuel jets will be supplied, too, of course.

The throttle body will get painted for a spiffy look-the colors we have not yet chosen. (Not going hunting for special requests on this.)

Each carb gets either my or Carls initials stamped on the throttle body, main body, and airhorn, along with a serial number. The serial number gets entered into a computer file with all the mods done, special requests, date, owner, ect. That means that after sales tech support will be available for the purchaser and will follow that carb even if it changes owners!

The options offered on our "Rod Modded" Nikkis will grow as Carl and I experiment and recieve feedback from purchasers. If your carb job is just a simple rebuild with all emissions mods kept in place, or an all out street rod mod, you'll get the same attention to detail and the same after service tech help.
Also, as we make new discoveries and developments, we will send tech "how-to" articals to all on our Emailing list who paid for mods. I also intend to bank my tuning articals and other findings on this site, and soon my own site which will either be run with Carl Rx7 or at least linked to his own site. This way, anyone with a Nikki carb can modify their carb to some extent. I believe most will find it a very satisfying experience, and they will look at their carbs and wonder what more potential is locked within.

I will be setting a return policy, and a "return finished service date" policy, as well. What this means is I will have a certain number of weeks to complete and send the carburetor back.
I have NOT DONE THIS YET- Sooo; I need to start high, and set policy for 12 weeks. Now I don't really think it would take 12 weeks even if a hurricane ripped through my house. But until I gain experience in customer relations and just plain reality of doing all this, I'll need patience from my customers.

The other part is that you have thirty days to decide you don't like it. But I'll need 60 days from the date of return to get you your money back!
Sound fair? -No? Well listen- this is the reality of covering your *** and making sure you don't **** people off. I want to be known as a man of my word- one who delivers what he promises.
Promising I'll be late, but I will come through is much better than either promising what I can not be certain of, or making no promises at all. (...Yes guys, your badges are coming- I promise!)
These conditions will certainly change for the better in the future.
I have four carbs started now. You send me your carb, I inspect it, and make sure it's good. What you get back MAY OR MAY NOT BE THE CARB YOU SENT - unless specially requested. This helps to expedite the process. If I only get a few orders a month, then I should be able to have one ready to go.
The work MAY BE DONE BY CARL OR MYSELF, unless specially requested. We are still sorting out how we're gonna split up the duty and the booty, keeping in mind that race carb work -which I feel is the biggest challenge (there's no "wiggle room"!) -is soon to be offered. Initially the first few modded carbs will probably be done by me, but rest assured, Carl and I will maintain consistancy. A carb done by him or by me will be the same carb. That attention to quality control and detail is the trade-off to splitting up the work load.

Things that you need for this carb to actually work...

A high pressure fuel pump- I use a Carter 7-14 pounder. It's a pain to install, though I don't know how it rates in installation compared to others.
I use a Holley 4 psi regulator. It works great, and is inexpensive enough.
The carb is happy at 2.25-3.75 psi.
And you need a fuel pressure gauge, too.

Direct inquiries to
SterlingCarb

 

when you start flow testing these with some numbers on paper let me know.

I wanted you to rebuild a carb and modify it in the past, its great you offer this as a service now.

Please p.m. when you get all set up, if the figures look nice I will take the modified setup, until then $300 could be a down payment on a side draft.

Good luck and keep me posted please.

 

Will they work with a Mallory Comp110 fuel pump??

I'll PM my request....y'all otter invest in Eastwood's powdercoat system so you can apply a truly bullet-proof finish to the carb bodies...

 

Listen you can trust Sterling to do a good job and keep in communication he rebuilt my carb, it runs great and I expect it to last forever thats how good a job it was. Just do a search if you don't take my word for it.

 

Eeeexcellent! I've been waiting for this post.

Sterling - What do ya think ya could do for us guys doomed to live in smog **** states? Your Street Rod Modded Carb sounds sweet but it clearly won't fly here in NJ. Obviously if there are any modifications to the carb it might not pass the emission tests at all but maybe there are some things that can be done to hedge our bet. Perhaps the SRMC without the removal of the emissions crap? What are your thoughts?

 

Thanks for the plug, Supraslinc.

Inittab, honestly I don't know what -if anything- can be done for you poor bastards! Whatever it is, it probably won't be as good an all out "Rod Modded" Nikki -too much **** has to be left.
But as states will surely follow one another in the years to come regarding auto smog restrictions, alternatives will have to be explored.
About the only thing I can think of right now would be the most work, and I would have to charge accordingly. I can concentrate efforts at keeping the carb emissions compliant by first modding it to an extent, and then de-tuning it until it's compliant again. Finding that point at which I can take the mods to the max but still detune it enough to pass emissions would take alot of testing.
Once I found that point, I would then need to automate the carb in some way so that you could switch from "smog **** compliant" to "Eat my hydrocarbons, bitch!" with the flip of a few switches.

It may sound to expensive or fantastic, but the same deal is on the list for an "economy mode" for later performance models. This would incorporate much of the same design conciderations. The performance carb could be switched to a 'fuel conserving, no ***** having' mode for those long trecks to Grandmas house. But you need some sort of control from inside the cockpit so you can switch in transit for the punk-in-a-Honda that smiled at you as he passed by!
I will attempt this design using emissions solenoids and valves that I strip from hi performance models.

Both the fuel conservation mode and the emissions compliant mode may end up to be the same. That would be great. I've long thought that the emissions compliant Rx-7 owners have been overlooked in the performance intake department, and from a business standpoint, it seems a viable market for someone who can come up with something that can make these folks happy. Unfortunately, willingness to spend my time experimenting is not where I have difficulties- it's the testing. I have no facility at all for testing that sort of thing. The carbs would be extra work, and so would warrant a higher price tag, but how can I gaurantee it will pass?!

Carl and I have talked for months about how we want to do this. One thing we immediately agreed on was the fact that neither of us expect to make any significant money on each carb we do. The money may or may not fund (or just help fund) our "rotary habits". Carl races, and I have the SterlingCharger to build and document.
But we've also both agreed that we need to give Rx-7 owners what THEY want and need. If we could build an emissions comliant hi performance Nikki, we would satisfy ALOT of people.

So, Inattab, what this long winded responce means is, "We hear ya, and we're workin' on it."

 

Why bother when you can just get a Weber.


























































J/k Sterling, sounds good.

 

Bob, good point. But whats the reason it wouldnt work on an emissions car? Can you elaborate on this so I can get an idea of whats up in NJ emissions testing? The carb itself shouldnt affect the sniff test if its running right, no matter if its modded or not.

 

Hey.... I ain't the carb expert here. But that's an interesting assessment. I just assumed that Mazda stuck all that so-called emissions crap on our carbs so our Rex's would pass the 'ol sniff test. See how much I know? ... lol. If your SRMC has all the emissions tubes blocked off and filled..... then what? You think it might be okay as long as all else is in good running order?

NJ inspection probably isn't as tough as say CA but I think it's close. For instance, I don't think the visual inspection has nearly as much weight as what actually comes out the pipe.

 

Well the supply air/vacuum to the emissions equiptment can be left alone, but still have added airflow. Now if a visual inspection is done by an expert he might find some funny stuff, but thats almost in the realm of impossible.

Oh and as an aside to all, there will be modded/ported intakes for sale soon also. Its all a package remember that. One "bolt on" might make some hp, but its the whole deal that really makes it zoom zoom zoom.

That includes the exhaust too BTW. Make the best that you can on that end.

 

]BOINK[

 

Does anything on the carb have anything to do with the ACV, air pump, or cat? I really havent followed the vacuum diagram yet.

AFAIK, here, it's all about the sniffer test, so just as long as a cat is on there, and the carb is just rejetted so that it's slightly lean, it should pass.

The only things covered in the visual are the PCV system, the Evaporative system, and thermostatic air thingy...

The PCV system is needed to get rid of the condensation anyway. The Evaporative system is the charcoal canister and one other hose to the carb, so that's simple enough to leave.

And it's easy enough to keep a stock air cleaner around...

Should be passable in VA... Worst comes to worst, people who have to deal with smog ***** should just keep stock replacement components around.

And if people can't keep those components around, then it's gotta be the Ben Franklin handshake. That ALWAYS passes.

Are some year carbs easier to modify than others? Are mainfold flow optimization plans in the works? Also, are you gonna supply extra jets to play with like Yaw does?

 

Pele, the carb only affects emissions mainly based on how its jetted like you said. Well later carbs are easier, Ill say that. Yes soon some flowed and modded manifolds will be availible to compliment the carbs. And jets will be availible for tuning.

 

As I understand it, the clusterfuck of solenoids is for richening the mixture at idle to ensure the proper fuel/exhaust mixture entering the catalytic abyss. There has to be a proper mixture of chemical components to help burn/convert hydrocarbons and oxides. Emissions compliant carbs are jetted to comply under load/RPM testing. But proper idle exhaust presents it's own seperate challenge. Yanking the rats nest keeps your car from being emissions compliant at idle.
Because the main circuit has no bearing (fuel jet size wise) to the idle circuit, and all that rats nest crap really is for the idle circuit, then maybe and emissions compliant ***-kicker carb is not such a far off idea.
It will definitely require detuning before testing, though.
But where I see the biggest obstical in creating an emissions compliant system is with the exhaust. In order for you to reap the benifits of a performance intake system, you simply MUST have a performance exhaust system. I don't run cats on my exhaust, and I'm not familiar with what's available as far as "performance" catalytic converters.

 

As it turns out, even a generic cat in a 2.5" size will flow enough to not present a sizeable restriction to the exhaust side of things. I had a real Random Technologies 2.5" 3-way cat at first and then used my UPS connections to get a generic 2.5" 3-way cat for $55, and they looked virtually the same. Just make sure its a "honeycomb" matrix and you'll be fine. The '80 RP streetport 12A running through that cat, an Edelbrock RPM muffler and then TWO 2" Flowmasters (and you would think that all of that would present some kind of flow restriction...), still kicked out 113 RWHP @ 7500rpm with a bonestock Nikki that hadn't been touched in three years after its rebuild. One of the above mentioned modded carbs would probably really wake up the beast and still pass. That combo passed emissions easily at idle, 75 PPM close on the HCs at 2500 rpm....

 

i have heard wonderful things about new exaust systems....like monza systems. i read an article that claimed that they cleaned up the emissions by something like 100% from stock to pass a new CA emmisions test. do you think a car with a moded carb and one of these exaust systems could do the trick?

 

As you can read by the previous posts in this thread, I'm not the guy to answer. I have much to learn regarding emmisions compliant exhaust systems.

 

hey sterling wassup. well i blew my street port 12a due to a fualty coolant and i build a drag car. I know a damn boinger but i am gonna seel it to build a beast. i have some intakes that are kinda rare here. you might want to look at. i have what i think is the oldest known intake for a 12a. it was on a twin distributor 12a. as for my supercharged dreams. they dissapeared i sold everything i had and said time for a big port and a bottle and then it blew so back to the drawing bored toying with a four rotor. i was wondering if you build my carbs and what the bill would be. they are kinda a rare carb so i have to find another once more maybe a nother pipe dream but if i sell the v8 car it will be a monster. ps have you ever seen the 4 rotor 13b they built at granny motor sports the guy sent me everything he had on it. any ways how long does it take to rebuild one. i may have one done to play with.

jr

 

12 weeks or less.
That's my "cover my ***" time limit, but I expect it would be about 6 weeks.
I'm getting more efficient at things, and I think turn around time will become less than that in the weeks ahead. But I'll always say "12 weeks". It's my policy, as I originally posted.

Anything can happen to set you back. For example, wenesday night I was turning a venturi on the lathe and there was so much porosity in the casting, I simply could'nt use it. I thought I'd coat it with JB to fill the holes, & keep it for myself for a later project, so I started to finish it on the lathe and the cuter nicked the inside and yanked it off the chuck. It got egg shaped, and I had to toss it.
No big deal cause I have more. But it's that kind of down time that sets you back a day. You go to plan the week out and slot wenesday for four hours of carb work, and then that happens.

Another time eater that I did'nt really anticipate - when I built carbs for myself, I never used to do things like sandblast them, or even clean them all that well...The grease and **** - yes, of course, but I mean now I'm more concerned with getting it super clean and perfect. I'm paying alot more attention to the details then I had on carbs I worked over for myself or for others for free. Paying customers are going to expect a level of finish and consistancy. They are'nt going to be happy unless it looks like a completely new unit.
It takes time to make these things spiffy looking!

I'm also still buying parts retail (sucks) for the carbs. I want them all to be consistant, so it's hard to track down retail parts (such as cap screws) that will be identical to the ones I can order in bulk whole sale. But these things have to be tested first to be sure they are what I want.

Rereading this, it looks like a bunch of excuses! But it's just me being honest. I'm just an average guy, and everyone who wants one of my carbs will have to understand that, that's all.

BTW, Carl is working on some REALLY COOL ****, y'all! I dunno if he wants me to say, so I gotta keep quiet about details, cept to say, "It's KOOOL!". Just keep yer eye on that guy!

 

KOOOL! I think is an understatement... that is if he actually told me what he's planning

 

Well, minor set backs aside (like it imploded during calibration last night ), she'll be ready to fire up again tomorrow for re-calibration, then the fun begins. You'll see it tomorrow Tom.

 

So when are you guys going to be ready to build me a IT legal carb?

 

Very soon

 

Ummmmm..... so what the h3ll is this thing you're work'n on? a mister-fusion?

 

Wait till I hit 88mph!